Author Topic: clutch repaired. problem better but still persisting. (Read 3160 times)

MasterChief750 · « **on:** May 04, 2011, 04:59:22 PM »

ok so symptoms when i tor down my bike were intermittent spark firing on 3 cyl. low compression due to rings and head gasket and at redline at 75mph ~8500rpm. all the issues are fixed except the 75 mph. the correct sprockets are on it 15/41 (this is a 78 750k). so is my clutch toast? ive adjusted the clutch per the manual. engages correctly. im thinkin clutch is my assumption correct?

jonzen1977 · « **Reply #1 on:** May 04, 2011, 09:34:06 PM »

If your clutch is bad enough for the engine to be at 8500rpm, and only be going 75mph, then, I think you should be able to see the tach go up at a faster rate than the speedo. Should be considerably faster. Did you happen to use energy conserving oil? That will make it slip. Make sure label on the back of the oil bottle doesn't have "ENERGY CONSERVING" in the bottom half of the circle.
I just put a Barnett Clutch and springs (used the stock steel plates), in my 750, along with a new cable. works great and can be pulled with one finger.

dave500 · « **Reply #2 on:** May 05, 2011, 02:00:31 AM »

tacho/speedo speak with forked tongue?

KingCustomCycles.com · « **Reply #3 on:** May 05, 2011, 03:42:40 AM »

Check your speed with a GPS. I usually notice clutch problems in the lower gears long before I lose top end. Exhaust restrictions will cause what you describe. Also, make sure your timing advance mechanism is rotating freely and fully.

MasterChief750 · « **Reply #4 on:** May 05, 2011, 05:55:01 AM »

used honda motorcycle motorcycle oil. but dont know what the po put into it. and my exhaust is deff not restricted check my build thread. checked speed with gps not much difference. where does one get a quality clutch replacement. i cant afford a barnett and the rally will be here in 2 weeks

MasterChief750 · « **Reply #5 on:** May 05, 2011, 05:59:21 AM »

im gonna tear the clutch apart as soon as i locate/make a clutch nut socketill measure everything check the springs essentially follow the manual to a T and see if i can get it working.

MasterChief750 · « **Reply #6 on:** May 05, 2011, 08:58:41 AM »

What's the best reasonably priced clutch out there by the way.

KingCustomCycles.com · « **Reply #7 on:** May 05, 2011, 10:43:14 AM »

Its not the clutch.

4 BANGER · « **Reply #8 on:** May 05, 2011, 11:42:44 AM »

My clutch slips to at high speeds and its VERY noticeable.
At 95 mph I can feel the bike pulling as it should and then
at 100 mph the motor will start to rev all on its own. At 95 - 100 I could rev the motor to
the end of the tach and never gain an ounce of speed.
If its your clutch you can easy feel it.
(My clutch and springs are on order.)

MCRider · « **Reply #9 on:** May 05, 2011, 12:18:24 PM »

A set of OEM plates would be close to a set of Barnetts probably. I'd disassemble, clean the plates thouroughly with solvent and nylon bristle brush. Reassemble and just use new or new HD springs, save the cost of plates if thats an issue.

We used to use CB77 (305 SuperHawk) OEM spriings in CB750s. They are s skosh shorter, but stronger. Also, Barnett spring only are available from APE and usual suspects.

MasterChief750 · « **Reply #10 on:** May 05, 2011, 07:03:30 PM »

thanks mc that was the answer i was looking for. ill order a new set of springs and clean up the plates. i think at somepoint the clutc was incorrecty adlusted and allowed to slip a lot. at least thats what im assuming. ive gone through everything else and its the last thing to finnagle.

MCRider · « **Reply #11 on:** May 05, 2011, 07:32:11 PM »

Quote from: MasterChief750 on May 05, 2011, 07:03:30 PM

thanks mc that was the answer i was looking for. ill order a new set of springs and clean up the plates. i think at somepoint the clutc was incorrecty adlusted and allowed to slip a lot. at least thats what im assuming. ive gone through everything else and its the last thing to finnagle.

I can't say that will fix it. But based on your symptoms and budget, that's what I'd do. Good luck. Are you going for OEM springs or HD? I'd suggest the HD or CB77 springs.

dave500 · « **Reply #12 on:** May 06, 2011, 01:08:05 AM »

if you have a little sand blaster blast the steel discs and take the shine of them,it works.

MasterChief750 · « **Reply #13 on:** May 06, 2011, 09:15:38 PM »

for the blasting what type of grit would you recommend?

Retro Rocket · « **Reply #14 on:** May 06, 2011, 09:40:18 PM »

Quote from: MasterChief750 on May 05, 2011, 07:03:30 PM

thanks mc that was the answer i was looking for. ill order a new set of springs and clean up the plates. i think at somepoint the clutc was incorrecty adlusted and allowed to slip a lot. at least thats what im assuming. ive gone through everything else and its the last thing to finnagle.

