Topic: Dorothy III - CB750

[70CB750]

Thank you!

[70CB750]

Just documenting.

[70CB750]

The motor on my smithing forge died and I replaced it with a motor from the buffer.  To get the buffer back to business I made an adapter for a motor I took while ago from the table saw.  The original table saw motor was not up to the task for wood cutting, but the buffer is a mean beast now.

[70CB750]

Dorothy developed nasty jerking in 2nd gear.  I am trying to go around and use 3rd as much as possible, but there is a transmission job in near future for her.

[70CB750]

Doing 3000 miles checkup/tunup I snaped the bolt on cam cahin tensioner.  Luckily the F uses the very same - I just replaced it.

[70CB750]

Grabbed a cup of coffee at the gas station this morning and the sun made this kitchy perfect line up.

[Terry in Australia]

Nice pic mate! What were you doing drinking coffee at a gas station though? 

[70CB750]

Took a little detour. The bike never goes straight from point A to point B, must be something with the steering.

[Terry in Australia]

Yep, sounds like steering head bearings mate, I've got the same problem with all my bikes, on a hot day they'll veer into the local pub's car park, without any influence from me, or so it seems!

[70CB750]

New baffle plate for the exhaust with smaller holes.

It looks like a piece of meat grinder

[70CB750]

For future reference.

[deafcaferacer]

Getting caught up in this thread and enjoying the adventures you and Dorothy have been having, rutting deers and all.

[70CB750]

Thanks

[70CB750]

Over the summer I used 15W50 Mobil 1, Synthetic oil.  She had no problems with it and also I did not notice anything different after the change.

Yesterday I went back to Dino, local Autozone was out of 20W50 Castrol, I went with Mobil Delvac instead and the shifting is more difficult especially when cold.

In-te-re-sting 

[70CB750]

11 000 miles on replacement bearings in front wheel, I paid good money for that set, but apparently it came from some engineering challenged middle of nowhere.  Put the old pair back in.

 

Bearings disintegrated during removal process, getting the outer race out was a treat.

[70CB750]

Detail of bearing balls, no wonder the wheel was wobbly. 

[ekpent]

Do you remember the brand of the 'new' ones you just removed ?

[70CB750]

I will check the trash if I there is any name.

[70CB750]

6302 on the ball cover and Pyramid on the inner race.

Hope you don't have them

[Terry in Australia]

Pyramid sell heaps on eBay, I've bought their stuff without any issues, you didn't wash your wheels with a steam cleaner or pressure washer did you mate? I did that years ago on my first BMW R100RS and washed all the grease out, and the needle roller bearings looked like rusty nails when I pulled the axle out and they followed it out onto the driveway.

My next door neighbour did the same thing with all the needle roller bearings in his rear suspension set up on his Suzuki RM250 Motocross bike, he'd wash all the mud off with his Karcher pressure washer, and once again, washed all the grease out, and his bearings disintegrated. Cheers, Terry.  

[70CB750]

There was a plenty of grease left; my guess is the balls were not hard enough for some reason, it can happen.

[70CB750]

Now I am wondering if it was caused by me somehow, but assembling bearings and hub the way they fit together should not kill the bearing.

Tapered roller bearing will fail if tightened too much...puzzled

[Terry in Australia]

Yeah, they might have been a bad batch mate, who knows? If in doubt, spend the money and buy some quality bearings. Cheers, Terry.

[RAFster122s]

Da Filtar!

I know this is dredging up an old post like Lucky is known for doing...but I had not followed your thread during the build and had some input you might find helpful.
My 66 Volvo had used thin "pancake" style filters round metal encased of similar styling as your large oval. So, I recognized they restricted the intake and I bought four filters that were of similar diameter to my originals but were 4.5" high instead of 1.5" high. I had trouble with the media crushing causing the filter to slip between the plates. Create a lip in the top plate to locate the filter in its proper position. Another piece of metal, say soft easily worked like aluminum, can be glued (jb weld) to the top plate forming a 1/8 lip that is a snug fit to the filter. This will locate the filter evenly on the top plate. To prevent the crush the original filters used a metal (sheet metal wrapped into a cylinder, no welding or gluing needed) that formed a crush collar which stopped the filter from being torqued down too tight. It also used a wire mesh glued to metal plates that was stiff steel. This kept the plates from compressing the media too much. To maintain a clean exterior look you can use aluminum rod or steel music wire glued into the outer perimeter of the locator plate in the top cover. Just mind your dissimilar metals to prevent the corrosion from whatever material you use. The glue will isolate the metals for the most part...
BTW, the lip you previously formed can be like a donut unless you need the rigidity of the entire blank. Slip a small screw protector cover over the rod end or dip the rod end in liquid electrical tape (plasti-dip) to prevent "buzzing" (vibration noise) of the wire against the inside/bottom carb plate. This if properly sized will give you a little compression of the rubber gasket on both sides of the filter until the stops created by the wire come into play.
I tried using just PVC pipe as my spacer but, it would not handle the manifold heat since the exhaust was below it and deformed over time allowing the bolts to loosen, double nuts on the stud or bolt  formed a hard stop for the top plate when bolted to the bottom/inner plate. A thin oring  between the top plate and the bolt gave an air tight seal but it was overkill.

[70CB750]

I hammered out bushings from the spare swingarm to rebuild in the future, not sure how much life is left on the K3 I ride now.