Author Topic: Brake caliper adjustment screw? (Read 6579 times)

scartail · « **on:** March 01, 2011, 10:05:24 AM »

Will a regular metric screw be okay to replace the caliper adjustment screw? Any special features needed? For a CB550K.

TIA.

Roach · « **Reply #1 on:** March 01, 2011, 11:02:15 AM »

yes you can aslong as you have the spring still and the bolt is the same length and grade

stueveone · « **Reply #2 on:** March 01, 2011, 12:48:24 PM »

Carefully notch out the end similar to the old one with a hacksaw or better yet dremel.

scartail · « **Reply #3 on:** March 02, 2011, 08:13:11 AM »

Sounds good. Thanks!

Frostyboy · « **Reply #4 on:** March 03, 2011, 04:09:52 PM »

You could of course get the right one for around $5+

http://www.davidsilverspares.co.uk/CB550K-1976-USA/part_70716/

mrrch · « **Reply #5 on:** March 03, 2011, 07:10:45 PM »

Better yet, just go to your local Honda dealer(if you have one)

754 · « **Reply #6 on:** March 03, 2011, 09:06:01 PM »

They are countersunk head, using wrong fastener will gouge up the swing bracket.

Myself I dont use them, just get in the way for removing tires, pita when yoy have 2 discs..

ev0lve · « **Reply #7 on:** March 03, 2011, 09:10:51 PM »

Had my calipers on backwards so had to have something I could get a wrench on. If yours aren't then the stock would be better looking but yes, any old right size bolt will do the trick. If you're going to notch the end you'll want it a few mm over 50.

754 · « **Reply #8 on:** March 03, 2011, 09:22:55 PM »

Alnost fprgot.. not only did I remove the screws, on my chopper, I cut off the threaded boss from the fork leg, then smoothed it off , before plating the lower legs..

scartail · « **Reply #9 on:** March 08, 2011, 04:24:29 PM »

Thanks for all the suggestions everyone.

There used to be a Honda dealer in my city, but no more. Then online 5$ for a bolt, and 10$ for the shipping... and the feeling of extra vaseline...

I'd rather bandaid it up for the time being.

Steve F · « **Reply #10 on:** March 08, 2011, 05:37:23 PM »

Some say you can do without, but I would think it would be a good idea to keep. The bolt is, among other things, keep the caliper/pad in near proximity with the rotor. Lets say that the pad has some wear on it, and for some reason or another, the caliper gets bumped or pushed in and as a result, this pushes the pad/piston into the caliper, leaving a gap between the rotor and the pad. The next time you go to grab the brake, you find that you have to pump it a few times to get the pad/piston back out to contact the rotor. If you kept the bolt in place and adjusted, this would prevent the caliper from moving and pushing the pad in.
Steve F

Kong · « **Reply #11 on:** March 09, 2011, 03:37:40 PM »

Take them off and throw them away - at best they provide fixed adjustment of a part that should be allowed to float free. The only mystery about that part is why it is even there in the first place. When its adjusted perfectly it accomplishes nothing that would not happen if it were not there at all, and when its out of adjustment it causes uneven brake pad wear. Toss it.

Steve F · « **Reply #12 on:** March 09, 2011, 04:56:39 PM »

Quote from: Kong on March 09, 2011, 03:37:40 PM

Take them off and throw them away - at best they provide fixed adjustment of a part that should be allowed to float free. The only mystery about that part is why it is even there in the first place. When its adjusted perfectly it accomplishes nothing that would not happen if it were not there at all, and when its out of adjustment it causes uneven brake pad wear. Toss it.

Read the previous post....

Kong · « **Reply #13 on:** March 09, 2011, 05:04:14 PM »

I did read the previous post, and dam near fell on the floor laughing.

