Topic: Installing the CycleX ignition, Reg/Rec, and ignition switch

[jollyradar]

Alright looking for some help out there from someone who has already done this. I have the ignition installed and now I'm working on the Reg/Rec and and ignition switch.

Does anyone know how to wire the Reg/Rec? The wires are already grouped into 2 groups, but it appears to only have one ground. The Rec has the 3 yellow and a white and black, different from the stock rec. The reg has a green, a white red, and a black. The black wires seem continuous. A little help here?

Also installing a starter ignition switch. 3 position, Off/On/Start. Does anyone know what to do with the TL1 and TL2 wires from the stock ignition switch in this setup. Stock On position has them together. My thought is that I can just crimp them together. This would remove any sort of Accessory only on position. Can someone confirm this for me?

I have spent a lot of time with a multimeter and the wire diagram and feel pretty confident. It's just nice to bounce my ideas off other people. If you look at a wiring diagram long enough you can convinced yourself of anything.

Thanks guys.

[jollyradar]

I knew i would for get something. I am also eliminating the kill switch. To do this I can just crimp the two wires together right?
 Again, just want to say this stuff out loud. I know it sounds simple but I have looked at a lot of different circuits in the last 24 hours.

[nomad]

Why get rid of your kill switch?  I'd think that might be a safety feature you'd want to keep.

[Silverback]

The first group of yellows, black and white go to the stator connector. All the colors match up.
The second group hooks into the the spade connectors previously connected to the regulator. All colors match up.

The red wire goes to your starter solenoid (small red wire input) or directly to your battery depending on your set-up. This is what charges your battery.

About your kill switch... Yes, you can just join them or power the black/white coil wires directly from a 12v source. Removing the switch is risky business. I have a custom 750 I am building with absolutely no switches on the bars, except for the kill. Once you have to use it, you will really appreciate the fact that it's there. It's a blow your motor or wreck situation without this switch.

[jollyradar]

I'm also going completely switch less on the bars. This is the reason I want to eliminate it. I have never been in a situation where I have needed it, or where just reaching down to the key wasn't an option.

As far as the wiring goes, maybe a little more information on my part would be good. The colors do not match up for the Reg/Rec. Also the bike is a 71 750.

Reg/Rec Group 1

White Red
Green
Black

Reg/Rec group 2

Yellow
yellow
yellow
Black
 White

Reg Stock

White
Green
Black

Rec Stock

Yellow
yellow
yellow
Red White
Green

[Silverback]

Ok! I just had a look at the reg/rec on the cycleX website. I see what you are saying about the black wire in the yellow wire group. Seems as though this should be a ground, and this is the way it is on my aftermarket reg/rec (not from cycleX).

...but alas, the black wires are contiguous.

I think I would call Ken up at CycleX and get the skinny. If I were an experimenting man, and I am. I would just ground the stator out using a ground you make and omit (don't use) the black wire from the yellow wire group. The black wire provides 12V to the reg/rec and I can't see why the aftermarket unit would need two sources, especially since both black wires are contiguous through the reg/rec.

[madmtnmotors]

Better check your wiring diagrams... many kill switches are "Normally Open" and activating the kill switch typically "Closes" the circuit and grounding the ignition spark. Eliminating the kill switch often is just a matter of removing it, leaving the wires disconnected. Verify whether the kill switch is opened (simple diconnect) or closed (reconnect the wires at the harness) when the switch is in the "Run" position. You can check this at the switch wiring with a continuity tester across the switch, testing it in both the "Run" and "Kill" positions.

My CB750K8 is "Open" in the run position if I remember correctly.

[Silverback]

The kill (start/stop) switch on the 750 actually powers the coils. This is the point at which 3 ohm coils tax the system causing failure of the start/stop switch.

[madmtnmotors]

The kill (start/stop) switch on the 750 actually powers the coils. This is the point at which 3 ohm coils tax the system causing failure of the start/stop switch.

