Topic: Normal for crankshaft to be harder to rotate when ignition turned on?

[chrima]

Hi,

I am working on putting back together a 77 550k. The engine and carbs are from a 76 550k.

Anyway, got it mostly back together and am testing to see if I am getting spark. Seems I am only getting spark on the 2-3 plugs. My question isn't about that, it is just one thing I noticed when rotating the crank by hand it rotates fairly easily when I have the ignition key in the off position. As soon as I turn the ignition key on there is much more resistance. Is this normal?

On another note, I set the points as directed in the manual, but when trying to set the timing via the static method, it seems that the 12volt light never goes out on the 1-4 side of the points. Didn't get around to trying the 2-3 points yet. So, not sure what I screwed up there.

Any help would be appreciated. I just got my license and finished the safety course, so I am anxious to get this bike together and get out on the road.

Here is the bike when I bought it.

And here is how it looks now.

[FunJimmy]

My question isn't about that, it is just one thing I noticed when rotating the crank by hand it rotates fairly easily when I have the ignition key in the off position. As soon as I turn the ignition key on there is much more resistance. Is this normal?

I would assume that this added resistance is caused by energizing the alternator field coils.

[Fritz]

On another note, I set the points as directed in the manual, but when trying to set the timing via the static method, it seems that the 12volt light never goes out on the 1-4 side of the points. Didn't get around to trying the 2-3 points yet. So, not sure what I screwed up there.

The timing light should goe out when then points close. So it looks like either your point gaps are set too high or the points are toast not being able to close the ignition circuit.

Take off the "special washer" shaped like a large nut in order to get a look at the points cam. You'll see its high spot and the "levers" of the points. Put the "special washer" back on and mark the high spot on it.
The gaps should be set when the cam's high point is pushing the "levers" up.
If the light does not go out when the points close, try to clean them up by filing them flush.
If you decide to buy new points, you might want to read this:
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=59886.0

[dave500]

im with funjimmy on the alternators magnetism,you really need a strobe light to time these,a static light gets you in the ball park good enough to run,,then you MUST use a proper strobe timing light or itll never be perfect,ever.

[chrima]

im with funjimmy on the alternators magnetism,you really need a strobe light to time these,a static light gets you in the ball park good enough to run,,then you MUST use a proper strobe timing light or itll never be perfect,ever.

I thought it might be something like that although it seems like excessive resistance. In fact, using the electric starter, it even lags and struggles (battery fully charged). The motor sat for a long time and hasn't been run in who knows how long. Maybe it is due to that.

Anyway, I'll do as suggested with marking the high point. At this point, I am just trying to get it close so I can get it started and use the timing light.

Thanks for the help guys, I'll let you know how it goes tonight.

later,

Chris