What i don't understand is why you are "assuming" anything, a worn clutch is super easy to diagnose, you don't seem to be sure at all.?
When a clutch is screwed the revs will rise easily with no gain in speed, you will be sitting at a certain speed, twist the throttle and the engine will rev the same way it would on wet grass, as if the rear has no traction with only a slight if any gain in speed. This is a very clear problem and at this point, after reading everything you have said i have some doubt it is your clutch. I also find it extremely hard to believe that any Honda 4{sohc} could lift its front wheel in every gear unless it has around 150 HP {almost impossible with a Sohc} and a reasonably talented rider, also this would be even more impossible with a screwed clutch {couldn't be done at all}. If i were you i would take a run to your nearest competent bike shop and find out for sure, it sounds like a tuning issue to me.... Not trying to create any conflict here but a few guys have pointed to tune or advance mechanism, thats where i would start looking....

MasterChief750 · « **Reply #15 on:** May 06, 2011, 10:06:14 PM »

tune has been done and advance mechanism has been serviced. both done by "competent bike shop" mechanic said "feels like ur clutch is slipping a bit. the po of the bike had the clutch adjusted wrong so that it was partially disengaged. it kinda grabs when the bike is cold but as it warms up it slips more and more. i dont have any experience to compare it to but going down the list the clutch is the last one. as for the front wheel coming up this was from my riding buddy and he may or may not be stretching the truth. the bike keeps revving but the speed peters out.

Retro Rocket · « **Reply #16 on:** May 06, 2011, 10:31:16 PM »

Pull the clutch out and take some pics, a worn clutch is reasonably obvious.....

dave500 · « **Reply #17 on:** May 07, 2011, 12:17:00 AM »

Quote from: MasterChief750 on May 06, 2011, 09:15:38 PM

for the blasting what type of grit would you recommend?

i use just white silica sand,i take a 20 litre bucket to the local garden supply yard and fill it for a coupla bucks,wear a good dust mask,silica almost = asbestos!

MasterChief750 · « **Reply #18 on:** May 07, 2011, 10:54:06 AM »

I should have some time later ill prolly pop er out.

MasterChief750 · « **Reply #19 on:** May 08, 2011, 12:32:27 PM »

did a full tuneup. carbs and ignition are spot on. paid a little more attention to the rev counter. off the line it moves but then it feels like it gives out but the revs just keep going. ordered heavy duty clutch springs and a new clutch gasket. will be making a clutch nut tool or borrowing one from the local shop. if stuff is shot ill tear into my spare motor and take what i need from that

KingCustomCycles.com · « **Reply #20 on:** May 08, 2011, 02:24:28 PM »

Keep changing the symptoms and our solutions will keep changing also. Good luck.

MasterChief750 · « **Reply #21 on:** May 08, 2011, 06:00:10 PM »

dont believe i changed my symptoms

MasterChief750 · « **Reply #22 on:** May 10, 2011, 08:00:49 AM »

ok dont have time for pics but there seems to be a flaky film on the friction discs, they all are within spec but the steel discs look burned? for the lack of a better work. like they were exposed to a high amount of heat. ill have time for pics a bit later. i failed miserably at making a clutch nut tool. will try again to put it back on. just put a little nick in it using a punch. And do clutches usually stink? It was smelly in there. The friction discs are very dark in color. I don't have anything to compare to so I don't know what they should look like. Ill post up pics in a bit.

MasterChief750 · « **Reply #23 on:** May 11, 2011, 07:27:51 AM »

Camera is dead so no pics yet but was just thinking if I took out the spring loaded anti chatter disc in my clutch and added another friction disc would it be worth while ir just keep it stock?

MasterChief750 · « **Reply #24 on:** May 16, 2011, 07:12:09 AM »

Ok guys u were kinda right. Pulled the clutch. Didn't look terrible but some of the friction discs were blued from heat and 2 were warped. The b disc had chunks missing and the clutch feels much better now. Now the dillemma. Its increased my top end by about 5 mph. The advance is working properly but I will disassemble and lube it. Im using an electronic ignition. Plugs look a little dark. Ill pull and replace. Could a rich condition cause this? Ill triple check darn sync but it was spot on last week. Compression is exellent. Again sprockets are 15/41. Im glad I went into the clutch after seeing the condition of it. Im pullin hairs people. I haven't heard anyone else having this issue. Barrels just got a good hone and new rings over the winter. Spit some ideas at me and I will check em. Aside from splitting the cases. Thanks for your help guys everyone here is really the best

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Author Topic: clutch repaired. problem better but still persisting. (Read 3160 times)

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