Author Topic: '76 CB550k: First clutch job questions (Read 1737 times)

Nortstudio · « **on:** May 07, 2011, 04:16:42 PM »

When I got my 550k last year I inherited a new set of cork clutch plates and a gasket. I assume the PO had planned to replace it one of these years, but never got around to it.

I have had my share of frustrations with the clutch adjustment, so I'm not dying to dig into it. But rather than wimp out, ive decided to dive in and take advantage of this "cheap" fix. I have new springs on the way, so all in, it's only costing me about $15 (as far as I know)....

My questions:
1) is there anything else I need besides cork plates, gasket and springs?
2) Do I need to have the bike completely drained of oil, or can it be leaned on it's stand?
3) do I need a special clutch "holder" tool?
4) anything else you can think of...

Thanks so much in advance for any and all advice.

Scott

Nortstudio · « **Reply #1 on:** May 08, 2011, 05:48:10 PM »

I've searched a bunch, and although I have found many people talking about making their own DIY tools, none of them were on this site, or mentioning SOHC-4s.

I'm going to assume I don't need the special tool.

Madmax01 · « **Reply #2 on:** May 08, 2011, 07:35:38 PM »

I'm getting ready to take on the same project. Do you know where the PO got the gasket? I can't find it anywhere. During my search activity, I came to the conclusion that you do need a special clutch nut tool. You can make it with a dremel and a socket or buy it from e-bay from a guy in the UK. (The other option is a screw driver and a hammer, but it looks dicey!) The only tip I can pass on from my local vintage shop is to soak the plates for at least 10 minutes in 10w30 before you install them. This will prevent them from slipping as the plates try to get oil when they are first installed.

Good luck and keep us posted. It doesn't look too hard. Right???

phil71 · « **Reply #3 on:** May 08, 2011, 08:24:13 PM »

Hey man! Howzitgoin? if you do the clutches while the basket is still in the bike, you shouldn't need the 'special tool'. Just be sure to keep your old ones in the order and direction they're in now so you can look at the new ones and compare. I've found that the info in the manual is not always dead on cuz honda made little changes, even mid year sometimes, to improve clutch performance and longevity.

MasterChief750 · « **Reply #4 on:** May 08, 2011, 08:44:30 PM »

you need the clutch nut tool to take the clutch center out and to remove the clutch plates. at least thats how the manual and the parts diagram make it seem.

dave500 · « **Reply #5 on:** May 08, 2011, 08:51:38 PM »

you dont need a special tool,the basket is retained with a circlip,so youll need circlip pliers.

Nortstudio · « **Reply #6 on:** May 09, 2011, 03:55:22 AM »

Thanks guys. I should have been more specific. The tool I was looking at was a type of clamp to hold the basket together.

I have my circlip pliers ready and waiting. The nut tool is something I've seen made from a socket (same as the vintage Vespas).

Does all the oil need to be dumped before getting in there? Or does the side stand lean offer enough drain away from the clutch side?

Madmax, I have no idea where he got the gasket. He gave me a box of only a few things, but the plates and gasket were there. He was debating whether to keep the bike as an over abused daily commuter, so I am assuming that it needs to be done at some point. He never fixed anything else, but he had THESE parts.... Hmmm.

I'll be giving this a shot sooner than I'd like I suspect

Appreciate your help.

MasterChief750 · « **Reply #7 on:** May 09, 2011, 05:36:58 AM »

Leaning the bike on the sidestand should be enough. Mines a 750 I don't know if there will be.much difference. I had a little oil come out but very little. Have a pan handy if any comes out. You don't need to take the basket out to replace the plates unless you feel the need to take the basket out.

Nortstudio · « **Reply #8 on:** May 09, 2011, 05:41:52 AM »

Thanks Chief. I want to replace the springs too - still no need to take the basket out? I'd love to hear that's the case

MasterChief750 · « **Reply #9 on:** May 09, 2011, 06:09:58 AM »

as long as the 750 clutch and the 550 clutch are not that different the springs come out before the clutch plates. i didnt take the basket out but if you were going to the basket would be the absolute last part of the clutch to come out. again this is on a 750 but the 2 should not be that different

Nortstudio · « **Reply #10 on:** May 09, 2011, 06:12:53 AM »

Agreed. I think they should be at least fairly similar in the procedure.

Thanks Chief!

MasterChief750 · « **Reply #11 on:** May 09, 2011, 06:38:39 AM »

yup it was my firt time too but it was so bad. dont have it back together yet but should be straight forward. dont shoot me if you take that cover off and 2 qts come pouring out. id let the bike sit overnight on the sidestand before taking the cover off. and dont forget that impact driver. made pie of them phippips for me.

