Topic: **Updated 5/20/13** In over MY head 1975 cb550 cafe. thanks...Dave500, Twotired

[Bankerdanny]

XS: check out this guy: http://www.motolane.com/ He has a '75 in his yard and he should be able to supply the carb boots if you still need them.

[Bankerdanny]

is there some magical tool im supposed to use?

An air impact driver.

You don't want to use an air or electric impact on an allen head screw. That's a recipe for a stripped head and ruined screw (go ahead, ask me how I know this). You want a hand impact driver. Something like this: http://www.harborfreight.com/7-piece-reversible-impact-driver-set-93481.html

You should be able to get one at Sears or just about any Autozone, Pepboys, etc.

[TwoTired]

is there some magical tool im supposed to use?

An air impact driver.

You don't want to use an air or electric impact on an allen head screw. That's a recipe for a stripped head and ruined screw (go ahead, ask me how I know this).

I've been doing it this way without any damage for over 30 years.  And my local MC shop has been doing it that same way since the 70's.  He does each and every one with the air impact driver, and there have literally been thousands of them.  Certainly, if you use the big 1/2 drive impact driver and turn up the torque and air pressure like a fool, you can shear/strip things out while tightening. 

But, one can always damage machinery with a 5 or 10 lb sledge hammer wailing on it willy-nilly.  Not to hard to avoid that with a bit of thought.

[xsmooth69x]

The last time I went there was last summer and the yard seemed bare of anything worth any value.  It was just broken wheels, rusty frames, and deteriorating seats.  Have they collected a bunch more?  Wait, daughter?  Probably too young for me anyway.  lol

I have two roommates, so the bikes aren't all mine.  There's also an old Yamaha being added to the garage and a Honda scooter in the shed.  I'm running out of room fast!  At least I own the house, so I can tell them to go to hell.  lol

What area are you in?

my parents house is in chanhassen. thats where i have the bike in the 3rd bay of the garage. i have a house in mankato because i go to mnsu.

ya idk man if sport wheels have been buying everything up but they are full of good stuff. you have to go way in the back too in the semi trailers thats where you find all the NOS parts. like the stuff straight off the boats from japan back in the 60-70s their like time capsules.

i got screwed a little too on the throttle cable. i actually took the time and pulled one off the bike then i found a small shipping container thing on the property with all NOS cables of every kind still in the plastic bags. i would image they are $10 a pop too if you took them out of the bag

[xsmooth69x]

so now i have 4 happy rebuilt carbs 

Looks like you've made a minor mistake on the carb rebuild.
Bottom carb is clearly No1 cylinder as it has the choke lever on it. Top left looks like No2, middle top No3 and top right No4. However it that is correct it looks like you've fitted the float bowls from No2 onto No3 and vice versa. The drain plugs on the bowls always point outwards so No1 and No2 should point to the left of the bike and No3 and No4 to the right, can't see No1 due to shadow but as No4 is correct it must be ok.
Also make sure the new carb has the same stamping number on the body as the rest, IIRC it's on the front where the inlet rubber connects on the small webbing just above that area. The number must match the original carbs, there are carbs which look identical to yours but aren't off the same model, CB500 carbs are a prime example.

As for the fork problem, I seem to recall when I was a Honda mechanic in the 70s and 80s that the damper rod at the bottom of the fork sliders which the allen bolts screws into has a 17 or 19mm bolt shape in the crown of it, I do remember using an engine bolt which was welded to another to hold this in place whilst someone else removed the allen bolt. Even with air guns sometimes they used to spin in place, I may be wrong on this and it may have been later Hondas I used that trick on, not having any spare forks in pieces right now I can't say for certain but if anyone can check they'd be able to tell you. You may have to use the broom handle trick if I'm wrong or if that fails to work you could drill off the head of the allen bolt and remove the rest when you have the damper rod out of the slider.

holly batman you are totally right about the carbs!!!! totally didnt think the bottoms where diff.....

i will check the # on the carbs but i pulled the carb off of a 75 honda cb550 so i dont think they are going to be different. made sure it wasn't a super sport either because i think they are diff....