Ahhh... thanks for the clarification. I bypassed mine quite a while ago when troubleshooting and have since reconnected it (also quite some time ago) and could not remember for certain. I was just about to break out the wiring diagrams to be sure.

[Silverback]

I'm also going completely switch less on the bars. This is the reason I want to eliminate it. I have never been in a situation where I have needed it, or where just reaching down to the key wasn't an option.

Yep, kinda like a parachute on an airplane. My ignition is not on the top clamp anymore so that's why I had to put a kill on the bars. I also ALWAYS wear a helmet just because there are other things I want to do in this lifetime. I don't follow the mantra "When it's your time, it's your time!"

[fire113]

...good to know, I have one from a cb750KC and wasn't sure if I can use it on one of my CB750K's.

[jollyradar]

Ok I just spoke with CycleX and here it the schematic (words not pictures):

Group 1

Black - Runs to Key ON
Green - Ground
White Red - Battery

Group 2

Yellows - Yellows
Black - Green wire at motor (not Ground)
White - White

Hope this can help the next guy.

[jollyradar]

Yea I just saw that in the schematic. the guy at CycleX (didn't give a name) said that that wire was to run to the Green at the motor. That can't be correct. If the first black wire is to ignition and is continuous with the second black wire (and it is), the second black can't be grounded.

Right?

Also for the ignition switch question. Crimping TL1 and TL2 together to remove the accessory position works. (For the next guy.)

[gnarlycharlie4u]

I'm also going completely switch less on the bars. This is the reason I want to eliminate it. I have never been in a situation where I have needed it, or where just reaching down to the key wasn't an option.

you go off the road into soft grass to avoid a deer.
no body damage at all but the key has snapped off in the ignition and the throttle handle is embedded in the dirt.
bike is goin full acceleration on it's side, you can't kill it, motor grenades and/or catches fire.
what could have been a just pick up and go wreck is now a total loss.

[jollyradar]

You worry too much.

[Analysis]

Sorry to bring this topic back but I have another question: it says that the white wire buddled with the 3 yellows should attach to white on the wiring harness side. What? Should it not go to the battery (red)?

[Spanner 1]

No......... white ( which is the + to the feild coil ) goes to the white in the loom. Red with white stripe goes to battery ( +) only 

[madmtnmotors]

If I understand the alternator correctly, the white wire powers the field magnet. These bikes use an electromagnet instead of a permanent magnet and the white wire is regulated (by the regulator) to vary the strength of the magnetic field thus regulating the output, somewhat indirectly. With a permanent magnet system the regulator would shunt the alternator output since alternator output is constant (at a given rpm)with a permanent magnet system.

[Spanner 1]

Yes M.M.M..... the white wire carries power to the field coil in 3 stages ( determined by the regulator which monitors the state of charge of the battery ) it gets either full available voltage if the battery is depleted/low , 1/2 power as the battery gets closer to a full charge and no voltage ( Off ) when the battery is 'full'...... the 'off' is the part I like about the stock set-up, it gives the battery a 'rest' and the alternator a rest ( cool down ). All solid state reg/rect, units never turn off and supply 14.5v to the battery constantly ( with varying wattage vs. engine rpm ).... boohoo IMO.

[Analysis]

I just connected everything as is described here yet when I connect the black wire (from the small bundle) to the black wire on the harness, I blow the main fuse. I've thought about it for a while and I can't see why? By the way, I'm using the partsnmore harness. (If that makes a difference?) (CB750k4)

[Analysis]

I've attached a photo of the situation. The two bundles from the solid-state reg/ref are coming from the top left and the harness is coming in from the bottom right. Disregard the 'white' label in the top left (should say red/white). When I connect the black and turn the key, it shorts.

[madmtnmotors]

Let me check mine when I get home. I've scoured the diagrams and pictures in this thread and I believe there was some wierdness to mine when I wired it up (20 years ago?) I just can't rmember what it was. Stay tuned, I'll even throw in some pictures.