Nortstudio · « **Reply #12 on:** May 09, 2011, 07:15:43 AM »

I replaced the stews with akeem heads a while back - so at least I have that going for me

bikebitzofvt · « **Reply #13 on:** May 09, 2011, 07:17:57 AM »

If you can manage a way to safely tilt the bike a few more degrees off center than the stand you'd be able to save the oil. However, if you're replacing a smoked clutch you'd likely want to replace the oil & filter anyways... As those plates degrade they leave a lot of particles in the oil.

If they are OEM style cork friction plates (Honda, Vesrah) soak them in oil at least overnight before installing them. If they are kevlar style plates (EBC comes to mind) just smear them with oil during installation.

If the clutch has been left slipping for a long period of time you might need steel plates. Look for obvious wear, measure thickness and check for warpage by pinching two plates together at various points to see if the part opposite the "pinch" gaps apart. Under poor conditions (lots of jackrabbit throttle conditions, insufficient oil, etc) the inner and outer baskets can wear, or notch. This condition can make it difficult to properly adjust the clutch and should be inspected closely while you have it apart.

If you've downloaded the 500 / 550 manual from here on the site just jump to page 117. That will take you right to the 550 clutch section, it's very straight forward. If you haven't it's highly recommended !!! Here's the link: http://www.mediafire.com/?uznwn3ihx0i

Good luck & holla back if you run into any trouble!

Nortstudio · « **Reply #14 on:** May 09, 2011, 07:30:10 AM »

Tha ka BikeBitz,

I don't think I've had a lot of slipping, I just figured I had the plates and gasket - and should take advantage of them. The plates were not in a container - so I'm not sure what make they are. Not knowing anything about this - I have no frame of reference.

I have the manual - and have read it. But I usually check here and other sources for tips - because the manila often leaves out a critical piece of the puzzle to making the whole job simple

These are what they look like. The 2n photo shows one plate with slightly larger "teeth" than the others.

dave500 · « **Reply #15 on:** May 09, 2011, 12:25:42 PM »

the larger tooth plate is the first one out,if you can sand blast the steel plates to take the glaze of them it helps a lot.

Nortstudio · « **Reply #16 on:** May 09, 2011, 12:30:50 PM »

Thanks Dave,

And ideas for cleaning them off if I don't have a sandblaster? One day....

Does brake cleaner Acetone or some other fluid work? Or some Emory/sand paper?

dave500 · « **Reply #17 on:** May 09, 2011, 01:00:19 PM »

rough the steels up with some fine wet and dry sand paper evenly do it wet,if you look close at them they are a stamped out peice and you can see a little sharper edge one side?when you put it back together have them all aligned with that edge facing the same way in or out,i also line that oil cut out in them all together aswell,some people like to stagger it.

Nortstudio · « **Reply #18 on:** May 09, 2011, 02:46:03 PM »

I am assuming you are talking about just the steel plates - because I don't see any sharper edges or oil cuts. I don't have them out of the bike yet.

Here in Brooklyn, wrenching on the curb, it's gather all the info first, and then race like mad to get it done before alternate side of the street parking

Thanks!

phil71 · « **Reply #19 on:** May 09, 2011, 02:54:04 PM »

and the loss of light! dude, next time you're tackling somethin like this, just call me.. i have room you can use.. air tools... and an old clock radio that gets NPR

Nortstudio · « **Reply #20 on:** May 09, 2011, 03:03:50 PM »

I probably will. I haven't dug in yet - I have a few other things on the list that need completing before this - but with this nice weather (which seems like the first time in FOREVER) it's hard not to get excited and line up all the fixes

dave500 · « **Reply #21 on:** May 10, 2011, 12:08:43 AM »

i forgot your on the street with this work.

Nortstudio · « **Reply #22 on:** May 10, 2011, 04:12:08 AM »

Oh yes, the street for me. But with the weather getting nice, I'm ok with it. It's just the parking regulations to worry about. Better have that fix done, or else you will have to hobble across the street with it

MasterChief750 · « **Reply #23 on:** May 10, 2011, 08:58:28 AM »

Why not pull the bike in your apartment

Nortstudio · « **Reply #24 on:** May 10, 2011, 03:36:54 PM »

Well, last year was because it was on the 4th floor. This year wouldn't be that bad, but even getting it to the second floor would require hiring a gang of Samoans each time I wanted to move it

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Author Topic: '76 CB550k: First clutch job questions (Read 1737 times)