Author Topic: WTF Cam Chain Tensioner  (Read 4714 times)

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Offline theslayedsaint

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Re: WTF Cam Chain Tensioner
« Reply #25 on: March 26, 2016, 12:52:10 PM »
Pull the engine and found that even my 200 mile engine had extreme chipping and wearing on the tensioner wheels.. 
1974 CB750 custom build cafe racer
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Offline madmtnmotors

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Re: WTF Cam Chain Tensioner
« Reply #26 on: March 26, 2016, 01:50:18 PM »
Pull the engine and found that even my 200 mile engine had extreme chipping and wearing on the tensioner wheels.. 


It was a very small reward for me when I discovered the same. It took a lot of soul searching for me to decide to tear down a newly assembled (and perfectly running) motor. I spent at least a couple days considering leaving it as it was, throwing caution to the wind, but in the end I know I made the right choice to replace these components. I just got my re-newly assembled engine fired up yesterday.  8)
TAMTF...


Wilbur



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Offline ekpent

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Re: WTF Cam Chain Tensioner
« Reply #27 on: March 26, 2016, 01:54:33 PM »
 Sad as it is to say I am glad there was something wrong with it that you could verify. Wonder how many more who don't have a clue. At least the seller is trying to reach out to buyers about the problem but how many other sellers are there peddling that same part,Hmm.

Offline HondaMan

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Re: WTF Cam Chain Tensioner
« Reply #28 on: March 26, 2016, 02:30:20 PM »
Sad as it is to say I am glad there was something wrong with it that you could verify. Wonder how many more who don't have a clue. At least the seller is trying to reach out to buyers about the problem but how many other sellers are there peddling that same part,Hmm.

Just to add to the confusion about these parts: there are 2 "generic" tensioner kits (parts) out there, besides the Honda parts. The Taiwan type is one, the "Made in Japan" label is on the other, and then the Honda parts. I have engines out there, since 2012, with all 3 types (but no problems in any that I know about).

Always remember, when working with the tensioner parts, to make sure of 2 things: first, make sure the bearing inside the larger roller spins effortlessly. Second, make sure the swinging pivot arm that mounts over it, which has a square notch punched out in one position, is slick, smooth, and pivots freely. This seldom happens, even with Honda's parts, because the sheet metal parts deform when punched. The Honda ones appear to be more "tumbled" or "finished" than the others and have less drag at this notch, but still some: file the drag away and make sure the parts move freely. Reason: these are merely splash-oiled by the nearby chain, so their surfaces need to require little oil. The oil holes in the pivot shaft bearing are held upright by the rubber blocks in its ends: if it does now STAY upright, it also will not collect oil. Then it will seize the bearings. Then the rubber parts will be subjected to very high, erratic loads.
;)
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