Update: Well, pictures are out of the question for now. I recently went through my electrical harness behind the left side cover to clean up them 30-year old connections and I taped the harness up tight! Now I can't tell where all of the wires go... I do have identically bundled wires from the reg/rect: 3-yellow, 1-black, 1-white in one bundle and 1-green, 1-white/red stripe, 1-black in the other bundle.

If I need to unwrap and trace them out then it will probably have to wait until the weekend... sorry I couldn't be more immediate help.

Keep us posted.

[Analysis]

I'm going to talk to cycle x tomorrow and see if they can help.

[the technological J]

I got rid of my kill switch and moved my key to the left side beneath the seat... neutral isn't easy to find so I either have to stall the bike or hold thhe clutch in with my right hand and turn off the key....  so I think I'm gonna find another swith and install it some where close to the guages

[Silverback]

The reason you are blowing the fuse is because you are connecting the black from main harness (switched power from ignition) to the black, which you stated is continuous with the other black. The other black looks like it is connected to the green wire from the main harness through the plastic connector. 12V power to ground = blown fuse.
Based on the info I have seen in this thread I would:
1: Disconnect black from green
2: Don't use one of the black wires(Cover with tape or shrink tube as it will be hot) 
3: Power the black(reg/rec) from the bike's harness black wire
4: Make sure the Reg/rec is grounded, as well as the the bike's generator (green wire on both harnesses)
Use the meter to check grounding. One of the grounds may be redundant and, if so, can be left un-attached.

Just sticking to what I suggested much earlier.

[Analysis]

Just got off the phone with cycle x and he said the same thing as mentioned earlier in the thread: that one of the blacks must be connected to the green wire coming out of the motor (but this shouldn't be ground). I'll try that and report back.

[Silverback]

All solid green wires on the cb750 are grounds!!! They are confused.

[Analysis]

Well, I did what they said and it no longer shorts. Though I'm not sure how I can confirm if everything is functioning. The green wire coming out of the engine now just goes directly to the reg/rec (one of the black wires). I am very confused as to why the green wire coming out of the engine does not function as a ground.

[Silverback]

  It does! As you can see in the diagram, that green wire connects to many different electrical components as a ground.

The small symbol with three parallel lines indicates ground (bottom green arrow). If you took the black wire that you were hooking up to the black wire from the harness to the green from the generator, and have left the other black connected to the green through the plastic connector, both are grounded which is why you are not blowing a fuse. However, the reg/rec has no power now since you have grounded out both black wires.

[Analysis]

  This is getting to be very annoying. I'll try and take a multimeter up to it to see. Has anyone using the cycle x reg/rec got this working?

[Spanner 1]

Sorry for your annoyance.... wondered why you took-out the unbeatable stock regulator anyway 

The reg/rect. you have is NOT for a stator/field coil type alternator, it's for an alternator with a powered rotor winding ( with brushes etc. ) like some of the CB 650 type alternators 

[Silverback]

I agree! Not the correct reg/rec for the 750, but might work, eventually. The on from Z1 is a plug and play.

[Spanner 1]

Spanner to Silverback; How's Irish Johnnie ??

[Analysis]

Well, I order the Power Arc ignition from cycle x and ended up just going for a whole new bunch of electronics.

[Silverback]

Spanner to Silverback; How's Irish Johnnie ??

He's good! I think that he is actually going to be down in Nashville this weekend. He and a few friends are riding down.

[Silverback]

Well, I order the Power Arc ignition from cycle x and ended up just going for a whole new bunch of electronics.

Do you have a meter that can measure DC voltage? This will essential for determining if it is working.

[Analysis]

Yes I do. What wires should I use to check?

[Silverback]

When your bike is running put the leads on the battery and rev the motor a bit. You should see the voltage go up to at least 13.5 volts. Maybe a bit over 14 at higher revs. The main thing is that your voltage increases as you rev the motor so that your battery charges. If not, maybe try the way I suggested hooking it up a couple of times now. Can't hurt, eh!?