Topic: Assembling my '74 CB550 - Putting it all back together

[RAFster122s]

Ron, I appreciate your thread greatly.  It is a great resource. 

Refinishing the tank I would imagine is likely given the amount of material and number of soaks it has had to endure.  It would be difficult to keep it from wicking its way under the wrap despite precautions taken. Not criticizing Cal's work but odds are against him being able to pull off 4-5 times of soaks and draining the material. I hope that he can, but I guess I would not be too hopeful about it. Guess I am too pessimistic.

How is the Corvair coming along?

David

[calj737]

David - you are right. During the Acetone soak, the paint bubbled. Already broke the dreadful news to Ron. It appears there may have been an imperfect sold at the neck, but I haven't finished with the liners yet, so I can't say for sure. But that beautiful paint is ruined, no doubt.

I'm not going to post any pictures of it, as it would detract from the fantastic condition when it was last seen. Ron will get it repainted, and then his beauty will be on the road!

[RAFster122s]

I was afraid of that, let's not post pics, like you said and no pics and it never happened
wish it were that simple sometimes.
Acetone is powerful and nasty solvent, most adhesive tape doesn't have a prayer against it and it is thin and easy to wick its way wherever it wants to go.
Xylene is some nasty nasty stuff. Causes all kinds of havoc in the human body and is transdermal as well, meaning it wicks through your skin to cause harm. If you are smelling it it is being absorbed as well.
MEK and Xylene are cancer causing chemicals,  so be careful around them Cal.

My liver enzymes were way out of kilter and they were running tests to see if I had non-alcoholic cirrhosis and did liver biopsy expecting fatty liver, etc. Scan of liver etc.
It didn't occur to me that the Xylene might have been to blame as I was soaking some rubber intakes and had spilled some on my jeans pant leg at the thigh. So, I got a bad exposure/dose from that as I didn't change pants..
Took a long time for the enzymes to return to normal.

David

[Scott S]

 I can't tell you how many times I've referenced this thread for clarification.  It really should be a book.

[Oddjob]

Well been a long while since I trawled this thread and firstly I'd like to say how sorry I was to hear about your mother, lost mine a few years ago and TBH I don't think I've gotten over it yet.

Secondly, an apology. I decided to re-read the thread again from start to finish ( I like looking at good pics  ) whilst I was scanning through the pics I noticed a part that your clearly missing, namely it's the small black cap which fits inside the kickstarter shaft which prevents crud/dirt etc from going inside the pivoting mechanism. It's a very easy part to miss TBH as unless you know it's there you think the kickstater is meant to be that way. It's part No. 28305-310-000 described as a kick arm cap, the apology part is that I tend to trawl around the web looking for NOS parts which are sitting neglected in a dealers back room. I recently found a few of these parts and bought them all as they really are like rocking horse droppings, unfortunately I sold them all very quickly, if I'd have noticed you were missing one I'd have let you have one FOC as my contribution to a really nice looking bike.

That said, it's possible that this part is easier to source in the USA than over here, so hopefully you'll be able to find one. I'm presuming of course that the kickstarter is the same one as used on the CB500K as the CB550F used a different one due to the exhaust layout, yours however looks to be the 500 version.

Shame about the tank, not 100% sure why you decided to line it as I didn't read all the posts, was it just a "just in case" scenario? or was the tank holed in some way or looked like it would develop holes at some point?

[MickB]

SohRon if you still need the kick arm cap you're in luck I have a spare your welcome to, let me know.

[Folsoe]

Im doing a cb500 75.  It is really super to use your build as inspiration.   Used several evenings already on this thread and getting things Right.   Thanks a lot    I Want mine to be as fine as yours , but its really hard to get it the level of yours cb 550.  Will post pictures in another thread

[SohRon]

Im doing a cb500 75.  It is really super to use your build as inspiration.   Used several evenings already on this thread and getting things Right.   Thanks a lot    I Want mine to be as fine as yours , but its really hard to get it the level of yours cb 550.  Will post pictures in another thread

Glad to hear the thread was helpful with your project! That's what it is all about!

