Topic: How effective is POR-15 really?

[Bankerdanny]

I pulled the tank off of my recently accquired (as in 2 days ago) '77 CB550k.

7050 original miles, but sitting since about 1981 (I think the tires are still the originals).

It had about 2/3 of a tank of gas in it, which I transferred to a plastic container. What I can see in the tank appears to be varnish/gunk. Initially I thought I could rust, I used a blade to scrape some of the material off right inside the opening, and shows clean metal underneith.

I suspect that I can get away with a good cleaning and not have to seal the tank and I am looking for some thoughts as to what to use to do this.

Thanks.

[bollingball]

Not a good idea with the blade now the liner is compromised make sure you dry it super good as soon asap and reseal around scrape marks I understand wanting to look at it. whats a guy guna do.

[Hush]

If you follow the steps carefully of the POR-15 it works great, the acid stuff they supply that removes most of the rust scale does a really good job.
I used it on my son's CBR400RR tank and even though I'd never sen the stuff before I was pleasently surprised by the results and if I can do it then anyone can.
The final result was a grey lining in the tank that looks like plastic, you need to block the gas tap hole and make a large plug (I used a block of styrene and carved it) for the gas cap hole so you can shake the tank and move it about without losing the contents once you start the process.

[Bankerdanny]

Not a good idea with the blade now the liner is compromised make sure you dry it super good as soon asap and reseal around scrape marks I understand wanting to look at it. whats a guy guna do.

The tank is still as it came from the factory, no line yet.

[Ernest T]

You may not need the sealer, clean it first and see what the tank looks like.

[lrutt]

buy a couple gallons of gunk carb cleaner and pour in there. Let it sit on one side then the other. When done, pour it out. cleans tanks right up. I did that with a 53 MG that had a ton of crap in the tank. Only attacks the varnish and stuff though, not rust.

[Really?]

If you do POR15, do it right the first time.  Getting that stuff out to do it again is a PITA.  Actually the whole process is a PITA.

Expect a week or two of down time of you wanna do it right.  It is not a one day project!  Not for me anyway.

Does it work when done right?  Yup!  Will it seal pinholes?  Yup!  When you finish and it is done right will you have a hard on?  I dunno but I had one!

[Bankerdanny]

I am confident that the tank is solid with no pin holes hidden by varnish.

The bike must have been in climate controlled storage as there is very little surface rust on the chrome.

I may try some basic gunk first to see what I get. The only problem is that the filler is so small you don't see much of the tank.

I appreciate everybody's feedback though.

Danny

[Bob Wessner]

Particularly hard part of the tank interior to inspect is the top. Pick-up one of those cheap dental mirrors at the Rx store that has an LED light built in. Works pretty well and comes in handy for other tight spot inspections also. Works best in an at least slightly darkened garage/shop.

[Bankerdanny]

Good idea Bob, thanks!

[gnarlycharlie4u]

what about other tank sealants? anyone ever tried red-kote?

[fmctm1sw]

Coated a tank with a POR-15 kit about 2 years ago.  No problems to report...

[d3buttz]

i cant stress how well this stuff works. it saved my fiberglass tank.
http://www.kbs-coatings.com/cycle-tank-sealer-kit.html
Take your time with the prep with any sealer you use and good luck!

[Bankerdanny]

Thanks D3, they have a local supplier so I don't have to use mail order for that product.

[vames]

I have a 350f tank that was boiled out and red-kote sealed by a radiator shop. so far so good 9 month later.

[BeSeeingYou]

If the tank is not compromised by corrosion there is not need of a liner.

[Scott S]

If the tank is not compromised by corrosion there is not need of a liner.

 I agree. Try this first....

 Buy a bottle of The Works toilet bowl cleaner from the grocery store; about $2. Pick up an .89 box of baking soda while you're there. Find a piece of heavy chain, maybe a couple of bucks at the hardware store.
  Pour in The Works, add chain and plug up openings. I use a freeze plug for the gas cap and cut up some scrap rubber for the petcock hole. re-use the stock petcock screws. Agitate, shake, rattle, roll.

