Topic: 350f electrical

[nk140]

Well I am having some issues with the wiring of my bike.  Some weird issues have came up.  1.  The headlight will not turn on and it is wired correctly. 2. The taillight will not work but the brake light will. 3. Horn will not work.  4. Starter switch doesn't work.  5. Turn signals work but both are on when the switch is either on left or right.

I know this is a lot of problems but I am lost.  I am thinking it is just one or two wires in the wrong place.

Also should the frame ground and battery ground be tied together?

[MoMo]

Did everything work at one time? a little more background will be helpful...Larry

[nk140]

Did everything work at one time? a little more background will be helpful...Larry

Worked before the teardown now it does not.  I have an aftermarket left hand control for the lights, signals, and horn.

[MoMo]

If those switches were on before the teardown, it would seem you have to double check your connections. Keep us posted..  Larry

[fletcha221]

What position is the ignition when this is happening?

[midnightrider]

Do you have a digital multimeter (DMM)?  If not, get one.  $4 at harbor freight. The continuity function (often signified with >+) will tell you if one contact is on a closed circuit with another contact - this is very useful with a simple understanding of your bike's electrics.

Well I am having some issues with the wiring of my bike.  Some weird issues have came up.  1.  The headlight will not turn on and it is wired correctly. 2. The taillight will not work but the brake light will. 3. Horn will not work.  4. Starter switch doesn't work.  5. Turn signals work but both are on when the switch is either on left or right.

1. one of a few things is happening: the bulb is bad, the switch is bad, or it in fact is not wired correctly
2.the taillight and brake light are on different circuits and use different filaments in the bulb, so they really have nothing to do with one another
3.horn is either not getting power because of bad feed connections, bad ground, bad horn switch, or it is bad
4.Starter is not getting power, is dead, or the switch isn't working/connected properly
5.The left/right circuits are connected somewhere - they should not be

General Advice:
QD contact cleaner should be used on all connections. 
Remember - if all of the components work (bulbs, switches, etc.) then all you need is ~12v coming from the battery and a good ground. 

Troubleshooting: Find a good known ground on the bike to connect the COM lead of the DMM to - you can confirm a known good ground with the DMM by connecting pos to the battery + and COM to the grounding location and checking for 12v.
You can then use the DMM (set it to DCV- and the number closest to but more than 12) to check for ~12v on the hot wires (with the circuit on) and with the COM lead of the DMM on the known good ground.
If you don't see ~12v when the circuit should be on then the power supply side has a problem...in the connections or the switch.  If you see ~12v with the known good ground but not with the the COM lead connected to the circuit's ground then the circuit ground has a problem.  If you see ~12v with the COM lead connected to the circuit's ground  then your device (bulb, horn, etc) is bad or not making a good connection when installed.

[nk140]

What position is the ignition when this is happening?

Ignition is in the on position.  I am going to tear apart the wiring in the headlight bucket and do it over again for a third time because one or two wires is in the wrong position.

I am using a LED taillight/brake light and LED signals.  There are two positive wires to the taillight so I assume one is the tail and one is the brake. 

[nk140]

Do you have a digital multimeter (DMM)?  If not, get one.  $4 at harbor freight. The continuity function (often signified with >+) will tell you if one contact is on a closed circuit with another contact - this is very useful with a simple understanding of your bike's electrics.

Well I am having some issues with the wiring of my bike.  Some weird issues have came up.  1.  The headlight will not turn on and it is wired correctly. 2. The taillight will not work but the brake light will. 3. Horn will not work.  4. Starter switch doesn't work.  5. Turn signals work but both are on when the switch is either on left or right.

1. one of a few things is happening: the bulb is bad, the switch is bad, or it in fact is not wired correctly
2.the taillight and brake light are on different circuits and use different filaments in the bulb, so they really have nothing to do with one another
3.horn is either not getting power because of bad feed connections, bad ground, bad horn switch, or it is bad
4.Starter is not getting power, is dead, or the switch isn't working/connected properly
5.The left/right circuits are connected somewhere - they should not be

General Advice:
QD contact cleaner should be used on all connections. 
Remember - if all of the components work (bulbs, switches, etc.) then all you need is ~12v coming from the battery and a good ground. 