Tintop · « **Reply #14 on:** March 09, 2011, 06:03:46 PM »

Quote from: Steve F on March 08, 2011, 05:37:23 PM

Some say you can do without, but I would think it would be a good idea to keep. The bolt is, among other things, keep the caliper/pad in near proximity with the rotor. Lets say that the pad has some wear on it, and for some reason or another, the caliper gets bumped or pushed in and as a result, this pushes the pad/piston into the caliper, leaving a gap between the rotor and the pad. The next time you go to grab the brake, you find that you have to pump it a few times to get the pad/piston back out to contact the rotor. If you kept the bolt in place and adjusted, this would prevent the caliper from moving and pushing the pad in.
Steve F

Lots of vintage racers run without the adjusters. As 754 pointed out, they make it a PITA to remove the wheel with dual disks; and most racers run duals. An example Turboguzzi had was in racing. If the bike gets a head shake on a high speed straight, that can be enough to push the puck back. And yes you will have to pump the brakes before the next corner.

DavePhipps · « **Reply #15 on:** March 09, 2011, 06:18:31 PM »

I'm a bit confused. On my non floating anything FZR600 brakes there is no adjuster. when my pads were halfway worn there still wasn't much of a gap between pad and rotor. I also never had to pump the brakes a few times to get them working again.
Wy would this be?
I'm a bit loopy on cold medicine so I might be missing something obvious.

754 · « **Reply #16 on:** March 09, 2011, 08:24:55 PM »

If your brake is dragging a bit, and you have to push it around or run out of gas, kick the caliper in with your heel or soft hammer.. Cant do that with the adjuster there, you have to unbolt it..

Consider this.. those brakes were the dawn of Japanese disc brakes.. the collective minds at Honda were pretty smart, and did a good job.. but its a design NO ONE uses or that anyone ever copied.. stone age stuff..really..

MCRider · « **Reply #17 on:** March 09, 2011, 08:36:55 PM »

Quote from: DavePhipps on March 09, 2011, 06:18:31 PM

I'm a bit confused. On my non floating anything FZR600 brakes there is no adjuster. when my pads were halfway worn there still wasn't much of a gap between pad and rotor. I also never had to pump the brakes a few times to get them working again.
Wy would this be?
I'm a bit loopy on cold medicine so I might be missing something obvious.

I think on the FZR, a well respected sport bike, all four pistons/pads per caliper are "live" meaning driven by fluid and all 4 retract on their own. Consequently they are self adjusting. On our CBs there are 2 pads true, but only one of the pair is live, consequently the dead pad must be adjusted as it wears.

TwoTired · « **Reply #18 on:** March 09, 2011, 10:03:41 PM »

Quote from: DavePhipps on March 09, 2011, 06:18:31 PM

I'm a bit confused. On my non floating anything FZR600 brakes there is no adjuster. when my pads were halfway worn there still wasn't much of a gap between pad and rotor. I also never had to pump the brakes a few times to get them working again.

I don't know much about the FZR. But, I have yet to find a disc brake where the pads or caliper weren't allowed to float or track the rotor plane in some way. There are different way to do it.

For the SOHC4, the spring on the adjuster pushes the stationary pad away from the rotor .006 inch. The square section seal in the caliper withdraws the piston and piston side pad about .012 inch. This allows the rotor to spin free of the rotor when the lever is released.
Without the spring and adjuster, the brake will always have more drag and wear than without, provided the caliper piston and seal are in proper working order.

Those who don't understand how the the system is supposed to work, remove parts whose function they don't understand.

Race bikes can replace pads are frequently as necessary between races. They don't need no stinkin' longevity. Things that may be appropriate for a race bike aren't necessarily good for a street bike. In some cases, those same things are outright bad.

If your brake is dragging, you surely can kick it free even with the adjuster in place. But, I would argue that such an occurrence warrants more brake attention than just kicking it.

Cheers,

fastbroshi · « **Reply #19 on:** March 09, 2011, 10:11:13 PM »

I'm pretty sure the FZR rotors are floating, held by rivets to their carriers.

