Topic: Green Hornet CB 550/650 # Some pics of my trip to Scotland with SOHC4 Honda

[RAFster122s]

The bike looks great.

I saw someone had made front mounts for the tank on an eccentric mount. They didn't use rubber mounts but a plastic circular mount with the old mount post at the top of the disc circle. While the fuel would have a bit more foaming as a result, it shouldn't be a problem. Do you have the dense foam tank insulator from the CX500? I recommend you retain it if you do.

Hope you are having fun with your build.

David

[Oette]

Thank you.

I'll keep the line and the rubber mounts, cause I am aiming for a non linear line of tank and seat.
I don't own these insulators but there is quite much room between the motor and the tank compared to stock, so I assume that foaming is not such a serious problem.

Regards

[Godffery]

To improve the braking power and response, I shot a Nissin radial master cylinder from eBay. It's from a GSXR 750 K6 and has a piston diametre of 19mm.

So tell me, what do you think? Any experiences on using modern master cylinders?

Oette

A 19 mm master cylinder is very large, when coupled to twin 38 mm caliper pistons. It will have a very stiff feel to the lever. The stock 14 mm MC works well with the 38 mm calipers, IMHO.

Are you sure? We have a forum for Sohc4 in Germany, too. They hardly recommend using at least the master cylinder of the GL 1000. As far as I know it has a diametre of 17,5 mm, so 19 mm is not far. Plus, I wanted to have a hard feedback on the brake.

Cross drilling will come next winter.

The Radial has a much larger bore because it uses a shorter stroke.
I have used a Radial Master on a few of my builds with excellent results :
http://www.vinmoto.org/gallery/v/VinMoto-Garage/album03/Godfferys-Garage-123/Cafe+Overkill/DSC_9904.JPG.html

[Bankerdanny]

Randall 'Randakk" Washington, GL1000 guru (www.randakks.com), sells a replacement master for the GL1000 that uses a modern Nissin 5/8" (15.8mm) piston.

He says the piston on the original GL1000 master is too large and results in to hard of a lever feel relative to the braking force.

[Oette]

To improve the braking power and response, I shot a Nissin radial master cylinder from eBay. It's from a GSXR 750 K6 and has a piston diametre of 19mm.

So tell me, what do you think? Any experiences on using modern master cylinders?

Oette

A 19 mm master cylinder is very large, when coupled to twin 38 mm caliper pistons. It will have a very stiff feel to the lever. The stock 14 mm MC works well with the 38 mm calipers, IMHO.

Are you sure? We have a forum for Sohc4 in Germany, too. They hardly recommend using at least the master cylinder of the GL 1000. As far as I know it has a diametre of 17,5 mm, so 19 mm is not far. Plus, I wanted to have a hard feedback on the brake.

Cross drilling will come next winter.

The Radial has a much larger bore because it uses a shorter stroke.
I have used a Radial Master on a few of my builds with excellent results :
http://www.vinmoto.org/gallery/v/VinMoto-Garage/album03/Godfferys-Garage-123/Cafe+Overkill/DSC_9904.JPG.html

Godferry,

please tell me more about your setup. Since some parties are for, others against that MC, I want to know more technical specs about the radial MCs you used on your bikes, especially the 550.

Is it 19mm too?

[Godffery]

The one I used was a NISSIN RADIAL Master - 19mm 656G
It worked great with the twin disc using stock Calipers rebuilt with Phenolic Pistons.

The lever action did not feel stiff at all.

[RAFster122s]

The insulating pad is a dense foam sheet beneath the tank above the tunnel/frame.

The mounts on the tank may be a  different width causing the issue for the mount on the 550 frame. You may be able to extend the mount posts with a section of pipe of the proper diameter that will fit the rubber mounts.

David

[Oette]

The one I used was a NISSIN RADIAL Master - 19mm 656G
It worked great with the twin disc using stock Calipers rebuilt with Phenolic Pistons.

The lever action did not feel stiff at all.

Thank you. That's exactly what I wanted to hear ;-)

The insulating pad is a dense foam sheet beneath the tank above the tunnel/frame.

The mounts on the tank may be a  different width causing the issue for the mount on the 550 frame. You may be able to extend the mount posts with a section of pipe of the proper diameter that will fit the rubber mounts.

David

I know about this, because that is the reason I cut off the old brackets and welded new ones into the right place.

[scottly]

The Radial has a much larger bore because it uses a shorter stroke.
I have used a Radial Master on a few of my builds with excellent results :
http://www.vinmoto.org/gallery/v/VinMoto-Garage/album03/Godfferys-Garage-123/Cafe+Overkill/DSC_9904.JPG.html

If you mean the Radial MC has a shorter piston stroke for a full stroke of the hand lever, compared to a stock 14mm MC, then it would imply more leverage in the lever itself. What are the specs of the caliper pistons the 19mm MC was originally fit to?
I have run twin 38mm calipers with a 14mm MC, and the later 42.8mm (1-11/16")calipers as well, though that is the limit IMHO. Kawasaki 550s used twin 1-11/16" calipers with an 5/8" MC. 

[Oette]

So here is the next problem. I tried different methods to get the dust/oil seal into the rear wheel's hub. Finally the seal didn't make it and was bent.