Troubleshooting: Find a good known ground on the bike to connect the COM lead of the DMM to - you can confirm a known good ground with the DMM by connecting pos to the battery + and COM to the grounding location and checking for 12v.
You can then use the DMM (set it to DCV- and the number closest to but more than 12) to check for ~12v on the hot wires (with the circuit on) and with the COM lead of the DMM on the known good ground.
If you don't see ~12v when the circuit should be on then the power supply side has a problem...in the connections or the switch.  If you see ~12v with the known good ground but not with the the COM lead connected to the circuit's ground then the circuit ground has a problem.  If you see ~12v with the COM lead connected to the circuit's ground  then your device (bulb, horn, etc) is bad or not making a good connection when installed.

I have a DMM.  I will run through some checks in a few minutes.

1.  Headlight worked before tear down.
2.  LED tail/brake light.  Two positive wires one for brake and one for tail.  Brake works but Tail doesn't.
3.  I really don't know if the horn even worked before tear down.
4.  I am thinking it is the switch.
5.  It is a good possibility that they are somehow tied together somewhere in the bucket.

[midnightrider]

What position is the ignition when this is happening?

Ignition is in the on position.  I am going to tear apart the wiring in the headlight bucket and do it over again for a third time because one or two wires is in the wrong position.

I am using a LED taillight/brake light and LED signals.  There are two positive wires to the taillight so I assume one is the tail and one is the brake. 

This should not require that you tear all of the wiring apart, but you do need to systematically troubleshoot your problems.  You may still want to clean each connection with contact cleaner though...
 

[DarcyCB400F]

The starter switch controls power to your headlight... are you confident your starter switch is 100%?

[nk140]

The starter switch controls power to your headlight... are you confident your starter switch is 100%?

That may be the big problem here.  I forgot to say I have a cbr600f4i starter switch and it may be bad.  I will take a pic of the 3 wiring diagrams and maybe you all can help me out.

[nk140]

Here are the wiring diagrams that I have.  I thought I had everything correct, but I am guessing not.  I have the original controls that I guess I can try and see if they work.

Left hand control

Right hand controls(Kill switch, starter button, and front brake switch)

350f wiring diagram

[DarcyCB400F]

If you want the complete (high res) and correct wiring diagram for a 400F (which may be different) PM me with your email address.
Here is a low res copy...

[nk140]

If you want the complete (high res) and correct wiring diagram for a 400F (which may be different) PM me with your email address.
Here is a low res copy...

So are you saying the 350f diagram that I have is wrong?

I noticed something interesting a few minutes ago.  When the ignition is in the first position the brake light switch works but the brake light is not that bright(i.e. it looks like it is the taillight brightness).  When I turn it to the second position the taillight comes on and stays on, but it is bright(i.e. bright like the brake switch is active).

[DarcyCB400F]

If you want the complete (high res) and correct wiring diagram for a 400F (which may be different) PM me with your email address.
Here is a low res copy...

So are you saying the 350f diagram that I have is wrong?

I noticed something interesting a few minutes ago.  When the ignition is in the first position the brake light switch works but the brake light is not that bright(i.e. it looks like it is the taillight brightness).  When I turn it to the second position the taillight comes on and stays on, but it is bright(i.e. bright like the brake switch is active).

I don't know for sure if your diagram is wrong but the diagram you have is for a 350F/400F... I have an accurate 400F diagarm. Perhaps it's worth a look.

[nk140]

Well I am stumped still...

On my new signal and light switch there is a Headlight + wire.  Where does this go?

Also I have red/black and blue/white wires on the new starter switch that but do not now what they correlate to on the 350f wiring diagram. 

I believe these wires have something to do with the dimmer switch.

Also does anyone have a photo where the connect to on the back of the turn signal relay because one of the posts is broken of the back.

[nk140]

Well I have figured out everything with my wiring except for the starter switch.  I am going to take it apart and make sure it is working.

Things that I have noticed.

1.  Make sure your signal indicator light is not shorted out because this will cause both right and left turn signals to come on if one or the other is selected.

2.  Make sure your your 12V (black wire) is tied to the brown/white wire somewhere.  I believe the old right hand controls had it tied together internally.

3.  Wiring can be frustrating when you think about it to much.  This is coming from a EE.

[midnightrider]

3.  Wiring can be frustrating when you think about it to much.  This is coming from a EE.

Imagine how it for an EVE like me...

You'll get the starter sorted out when you get into it...might need a new spring.