754 · « **Reply #20 on:** March 10, 2011, 09:24:39 AM »

So now you can decide ..
if 12 thou clearance from pad retracting, is too much, use the stock adjuster, and cut that in half (while in proper adjustment)
Now if you want easier tirechanging on dual disc, or just dont want the extra harware, leave em off..
I do know this.. either way works..

TwoTired · « **Reply #21 on:** March 10, 2011, 10:22:45 AM »

Quote from: 754 on March 10, 2011, 09:24:39 AM

if 12 thou clearance from pad retracting, is too much, use the stock adjuster, and cut that in half (while in proper adjustment)

Just for clarification. Upon brake release, the spring on the adjuster pushes the caliper assembly to the right .006. The caliper seal retracts the piston .012, which leaves a .006 clearance on each side the rotor, for no drag. Without the adjuster, the caliper wanders from right to left as the rotor alternately contacts the pads, over bumps, in turns, etc.

Quote from: 754 on March 10, 2011, 09:24:39 AM

Now if you want easier tire changing on dual disc, or just don't want the extra hardware, leave em off..

I don't believe the front axle can reliably be registered laterally with zero tolerance upon reassembly after a tire change. Lateral de-registration would affect the disk to rotor clearance, necessitating a readjustment of the caliper clearance adjuster. So, if you do any planning ahead in your work flow, you can loosen the jam nut on the adjuster to give extra clearance between pads for the rotor, making re-install easier. After wheel install, then re-adjust inside caliper pad clearance and lock down the nut. A couple strokes of the brake lever should get the pads positioned for normal riding.

Quote from: 754 on March 10, 2011, 09:24:39 AM

I do know this.. either way works..

Yes, either way works. But, I think the way it was designed to work is better for street use. Perhaps the weight saved (an ounce?) without the adjuster, spring and locknut is better for racing. But, I'd like to see that demonstrated with differential lap times, before and after the change over.

Cheers,

754 · « **Reply #22 on:** March 10, 2011, 10:35:51 AM »

why not just take the plunge, and finally get the shirts made.

"STOCK is BEST, F@#K the rest"

My shirt says,

STOCK bikes are for the mASSes, not for Me!"

DavePhipps · « **Reply #23 on:** March 10, 2011, 11:01:38 AM »

Quote from: MCRider on March 09, 2011, 08:36:55 PM

Quote from: DavePhipps on March 09, 2011, 06:18:31 PM
I'm a bit confused. On my non floating anything FZR600 brakes there is no adjuster. when my pads were halfway worn there still wasn't much of a gap between pad and rotor. I also never had to pump the brakes a few times to get them working again.
Wy would this be?
I'm a bit loopy on cold medicine so I might be missing something obvious.
I think on the FZR, a well respected sport bike, all four pistons/pads per caliper are "live" meaning driven by fluid and all 4 retract on their own. Consequently they are self adjusting. On our CBs there are 2 pads true, but only one of the pair is live, consequently the dead pad must be adjusted as it wears.

Without any arguing, I would say this make the most sense.
Do I like the stock design, not much. There are better technologies out there that can be adapted to our bikes. If you want stock, fine, if not that's fine too. I was just more concerned with why it is like it is, and how it works.

TwoTired · « **Reply #24 on:** March 10, 2011, 11:26:14 AM »

Quote from: 754 on March 10, 2011, 10:35:51 AM

why not just take the plunge, and finally get the shirts made.

"STOCK is BEST, F@#K the rest"

My shirt says,

STOCK bikes are for the mASSes, not for Me!"

I thought your shirt idea was pretty good. So, I researched and found these below.

But, I have to wonder why you don't mount your engine inverted? Doing it the stock way just makes you part of the mASSes, doesn't it?
For that matter, using ANY parts in a stock fashion, groups you right into those mASSes, doesn't it?

Cheers,

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Author Topic: Brake caliper adjustment screw? (Read 6579 times)