[xsmooth69x]

XS: check out this guy: http://www.motolane.com/ He has a '75 in his yard and he should be able to supply the carb boots if you still need them.

thanks for the link but sport wheels has a ton of them

[xsmooth69x]

is there some magical tool im supposed to use?

An air impact driver.

You don't want to use an air or electric impact on an allen head screw. That's a recipe for a stripped head and ruined screw (go ahead, ask me how I know this). You want a hand impact driver. Something like this: http://www.harborfreight.com/7-piece-reversible-impact-driver-set-93481.html

You should be able to get one at Sears or just about any Autozone, Pepboys, etc.

wow that thing is cool i might just buy one to buy one

i went out and bought a compressor tank and impact wrenches...... but i had to go to work so i didnt get time to F with it.

[xsmooth69x]

i will be back at my bike Friday..... so ill have more build progress then

for now at my other house im going to go over and replace everything needed on my wiring harness.

last owner thought he was an electrical engineer..... post pics of this beast later

just wanted to make sure and thank everyone so far who is involved on my build thread 

[Toxic]

Nice build you have going.
Let us know when you get the forks apart, curious to see if they are indeed bent.

good luck

[TwoTired]

Nice build you have going.
Let us know when you get the forks apart, curious to see if they are indeed bent.

good luck

The pics in reply #28 show the frame down tubes are bent.  After the crash, the front end bits were replaced with straight ones.  IMO

[skamagedon]

when you run into electrical that need replacing, let me know. there are many options to rectify and regulate these beasts for way less than stock and aftermarket

[xsmooth69x]

sorry everyone i have been so busy with summer class its been insane!!!

i will post more pics this sunday!!

i have sanded down the entire frame, swing arm, and tank

i did get the forks apart!!!! the blow torch did the trick it was awesome. got it hot enough till my spit sizzled waited like 20 sec and they came right off.

the forks are not bent what so ever. buuttttttttt the fork oil was very very very old and smelled like ass. there was maybe a quarter of a quart of oil between the 2. it was literally maybe a cup of oil (cooking measurements) so maybe thats what made my bike look like it was short or saggy?

next i will be......
-changing out my wheel and stem bearings
-clear coating my frame and swing arm
-painting my tank gunmetal then tagging a rising sun pattern graffiti style on it, clear coat
-griding, prepping my purchased used headers, 1500 degree paint then warping them with tan header wrap.
-cleaning the wheels then painting the spokes black to give the black rim chrome lip look
-change my confusion with the carb bowls so they all point in the right direction then assemble them all back onto the rack.
-clean engine prep and paint with high temp moto paint the center section of the motor.
-re assemble forks with new for seals

going to the junk yard for a new lower fork.... one was pitted bad so i tried to grind it out and the pits got bigger.... wrecked it lol

things to purchase..........
-tank lid gasket
-everything needed to rebuild the rear brake drum
-front brake pads and piston rebuild kit
-SS brake lines
-clip on handle bars
-cut and shorten my rear fender
-cut and shorten my front over the tire fender
-handle bar ends mirrors
-mod the control light bulbs to LEDs the things that the gauge cluster is on or i might just ditch it overall.
-headlight mount
-headlight h4 conversion (im going to get an fleabay 7inch light with a halo in it) yup im going to that guy lol

^ i have a 35w 6k hid kid for this too 

^bullet style small led turn signals (if i dont do the fleda tron clone)
-some kind of vintage looking tail light or might just do the fleda led strip replica with the radiantz premium 100 led dual yellow red lights ($120 for a fleda tron tail light clone)
-brake, clutch levers
-rear passenger foot pegs
-tires, tubes, strips, stems (labor  )
-left hand controls
-throttle twisty thing
-foam grips with grip tape over them (make it look super old school)
-exhaust gaskets
-oil filter
-battery and strap
-re build the stock gauges and replace the old green layout with this!!!


