Topic: Has anyone tried this for lifting and holding your SOHC4 engine/trans?

[Holubs]

Hi all,

I bought an F2 engine that was over-reved this winter, had it in my trailer and wanted a way to get it out by myself.  Bought a chain hoist at Harbor Freight and a couple of nylon lifting straps for $50.  Hung the chain hoist from a 4x4 across 2 of the rafters of my garage.  Wrapped the strap around the cylinders and lifted it right out of the trailer.

Thinking about a way to hold my engine when I am working on it, so back to HF for a 750 lb. engine stand.  The stand won't bolt to the SOHC4 directly, so I had 4 pieces of 1/4" x 2" hot rolled steel cut and bent, then I drilled them to fit the back trans mounting bolts.  Gives me good access to the front, plus the sides and bottom if I rotate it on the stand.

Has anyone tried this before, any reason why it won't work?

Thanks,
Holubs

[CB750F2]

Holubs, your idea is fine for working on the top end of your engine but if you need to split the crankcases then you only have two points to support the motor. I have done something similar but have added a second upright so that the front of the motor can be supported. The second upright is essentially the same as the rear and the axis for the adaptor plate must be in line with the one at the rear. I also suggest that you make sure that your timber trusses are strong enough - I strengthened mine by adding extra timber to tie the horizontal beam to the sloping timber. I suggest that you a search on these forums because you will find a lot of information. Pat

[CycleRanger]

Yeah, it works. 

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=55910.0

Search a bit for "engine stand adapter" and you'll find some creative solutions.

[Holubs]

Thanks for the replies.  How did you construct your front mount?  May be of interest if I ever have to split the cases.

I think my trusses should be OK for lifting a SOHC4 when I am bridging across two of them.  These trusses are built with 2" x 6" lumber, and are designed to hold the snow loading we get in the central US.

I should have searched the forum for ideas, some of those are bettoer than what I came up with.  I didn't think of using threaded rod to mount to the engine stand, that will work better than the original Honda bolts that will need spacers.  I guess engineers like to come up with their own solutions, even if there is an existing solution that may be better. :-)

Holubs

[CycleRanger]

Thanks for the replies.  How did you construct your front mount?  May be of interest if I ever have to split the cases.

You get another engine stand and graft the two together facing each other.   I believe there's some photos of that arrangement in a thread somewhere.

[MCRider]

I modified a stand much like yours (OP). What i found is that for working on the top end, I'd always had it on the bench in the past. And that's where it ended up again.  Put a 2x4 section under the front and it sits up so the studs are near vertical.

And as stated, for the bottom end its next to worthless, back to the bench again.

The time i spent raising my bench (Put extensions on the bottom of the legs)  to a comfortable height while standing, about waist high, was better spent than the time i spent making my engine stand. JMHO.

[CB750F2]

Holubs, I did what Cycleranger has suggested but you could make it yourself if you have the skills. Search the forums and you will find plenty of info. Pat

[CB750F2]

Search for "C-Hook engine removal and rotissorie engine stand". You need to read the whole post. The C-Hook works well. I can now remove my engine easily on my own and without damaging paintwork. Pat

[CycleRanger]

Search for "C-Hook engine removal and rotissorie engine stand". You need to read the whole post. The C-Hook works well. I can now remove my engine easily on my own and without damaging paintwork. Pat

I duplicated this setup. Worked perfectly, not a chip to the paint!
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=71240.0

Of course, I'd still like to have the C-hook.