I'd like to announce that, after many requests to do so, I have compiled the thread into what may be a more accessible form. I've basically copied the most pertinent info and divided it up into sections (an index, if you will) that will, hopefully be a little easier to follow. As it is meant only as a reference, the thread will be locked to comments, but feel free to add any insights or questions you may have to this thread (I've included a link), which will continue as it is for the foreseeable future.

Here's the thread location, at least for now: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,151576.0.html . After I've completed the entire project, I'll probably have it moved to a more appropriate forum, but you can find it there for now.

It's doubtful that I'll be returning to the bike until next spring, so you'll just have to keep an eye out for that. Thanks to everyone who has commented and/or added to the project. Couldn't have done it without you!

[wowbagger]

Thanks for putting so much effort into this. You are a scholar and a gentleman, sir.

[Stev-o]

Great idea, Ron...thanks.

[flatlander]

this will be a great help for people, thanks ron!

[Restoration Fan]

Ron,
Again you have outdone yourself.  Well done, sir!

Remember the full service gas stations where a couple of different guys would run up when you parked?  One guy would fill up the car but the rest would check the oil, the tires, then wipe down the car windows and even clean the car? 

This bike is so perfect that I have always envisioned that something similar happens every time you pull up to a gas station.  Throngs of adoring people flock to it to adore it and help wipe off any road dust...just to maintain that pristine state! 

Ron

[SohRon]

No problem-o, dudes! Hopefully this will make the thread a bit more accessible. I've noticed that, on my PC some of the links dump me into the middle of the post, while on my tablet they seem to bring up the topic spot on; all I can say is, if the link dumps you in the wrong spot, just scroll down and you'll find your post. I don't know how to use Anchors in BB code, so at least for now I'll just have to deal with it as it is.

Thanks for participating! 

[MickB]

SohRon if you still need the kick arm cap you're in luck I have a spare your welcome to, let me know.

SR don't forget if you need one of these let me know. Mick

[MickB]

Does anyone have part 32171323000 wire hanger?

[SohRon]

Mick, I have one all ready to go. I'll trade it for your kick lever cap!

This is the one you're looking for, right?

[MickB]

SR you're great, I posted that by mistake on your project.
YES, I'll take it, let me know the cost and I'll Paypal you straight away.
Best
Mick

[wowbagger]

Mick, I think I have a spare one of those. I'll take a look tonight and message you.

[MickB]

SR I didn't read your note fully, you're on, I'll send a note to you with my address and visa versa. Mick

[MickB]

Wowbagger thanks for the offer but the swap with SR will suit us both. Mick

[SohRon]

Hello, everyone... long time no see I guess. Have been busy with other projects and haven't spent much time with the bike lately, but things have come up that have prompted my attention re: the thread.

The bike itself still sits pretty much as it was when I last posted; finished all but the tank. Through a series of unfortunate events the tank I had restored with the bike came to an unfortunate and irretrievable end, so, right now, it sits without a tank;  and since I spent nearly a thousand dollars on it to begin with, it just wasn't something I was willing to dive into right away. I've been spending most of my time and money during the last year or so restoring my '62 Corvair Monza 'Vert, so the bike has been sitting idle in the corner under cover awaiting its turn.

Here are some shots of the restored Corvair just to show what I've been up to











This brings me to the purpose of the post. I'm moving away from Frederick and will be cancelling my ISP. The downside to that is that I used them for photo storage for several years, so there are many pics in this thread that are going to disappear after the 7th of March. What I plan to do eventually is to move them all to Photobucket but unfortunately I'm so busy with the move, etc, that it will take some time to accomplish that. I hope to get back to it all within the next month or so; when I do I plan to finish the thread with new posts and pics - hey, I'm retiring and so should have plenty of time on my hands to get back to the bike!