^^get these printed really nice and laminated
-get a new bottom of the triple tree thing because there is a peg that is snapped off u can see in the pics on post #28
-air filter for stock air box
-spark plug wires and the thing that connects to the spark plug. the coupler thing that connects the spark plug wire to the twinkie size things under the tank that the spark plug wires go into.
-maybe new wire harness....
-17/37 front and rear sprocket and 530 100 link chain and whatever you need to lube it (maybe some light weight sprockets if i can find them without someone custom making them)
-clean and repaint the monroe shocks i bought with the original yellow
-2x old school white oval racing plate (that i will distress then tag the number 69 on it and clear coat it. these will be placed over the sections where the side covers will be
-get a seat that is actually correct for my bike, when i bought the bike the seat sitting next to it i thought was for my bike but i guess it was just some random other cb seat from a different year cb550?.... then im going to cut the foam down are reupholster it with a deep red pleather with white diamond stitching. im going to take a base layer put a small layer of memory foam then put the top player on and diamond stitch it so the diamonds poof up a little (got the heavy duty sowing machine that i can do this with  )

Then i might take my mint point cover make a silicon mold and take some smooth on crystal clear urethane casting so i can have a sweet clear point cover so you can see the stuff behind it. if its successful and they turn out great i might sell them on the forums. i think someone back in the day did this but since ill make the custom mold myself re pouring molds will be easy and i can mix colors in it if anyone wants.

might even try to figure out how to wire some leds in the points space so they there is a back light to see inside. do the points spark when they run? like can you see it work?

might experiment and make clear carburetor float bowls how cool would that be!!! (this might not be possible unless i can figure out some kind of moon material that i can use that is petroleum resistant, uv resistant, glass clear, heat resistant stuff)

i will also modify the muffler i have making it shorter to make it look like a moto jp pipe. (this will be a whole new thread to work out the details  )

and anything else i need to purchase if my cylinder that isent getting good compression dosnt let loose and start being nice 

also i will get back and look at all my recipes to keep the pricing out of my build for future reference when some other college kid decided to do this then decieds that this is turning out to be hella expensive 

also i need a half helmet and a real pair of halcyon goggles, a vintage cafe jacket or just regular moto body armor, and gloves

[fastbroshi]

spark plug wires and the thing that connects to the spark plug. the coupler thing that connects the spark plug wire to the twinkie size things under the tank that the spark plug wires go into.
maybe new wire harness....

I think you're talking about the spark plug boots?  And those twinkie size things are the coils. Good to hear the fork tubes weren't bent, but it was best you get them apart anyway to take stock of their condition.

[xsmooth69x]

spark plug wires and the thing that connects to the spark plug. the coupler thing that connects the spark plug wire to the twinkie size things under the tank that the spark plug wires go into.
maybe new wire harness....

I think you're talking about the spark plug boots?  And those twinkie size things are the coils. Good to hear the fork tubes weren't bent, but it was best you get them apart anyway to take stock of their condition.

lol while you posted this i keep on editing the things to do list

but ya they are all cleaned like they are brand new. there is no pitting no anything on the top fork tubes i was very very surprised 

[xsmooth69x]

when you run into electrical that need replacing, let me know. there are many options to rectify and regulate these beasts for way less than stock and aftermarket

what do you mean when you say this sir? 

[steelpig]

I hate to be a buzz kill, but before you go to far, check those down tubes.  I think, as others have mentioned, they are slightly off.

[Roach Carver]

^ +1

[fastbroshi]

Wouldn't be too hard to fix, they aren't that far out of whack.  A couple of come-alongs should do the trick.

[xsmooth69x]

I hate to be a buzz kill, but before you go to far, check those down tubes.  I think, as others have mentioned, they are slightly off.

sorry i still dont understand WTF to look for?!?!?!?!

i took the top tubes like stated above rolled them on my pool table and they are not warped. what do i look for on the bottom tubes?...... 

[fastbroshi]

No, he's talking about the frame tubes that go down in front of the motor - they look slightly bent in according to your pics with the yardstick.

