Topic: changing the fuel lines

[ckramlic]

I want to change the fuel lines on my '76 550K  but it looks like a booger to get at where they hook on to the carbs. Is it possible to do this without taking the carbs off? Can I get at them with the carbs off, or do I have to take the outside carbs off the brace? I would like to avoid that if at all possible since the bike runs excellent and I don't want to screw up any adjustments.

[thehammer]

It will be much easier to take all the carbs off the rack than to try and shove new fuel lines on. if all you are doing is changing the fuel hoses from the tank to the carbs, then the only adjustment necessary will be the throttle linkages and thats no big whoop.

[Nortstudio]

I recently replaced the lines on my '76 550k.  It's a bit of a pain, but it can be done.  If you can get the old one off (cutting it vertically made it easier), you should be able to put a small amount of lube on there (I actually just used some gas) and force it down over the nipple. 

It definitely took some patience...

[ekpent]

Heat up the ends of the new fuel line first with a heat gun also in combo with some lube. The heat will make the new rubber much softer and supple and easier to slide over the nipple.  OOOH sounds kinda sexy 

[Nortstudio]

+1 on the heat. If you don't have a gun, you could always dip the end in some hot water. I had to do that to get the ends onto my carb sync extenders. Very annoying!

[Kevin400F]

Another trick I've used is to fashion a special tool from steel wire (like a heavy gage, high-quality coathanger) to aid in pushing the hose onto the connection.  Form a U-shaped partial loop at the end of the wire, at 90 degrees to the wire axis, to let you grip/push the hose, then disengage once the hose is seated.  The biggest problem with the 550 is the tight bend the hose must take between the fuel tees and the holes in the carb rack (assuming you stick with the stock routing).  If you can afford to buy an extra foot or two of hose use plenty of "slack" when hooking to the tees, then pull all the extra hose through the holes in the rack and cut off the excess as the last step to properly match the location of the petcock outlets.

Kevin

[Nortstudio]

Forgot to mention, make sure you have the correct size fuel line.  The clear type caused me all sorts of nightmares when I decided to go easy and cheap.  Had to get some rubber style like stock (I think the exact size is now unavailable, but you can get VERY close if you search).  1/4" was too big, especially because the clear type doesn't "grip" the petcock and T the way the rubbery style does.

[ckramlic]

So assuming I can find the right size fuel line, do I need to put a hose clamp on the end? I'm not sure I trust it not to leak without a spring clamp on the end.

[Nortstudio]

I have had good luck without a clamp. But only with the rubber type hose. Put one on there just in case if you're worried. Cheap security, and WAY easier to do before you get it on there

[CBGhia]

If you have a place near you that specializes in classic VW's, run in and grab some braided cloth wrapped fuel line.  That stuff fits great and does not need a clamp on it. 

[apex_seeking]

Not saying it's right, because I've read about problems with them, but I'm using 1/4 line and haven't had any leaking issues. I was using clamps on the petcock side and nothing on the carb end. Maybe I'm lucky....

Having said that, I just removed and replaced the lines last weekend (they were kinked and I added springs to keep them from kinking) and pulled them off and put back on the carbs with only removing the tank. It was a snap. Long, skinny fingers help but you can use a long set of needle nose if the fingers thing doesn't work for you.