As a matter of fact, we are moving to a small town named Bayfield, about ten miles east of Durango, which is where the big rally is taking place this summer! Talk about a coincidence! If plans go as anticipated, I'll have the bike up and running for that! Can't wait!

Anyway, stay tuned for further developments as they occur. Glad to be back and am looking forward to seeing you all in Durango later on this summer.

'til next time!

[Stev-o]

Hey Ron...good to hear from you. I like the Corvair! Gook luck with the move [I hate moving]

[Scott S]

Well, I've finally found the time to get back to the bike project, and I'm pretty jazzed about it. My original thread covered the restoration of a '74 CB550K that I had bought cheap from a friend, but there turned out to be problems with that frame (and quite a few other parts, actually); in addition, my personal life was just becoming too hectic for words and was leaving little time for the project, so abandoning the build was in order, at least temporarily.

Now, all of that is finally behind me and it's time to concentrate on the bike. Here it is as it stands now

(Note that if you click on the above pic it will open  to full isze)

I did a lot of work on this for the original build, so the main thing I've been concentrating on in preparation for reassembly has been cosmetics; basically I've been doing a lot of polishing and repainting. I've gone over all of the nuts, bolts and screws so they shine, reworked and refinished some components (right hand switch, brake MC, etc), and in general spiffed everything up so it looks pretty. I'm actually preparing parts for another bike at the same time, so things are being done in twos. Fun!

This is the replacement frame as I received it. I had it sandblasted

then powder coated gloss black, and I'm not sure I'd do the high gloss again; at least not in a dark color. The black powder coat is so glossy and fragile that it required a special clear overcoat (at extra cost) to protect the finish. The problem is that the overcoat is kind of fragile itself, and shows every fingerprint and micro scratch. There are areas in the finish that are a Little cloudy now from attempts to clean off fingerprints. Even Microfiber cloths can scratch the finish. I'm thinking that eventually I'll have the frame redone, but have it coated with the semigloss finish which is still pretty shiny, but a little more forgiving. Still, it does look nice

So, I'm going to buck the trend and restore this bike to (something at least resembling) original condition. And that means bucking another trend (and here some of you will quietly shake your heads while others will spew their coffee all over the monitor and wave frantically over their shoulders hollering, "my God, Ma! Come see what this lunatic is doing now!"): I'm going to start the return to 1974 by using the original ball bearing setup in the steering head. Now, before I get letters, I need to say that I fully appreciate the potential superiority of the tapered bearings over ball bearings and have no problem with them; in fact, I have a set I'll be using on another build. But I feel that the ball bearing setup works just fine, too; so, since I want this particular bike to be closer to original, ball bearings it is. I think, too, that it would be good to go over installation of these as there just aren't many threads covering this subject

I bought a new ball bearing steering set from David Silver Spares (yes, they are still available), which actually turned out to be more expensive than the tapered bearing kit. The ball bearing "kit" consists of top and bottom inner and outer races, a new rubber dust seal and steel washer, and 37 steel balls; that is to say, thirty-seven individual 3X5 plastic baggies, each containing one small steel ball

I started out by inserting the top and bottom outer races into the steering head. I left the races in the freezer for a couple of days, so they were pretty frosty. I gently warmed the race seat with a torch, then used the old races to tap the new ones in place; just moving around and around the perimeter of the race was enough to drive the new part home

With both top and bottom outer races installed into the steering head, I supported the frame upside down so I could install the bottom bearing and steering stem

Here are the steering components: steering stem/lower fork yoke, top and bottom (already installed on steering stem) inner races, 37 steel balls (18 top, 19 bottom), the upper race cap (or thread), and the steering stem nut and washer

Coating the balls with grease, I installed all 19 in the bottom outer race...