Please give me a tip to get the new one into the wheel. It measures 34x55x9 as mentioned in the service manual.

[Godffery]

The Radial has a much larger bore because it uses a shorter stroke.
I have used a Radial Master on a few of my builds with excellent results :
http://www.vinmoto.org/gallery/v/VinMoto-Garage/album03/Godfferys-Garage-123/Cafe+Overkill/DSC_9904.JPG.html

If you mean the Radial MC has a shorter piston stroke for a full stroke of the hand lever, compared to a stock 14mm MC, then it would imply more leverage in the lever itself. What are the specs of the caliper pistons the 19mm MC was originally fit to?
I have run twin 38mm calipers with a 14mm MC, and the later 42.8mm (1-11/16")calipers as well, though that is the limit IMHO. Kawasaki 550s used twin 1-11/16" calipers with an 5/8" MC.

The handle on the Radial masters are leveraged much differently then the standard MC,  so you can't use the same bore size comparison's in this application.

[Godffery]

So here is the next problem. I tried different methods to get the dust/oil seal into the rear wheel's hub. Finally the seal didn't make it and was bent.

Please give me a tip to get the new one into the wheel. It measures 34x55x9 as mentioned in the service manual.

First you want to make sure there is no burs on the leading edge of the seal seat (the hole it's going in) then pick a socket out of your tool box that fits the O.D. of the seal, (in your case it should be "about" 55mm) then you can use the socket to gently drive the seal in, just watch your progress to be sure it is going evenly.  Sometimes if the seal seem particularly tight, you can use a little SPIT to lube it up some but don't use any grease or oil; it could cause the seal to move during use.

[Oette]

Just a few days to the wedding. Valves polished, head rebuilt, valves adjusted...

Only a few o-rings and screws are missing, but that problem is going to be fixed soon!

[SOHC4 Cafe Racer Fan]

Freakin' sweet!

[Oette]

Wedding is earlier than I thought.
Today the bike saw first daylight and the motor went into the frame.







I can't wait for it to be finished! It looks awesome right now, at least in my opinion.

[RAFster122s]

She is going to look great when you have her ready to ride. Congratulations on the successful union/reunion of frame and motor.

[strynboen]

gute alte kreidler rmc..they koste more then my 550 in denmark

[Oette]

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bT0gxKkvzbA/UY6cHz6PwOI/AAAAAAAAAtc/1R88pYo1na0/s1600/20130511_210127.jpgttp://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bT0gxKkvzbA/UY6cHz6PwOI/AAAAAAAAAtc/1R88pYo1na0/s1600/20130511_210127.jpg author=strynboen link=topic=86356.msg1375668#msg1375668 date=1368294807]
gute alte kreidler rmc..they koste more then my 550 in denmark

I'm thinking about selling the Kreidler, there is no more room for it and when the bike is finished, I probably won't ride get anymore...

But why didn't someone remind me of how stupid it looks to sit on a bike small like the 550 :-D with me being about 1,90 m tall ? I thought it wouldn't look so bad but this pic made my day :-D :-D

[RAFster122s]

Oette,  it will not matter while it brings a smile to your face. Besides, you will burn less fuel/petrol and that should please your wallet at refueling.

[Godffery]

Actually, it looks like Rear-sets are in order.

[strynboen]

it vill help when the seat are "polsteret" and rice at bit..think rear sets will make it vorse..many builds back to normal..after some rides..yours legs gets kramps with rearsets..otherwise bay a cbx 1000..they are for tall persons..vith shoe in 46-47 numbers..lot of place vith no generator at end of engine

[Syscrush]

Scoot back 1" on the seat, put your feet where they belong on the pegs (up on the balls of your feet), and bend your arms a bit so you're leaning forward a bit more, and with gear on you'll look like a perfect fit on that bike.

[Bankerdanny]

You and I are about the same size. I found that for longer trips on the road, particularly with clip-ons or cafe bars it is more comfortable to put your feet back on the passenger pegs.

Rearsets can be good, but you have to be careful about how high they are. Like Strynboen says, they can be very uncomfortable on the knees.

[Oette]

So, I made it to the final assembling of frame and wheels.
Every bolt is checked, fastened and secured. Most bolts are replaced by stainless ones (except all motor bolts and nuts, front and rear brake bolts), chain is mounted, oil-pressure switch and idle switch are installed, generator is placed aaaand....

I found this retro bicycle chain protector in my local store, which I thought could be a good option for my bike with some minor changes.
The price of 12 $ just underlined my plans.

So here it is:



It's quite a straight fit



To have a lighter and sportier look, I shortened it like this





There are only the appropriate mountings to manufacture, but that's a minor problem...

[Oette]

Hey Guys,

let me tell you about the latest progress.

-footpegs welded and painted
-all cables are at their place
-electrical work is nearly finished
-the right kickstarter has been installed
-the speedo's hall sensor is placed at the front wheel

Shot some pics for my personal album, too.

By the way, which is the correct order for the two wires soldered to the magnetic switch? I left one connected to the switch but it broke, so I don't know the right order anymore.

Is it exactly the order shown in the wiring diagram? With the connections oriented to the bottom, the left one would be the yellow/red one, the right one the black one.