Here's what I got, I'm picking up a '78 CB750 Supersport tonight. Doesn't start, it does kick over and runs for a few seconds off ...
- Pull and clean the carbs (youtube has a great video on cleaning bike carbs)
This may be required. But, I pull off the bowls first to see if it is really needed. Having said that, it's likely that the pilot jets are plugged, and will have to be yanked from the carb bodies to properly clear them. The ease of bench work is balanced with the ease of not removing/reinstalling the carb bank. If you chose to remove them, plan on getting new rubber boots both fore and aft of the carbs.
- Replace the spark plugs
Sure, why not? NGK D8EA
- New plug wires?
The stock plug wires are molded into the coils. Unless you find a specific problem, treat the wires gingerly to avoid cracking. Measure the plug cap resistance (they unscrew) S/B 5000 ohms +/- 10%.
- New fuel lines
You have a reason for this? Then get the correct 5.5mm line.
- Rebuild the master brake cylinder (youtube again)
Is there a reason this is necessary? Is it beyond a simple brake fluid change? Anyway, you have two; one front, one rear.
- New oil filter
- Oil change
Certainly
- New paper element in the airbox (thinking ditching the airbox and going K&N, thoughts?)
Fine... if you want to learn a whole lot about how carbs work, have a test track or access to a dynomometer, in order to discover what jetting and carb readjustments will compensate for the 4 individual filter change. Otherwise, put a K&N element in the stock filter box and go ride it.
I don't what to touch the engine or calipers if I don't have to, i'm sure I will eventually. I figure once I get it running lots of issues will rear their head.
This particular 750 model has a bad reputation for wearing valve guides prematurely. I would do a compression check or a leak down test on any new acquisition that isn't running.
You can only avoid the calipers if they aren't dragging on the rotor. Do a fluid change, at least.
I plan to try electrolysis and a bunch of wood screws and washers for the rust. Should I try the Kreem kit, POR 15 or take it to the paint shop once I got it as far as I can?
I favor the electrolysis method. You shouldn't need screws. This tank is a real pain because of the sunken well at the top. It makes it really difficult to completely empty contents, and get cleaning solution in the air pocket it creates. IMO the internal surface needs to be etched after de-rusting before a coating goes on. If you trust a shop to do the work correctly, it will save you a big frustration. But, get a guarantee in writing. Kreem will pool at the low points and you are supposed to drain out the excess after coating. It's a challenge to keep the coat thin so it can properly cure. It is not catalysed. So, it needs thorough air drying to for it to harden properly. If you put in gas before it completely cures, the coating will fail.
Should I get a carb rebuild kit and swap out the gaskets and jets?
No just clean the metal bits you have.
As for the rubber gaskets, it depends on when they were last replaced or how hard they have gotten. If the bowl gasket reseals, you are good. If you separate the carbs from the bank, then there are more bits to replace.
Cheers,