  Dump out The Works and the chain, rinse with water from the garden hose. Add water...maybe 1/2-2/3 tank....and about half a box of baking soda. Agitate again. This neutralizes the acid from The Works. Rinse again with plain water and dry thoroughly. I use the sun, my air compressor...even a little denatured alcohol will help evaporate the water.
 Once dry, add a few ounces of Marvel Mystery Oil and coat the inside. This will keep it from flash rusting until you put gas in it.

 All these items combined are less than the cost of the POR15 kit and you can re-use them over and over, minus the cost of about $3 worth of toilet bowl cleaner and baking soda for the next time. It's worked great for me on multiple tanks and if there's a hole, you will find it.

[Bankerdanny]

I had figured that I wouldn't seal the tank, just clean it. This is my project for Saturday (and probably Sunday).

[nhodges]

+1  on the KBS system

It worked great on my tank, so well my brother ordered some too.

Just make sure to follow the steps and really give the tank time to dry.  Also make a good plug for the gas cap hole, bc you really want to be able to shake things around.  I raped duct tape around the bottom of a plastic cup; it made a good plug and with a clear bottom I could see the fluids moving around in the tank. 

[70cbk0]

I used POR on my superhawk tank, It IS a bit of work, but mine turned out great. Heard lots of problems with Kreem.

[Bankerdanny]

If the tank is not compromised by corrosion there is not need of a liner.

 I agree. Try this first....

 Buy a bottle of The Works toilet bowl cleaner from the grocery store; about $2. Pick up an .89 box of baking soda while you're there. Find a piece of heavy chain, maybe a couple of bucks at the hardware store.
  Pour in The Works, add chain and plug up openings. I use a freeze plug for the gas cap and cut up some scrap rubber for the petcock hole. re-use the stock petcock screws. Agitate, shake, rattle, roll.

  Dump out The Works and the chain, rinse with water from the garden hose. Add water...maybe 1/2-2/3 tank....and about half a box of baking soda. Agitate again. This neutralizes the acid from The Works. Rinse again with plain water and dry thoroughly. I use the sun, my air compressor...even a little denatured alcohol will help evaporate the water.
 Once dry, add a few ounces of Marvel Mystery Oil and coat the inside. This will keep it from flash rusting until you put gas in it.

 All these items combined are less than the cost of the POR15 kit and you can re-use them over and over, minus the cost of about $3 worth of toilet bowl cleaner and baking soda for the next time. It's worked great for me on multiple tanks and if there's a hole, you will find it.

Scott, you're right, The Works cleaned the varnish right out of the tank.

[Gaither]

Don't you just love happy endings!!!

[Bankerdanny]

Yes I do.

[swellguy]

I recently read on a board about who was rebuilding his bike. Once the frame was stripped down, he said he covered it in POR-15 then Rustoleum. Said it was tougher than powdercoat.

I've never worked with the stuff. Could you paint on POR-15?

[Really?]

From what I recall the answer is yes.  But you might want to look at there site for details.

[seanbarney41]

I recently read on a board about who was rebuilding his bike. Once the frame was stripped down, he said he covered it in POR-15 then Rustoleum. Said it was tougher than powdercoat.

I've never worked with the stuff. Could you paint on POR-15?

I have used this stuff a lot with old cars, and yes, it is very tough, possibly tougher than powdercoat...but you have to follow the directions implicitly!...and there are lots of them!  Very important to prep the surface...absolutely no oil contamination...a slightly to very "toothy" surface is better than a smooth one for good adhesion.  It is tricky and messy to spray, easier to brush on.  If it drys on your skin, uh oh, I've seen tattoes that don't last as long!  Also there are special instructions for painting over it and it is not uv resistant, appearance will degrade but not the coating itself.  Basically, it is a pain in the a. to use properly, but very effective for certain applications...also very $$$$.