Topic: 550 valve setting per factory book

[Surly]

My book says to set the engine to the "T" mark for 1&4 and then you can set intake #1 and #3 and exhaust #1 and #2. After setting in and ex for #1 I went on to exhaust #2 and it is tight. Tight like I can't get a shim in there with the tappet removed completely. Is this procedure correct for the 77 550K? My book is the July, 20th 1977 issue of the Honda CB500-550 Shop Manual.

Also, if you set the engine at the "T" mark for 1&4 and then rotate the engine 360deg. in one position the tappets are slack. This is clearly stated in the procedure for cam chain adjustment. Does this mean when going between setting the engine at the 1&4 time pos and the 2&3 pos I cannot have an extra rotation in there? I mean do all the valves have to be set on the same cycle?

Pardon my ignorance. I just want to get the valves set correctly and get back on the road. 
Thanks



 

[mkramer1121]

To quote Clymer's (I'm doing this this weekend for the first time):
Anything prior to 4 was dissassembly
4) rotate the crankshaft clockwise w/ the kickstart pedal until the T 1-4 mark, visable through the peephole in the breaker plate, is even w/ the outer index mark.
5) either no. 1 or 4 is at TDC.  Find out which by feeling the rocker arms .  The one with them both loose is the one at TDC.
6-8 is adjustment
9) rotate another 360 degrees with the kickstart.  The opposite one from step 5 will be loose.  Set and adjust.
Adjust 2 and 3 with the T 2-3 mark. 

I'm really posting this as this is what I have.  I've got a '75 CB550F and have some tune up work to do.  If its incorrect, please correct me so I don't mess this up this weekend!

[paulages]

i always rotate the engine 180deg at a time, and just intake and exhaust one cylinder at a time, when you can see for yourself that both valves are up.

[jph550]

I've noticed the same difference in the Honda shop manual and Clymers in regard to valve settings.
I think the Honda manual assumes a certain amount of previous experiece with Honda engines. Reviewing them both has taught me that when the piston is TBC the intake and exhaust valves should both have play in them.

This post confirms that for me. Thanks

[Surly]

The first time I did this I used the Clymer and all was beautiful. This time with the Factory book is where I had the trouble. The factory book seems to have left out the "at top dead center" part. I set #1 and after turning the engine 360 the valves had about 1/4" clearance. I think this is a bit much.  This was the red flag. I'll finish 'er up by going cyl. by cyl. and ensuring the piston is at TDC for each and of course the timing marks aligned for the respective cyl. So it's not so much the amount of rotations, as the piston position for the cyl. I get it now.
Thanks.