[xsmooth69x]

well are they bent?

i mean you would see a waaaayyyyyyy larger bow on the frame against that yard stick to be able to move the front forks so back that you would notice it by the naked eye......

then again im not an expert but deductive reasoning would tells me that it would need to be bent a hell of a lot more to make it visible like that from a picture.

im going to go to sportwheels and take a tape measure and measure how i measured my bike and compare the measurements on their super mint museum bikes

i mean i can kind of see where u all might think its bent but its where the 2 tubes of the frame connected with pop rivets. if it is bent it is an incredibly small bend.... and if so will it really effect the performance or ride. i just think its such a slight bend it couldnt possibly effect anything? i mean a 300lb person riding this bike for 30 years hitting pot holes could bend it...........

if they are i need to get a new one swapped out titled and ground down again 

i bought this bike from sportwheel so they will swap that shiat out!

what else should i look for.... i dont want to squeeze those new fork seals into something that is F'ed and having to possibly buying new ones because they are crazy hard to get out without possibly damaging them.

i am not criticizing anyone i am very humble and appreciative and respect everyone on these forums and the forums for the wealth of knowledge, information, and comments everyone has given me.

again thank you adam

i do very much appreciate constructive criticism and im serious 

[fastbroshi]

well are they bent?

i mean you would see a waaaayyyyyyy larger bow on the frame against that yard stick to be able to move the front forks so back that you would notice it by the naked eye......

then again im not an expert but deductive reasoning would tells me that it would need to be bent a hell of a lot more to make it visible like that from a picture.

The bow in the downtubes was just pointed out as it may be indicative of other parts of the frame, like the steering neck, being skewed.  That would affect the way the bike handles for sure.  Just changing the steering neck angle 1 degree forward or back would alter the handling, not to mention side to side.   So you've probably isolated the prob with the forks, that can be fixed.  But what good would that be with a tweaked frame?  It might still handle oddly and dogtrack all over the place.

[maduncle]

Man - great thread.

I just read it all from #1 to the last post and I don't think my feeble brain could take in all that I have now learn't about bent bits on bikes.

But - I love the build and I want to do a 500 next, so I am going to keep following this one for sure, xsmooth69x - thanks for the pictures and all the detailed posts, you are doing a great job and I love your tank finish ideas too.

[Tete]

You know you're a gear nut when you can identify mis matching parts over the internet in shotty photos.  Not only identify but also determine which goes where. 

 

Fantastic.

Tete

[TwoTired]

well are they bent?

Yes,

i mean you would see a waaaayyyyyyy larger bow on the frame against that yard stick to be able to move the front forks so back that you would notice it by the naked eye......

It's the headstock angle that is of concern.  The down tubes are just and evidence pointer.

Lets say the headstock has been angularly tweaked 1 degree.   At three inches from the fulcrum point, that's about 1/16 inch of movement.  But that same 1 degree at 24 inches (headstock center to front axle) is about 1/2 inch.  Do you have a protractor?   Measure the magnitudes yourself.

Do you seriously believe you can eyeball the front headstock on the frame and notice a 1/8 to 1/4 bend?
That's why I told you to measure with front axle to down tube distance with the forks on.  The headstock angle determines the axle position, assuming the forks and triple trees are straight.  If you have verified that the forks are straight, what does that leave to explain the axle to frame distance discrepancy?

The easiest fix was if the forks or trees were bent, you could simply replace or straighten them.   (Likely what was done after the original crash.  Didn't you get the bike from a wrecking yard?  Or, was that in another thread I read on the forum?)

then again im not an expert but deductive reasoning would tells me that it would need to be bent a hell of a lot more to make it visible like that from a picture.

You are in denial and rationalizing, not using deductive reasoning, and are simply filtering what you don't want to hear, IMO.

im going to go to sportwheels and take a tape measure and measure how i measured my bike and compare the measurements on their super mint museum bikes

Good idea to verify your information sources, and get first hand measurement data.

i mean i can kind of see where u all might think its bent but its where the 2 tubes of the frame connected with pop rivets. if it is bent it is an incredibly small bend.... and if so will it really effect the performance or ride. i just think its such a slight bend it couldnt possibly effect anything? i mean a 300lb person riding this bike for 30 years hitting pot holes could bend it...........

Perhaps you will believe after your first tank slapper?

if they are i need to get a new one swapped out titled and ground down again   

Blame yourself, you had plenty of warning.

what else should i look for.... i dont want to squeeze those new fork seals into something that is F'ed and having to possibly buying new ones because they are crazy hard to get out without possibly damaging them.

You can reassemble the front end dry and without seals.  Then do your comparative measurements.

Or, you can shoot the messenger.  It's a time honored tradition.

Good luck!