...then inserted the stem down through the steering head and secured it in place with a couple of big rubber bands, giving it a couple of twists to lightly seat the balls (the rubber band trick works pretty well; not only does it keep the stem in place while adding the bearings to the top end, but it helps to keep the triple tree from flopping around after assembly)

Flipping the frame over, I added the balls for the top bearing;  18 all. While it might seem that there's enough space for another ball, the gap is necessary to keep the balls from rubbing against each other, which would cause scoring of the balls and failure of the bearing.

Inserting the top inner bearing race...

...then the upper bearing race cap (or thread)

Now, I did some research on this step because it seems that this is where many of the problems arise with this type of bearing. What can happen is that the thread gets overtightened and  the balls are pressed into the races so that they form seats, or dimples in the metal (and the balls themselves can be deformed), creating notchy steering as the balls pass over the dimple ridges, and a location "memory" that tends to want to keep the steering in one place.

Wanting to do things right, I turned to all four of the repair manuals I've been using (Clymer's; Hayne's; Chilton's and the official Honda Shop Manual) to get their spin on bearing adjustment. Here's what they have to say: Hayne's: "Using a c-spanner, tighten the adjuster nut beneath the top fork yoke until the bearings are free from play." Clymer's tells me how to prepare for adjustment, then gets relatively vague regarding proper adjustment procedures. The Chilton's book surprised me as it seemed to be the most comprehensive, saying: "Tighten the flat steering stem nut in small increments (italics theirs) until there is no fore-and-aft movement in the stem and it can move freely and smoothly throughout its range. Do not over tighten the flat stem nut" (again, italics theirs). The "Official" Honda shop manual throws a monkey wrench into the mix by advising me to "tighten the top head nut fully, then back it off to the point where the handlebar can be turned with reasonable ease". So, rather than tightening to a point as the others advise, the Honda manual says tighten the thread "Fully", then back it off to a certain point. This is where the problems arise, and the races get dimpled.

I talked to my motorcycle "Guru" friend, and he sided with the Honda manual, but with qualifications. "What this book doesn't show," he said, "is that you've got to keep the steering stem moving while you tighten down the nut. Folks (not his word, BTW, but I'm keeping it clean) just get in there holding the steering stem motionless or even with the wheel still on the ground and moose down on that nut like there's no tomorrow, and they're surprised when they end up with notchy steering."  He said that the way he'd always done it was to insert the stem and nut, then tighten down the nut as far as it could go by hand. "If you do it right," he said, "that'll almost get you there. Then you apply the spanner and the trick is to tighten the nut using the steering stem, not the wrench". And he pantomimed keeping the wrench stationary while turning the stem. "When you get to the end of the steering travel, just reposition the wrench and stem and continue until you start to feel resistance, then back off the nut a touch and you're done. What you're doing here is seating the balls in the races, so the idea is to keep the bearings in motion while you're doing the tightening. That way you'll never get notchy steering".

I don't know if anyone else does it this way, but after he explained it to me like that, that's how I adjusted the headnut. The steering moves smoothly from stop to stop. Just like butta.

So, here the bike is complete with its new steering bearings. While the original ball bearing setup may not be for everybody, I expect with proper maintenance that it will last for another forty years, at least. Vive la difference, n'est-ce pas?

The next post will cover installing the frame onto the engine and commencing work on the front end. Can't wait.

'til next time

 Can you repost the pics of the "frame over engine" procedure? They're not showing up on the first page.

[Bootsey]

 Can you repost the pics of the "frame over engine" procedure? They're not showing up on the first page.

Hey Scott,
I was lucky enough to download a copy of the collated CB550 Assembly Guide that SohRon very kindly uploaded, before some of the photos went missing due to his move. I'd be more than happy to send you a copy if you need.

[Scott S]

 Can you repost the pics of the "frame over engine" procedure? They're not showing up on the first page.

Hey Scott,
I was lucky enough to download a copy of the collated CB550 Assembly Guide that SohRon very kindly uploaded, before some of the photos went missing due to his move. I'd be more than happy to send you a copy if you need.

 That would be great. I'll PM you.