Topic: 1972 CL350 Ground up Restoration

[Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er]

Derek,

I just removed my rotor. My starter hasn't worked for #$%* for quite some time. It would catch, not catch, or catch and release like your's. I expected it was the rollers, springs, and caps like you guys suspected so I bought the complete set. I used my air impact wrench and rotor puller tool like you have pictured. GET ONE OF EACH! Piece of cake dude. Hopefully the threads on the tool will work with your 750s also. I was sursprised at what I found when it came off. Expect the unexpected.

First thing I noticed: One of the 3 screws that holds the starter clutch to the rotor had broken! How the hell did that happen!!



The whole starter clutch was loose. Good thing those g#ddamned dimples that we all hate to have to drill out were there or I'd had a mess somewhere on the road. The other 2 screws stayed in place but were loose at the threads. It was just a matter of time before all hell broke loose. Rollers, etc looked good but it never hurts to replace those pieces if you have it apart.

Next thing I noticed was the damage that floating screw head had done to the gear. It wouldn't affect anything however.



I grabbed my 78 K gear to compare. That's when I noticed the surface area where the rollers grab. My original had quite the flat spots worn into it. I didn't really notice this visually but rather when I ran my fingers around the surface. I believe this is an issue also. The 78 gear is in better shape  so i'll just use that one. Compare the 2 gears and you can see the damage the screw head did. The surface where the rollers engage can't really be seen in a picture.










 

[MCRider]

While I don't know all the forensic details of what happens when and how it happens, I do know that once the starter starts to slip, and I mean the first time it slips, one should cease using it or eveything else will self destruct over time.

That will limit the damage to the gang oif 3 only. And BTW, there often is no noticable wear on the rollers. But if they are slipping, they are shot. That's the clue.

Or so I think. OCICBW

[seaweb11]

any one have a photo of said rollers?

[MCRider]

any one have a photo of said rollers?

Here dey is:

thumb for perspective

spring goes inside the cap as above.

These are the 750 parts. Roller dimension is 15x13mm. I looked up a CL350K3 and the roller is 10.2x11.5mm, so they are a little smaller, but its the same design.

[seaweb11]

Thanks, now I just need to get the dam bolt off the rotor

[MCRider]

Thanks, now I just need to get the dam bolt off the rotor

Yes that is the hard part. Sometimes putting it in 5th gear, and having someone stand on the brake will get the bolt off. Then you have to pull the rotor.

I believe you mentioned an axle will pull the rotor. That is often correct, but keep a feel for the threads of the axle giving up. They are not hardened and may not be up to the job. Tighten it, tap the end of it, tighten 1/4 more, tap again, etc.

[seaweb11]

Thanks, got that off now. Borrowed an impact wrench from a friend, now on to the pulling

[seaweb11]

So you screw in the bolt to the rotor to get it out, and now I'm back to the spinning rotor issue again?  I quit for today!

[MCRider]

So you screw in the bolt to the rotor to get it out, and now I'm back to the spinning rotor issue again?  I quit for today!

If the chain's still on it, put it in gear, 5th is best, and have somepne hold the brake.

That should hold it.

[seaweb11]

I felt like I was playing "twister today"

[MCRider]

I felt like I was playing "twister today"

If you're by yourself it could be difficult. Maybe crank the adjuster up aggressivley would do it.

[seaweb11]

Still working on rotor, ordered proper tool, waiting on a friend

In the mean time, I'm still struggling with the oil filter. I removed the C clip and from what I remember the cap should just come off. Mines stuck? I pulled up a photo of my build on this bike and when you zoom in, there seems to be something inside the cap....a bolt?  I don't have one in there now? I have done a ton of research here and on the twins site, one pdf showed a 6mm bolt ...and I keep coming back to (The cap won't pull off?.)

I realize there is a special tool to remove the entire thing and I do have it, but I'm not in yet.

[seaweb11]

Every once in a while the gods smile at fortitude.

Just walked back into garage for the 15th time today to try something new. Thought I would poke into the oil cap with something long and threaded and see what happened.....
The long skinny bolt that holds the air filters on was sitting right there so I give it a whirl.

This bolt Just happens to be the exact thread size on a threaded back side of the cap!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Pull and remove   That should be in my owners manual
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[seaweb11]

Just got the rotor off. 

It was said that you could use the rear axle to remove the rotor. No other explanations were ever found in my online searches.
So here is how I overcame my problem.

I left one of the axle spacers on the shaft and spent an hour on and off today just whacking the spacer as a weight against the end of the axle.
Finally it gave up and slid off. Thought I would include a photo for the next person who wants to figure this out.

Notice how 2 of the 3 main screws were very loose, but not broken thank god.  Should I use a locktight on these on reassembly?
Manuals suck!

[cleveland]

Very nice!

[seaweb11]

Last ride of the season last year one of the shims that go between the exhaust and manifold fell off.  Loose exhaust bolt
Any one have a spare?

[chickenman_26]

Last ride of the season last year one of the shims that go between the exhaust and manifold fell off.  Loose exhaust bolt
Any one have a spare?

Don't you have any left from your donor bikes? I might have saved some from my resto. I'll have a look and get back to you.
I just noticed this thread as it got bumped up from 2006. And I noticed the early confusion regarding paint colors. Your wife wanted '73 gold. There never was a '73 gold. Your paint job is gorgeous, and the bike looks great, but that paint scheme is for a '72 Candy Panther Gold. Your bike is a '73 CL350 K5, not a '72, which is a K4. The original red/white paint scheme was correct. Doesn't matter, really. But I thought you'd like to know, because some parts of the bike are unique to the '73. Keep that in mind when buying replacement parts.

Stu

[seaweb11]

Thanks for having a look for me.

[chickenman_26]

Thanks for having a look for me.

Is this the part you need?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NOS-Honda-CB350-CL350-XL175-XL250-Exhaust-Pipe-Joint-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem20afbc6b9dQQitemZ140387314589QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

[seaweb11]

Yes. I guess I should just buy that one.