Topic: Is my diode BAD?!

[theofam]

I'm not sure how to determine the amount of ohms that should be pumping through my diode for the neutral and oil pressure lights.  My neutral is not working - switch and bulb/bulb wire are fine - so I'm down to the diode or pulling apart the wiring harness to check for a bad connection. 

Wondering if this is the culprit.  Here are the readings:



Help me electrical guru(s), you're my only hope!

[mrrch]

Turn your meter to the diode check arrow symbol in red.
Shoud read in one direction and not the other if good (check then reverse the wires and check again)

[theofam]

mrrch, I had done that, but hadn't posted the pics since they, too, are numeric on my multimeter. Here goes:



I'm not sure if the ohm readings are fantastic (good diode) or poop.

[kerryb]

I just went through all of this over the weekend...it was a bad/busted connection in the headlight.  you may need to test each wire for continuity.  Simple but time consuming.  get/print a color copy of the wiring diagram and follow each one to where it should be.  Works every time if you have the time/patience.

[theofam]

Kerry, my connection in the bucket was good. I've unwrapped some of the harness(now entirely off the bike). The three-way solder is good. Continuity is there in all directions, but it seems weak and spotty. I think I'll unwrap from the solder forward. Thanks for your photo. If your 651 ohm reading is enough to operate the circuit, it looks like that's not at fault on my end 

[CycleRanger]

Check power going to the switch. Then disconnect the neutral switch and ohm out the switch while you shift gears.
Remember Occam's razor.

(I just had to replace my switch.)

[theofam]

Occam's razor?

[CycleRanger]

Occam's razor?

To paraphrase, "the simplest answer is usually the right one."

But never mind, I missed that you had already checked the switch.
Reading comprehension fail.

[theofam]

Problem solved. It was a bad wire going to the headlight bucket!  Soldered it up, and I have a neutral light again!  Thanks for everyone's help on the diode.

[Bodi]

Just to clear this up a bit, the diode won't kill the neutral light. No diode or an "open" diode means you will need to pull the clutch in to get the starter to work, even in neutral. With a "short" diode the neutral light comes on whenever the clutch is pulled in.
The diode just lets the neutral switch enable the starter as well as turn on the neutral light without the problem of the neutral light being on whenever the clutch is disengaged.

[cookindaddy]

+1 Bodi

The diode looks to be ok from your measurements. Your problem is elsewhere.