Topic: Brake squeal that has me stumped

[Ringo]

Hey folks, looking for some fresh ideas, because I'm all out. 

Last weekend, my caliper seal sprung a leak and dumped brake fluid all over the assembly and rotor.  I've got it sealed nicely now, but a nasty squeal persists.  When I cleaned everything the first time, it looked like the brake pads had absorbed a good amount of fluid.  Since then I've had the brakes disassembled half a dozen times trying to clean the remaining fluid from everything.  I've scrubbed the pads with brake cleaner, soaked them in acetone, taken a torch to them to boil the fluid out, and still nothing.  I've also scrubbed the rotor numerous times and heated it as well to try and boil off the fluid.  None of this has done any good though.  The squeal is as nasty as it was when the seal went.  Anybody got any good tips for remedying this besides new pads?  Thanks!

Edit: I've also tried some brake quiet spray on the back of the pads...

[domer]

new pads are it... doubt you'll ever get all the fluid out of the old ones, i didnt even bother trying. im not sure you could consider the old ones safe either, brake fluid is some nasty #$%*, eats paint, clothes (dont ask how i know) id hate to see what it would eventually to to pads...

[TwoTired]

Contaminated pads must be replaced.  They can't ever be 100% cleaned.  Heat from braking draws the contaminants from deep in the pad to the surface.

And, before the new pads contact the rotor, clean that 9 or 10 times, as well.  May even have to abrade the rotor surface to remove any glazing.

If your caliper piston has pitting, that will have to be replaced, too.  As, that can affect retraction leading to increased rotor heating.

Finally, make sure the stationary pads is adjusted to .006 in. clearance.

[flybox1]

new pads, definitely, if they get soiled
you can also:
cross drill, chamfer and deglaze your rotor surface.
get a new plastic bumper washer for between the puck and piston.
with the edge of a file, create vertical slots into the pad surface.

[Ringo]

Thanks guys.  New pads it is.  The rotor was drilled and deglazed with only about 100 miles on it since, and maybe 10 with the contaminated pads.  I'm also running a phenolic piston, so no worries about pitting.

[TwoTired]

Even 10 miles with contaminated pads means the rotor needs to be recleaned/deglazed, IMO.

Maybe you'll get lucky.

Cheers,

[flybox1]

slightly rough the new pad surface with some emory paper before you install.
clean your rotor well w brake cleaner and give the new pads some time to embed in the disc.

[Ringo]

Thanks TT, I'll give it a good inspection.

[B.O.X.N.I.F.E.]

And replace whatever goop you've got in there with this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/DOW-CORNING-Laboratory-High-Vacuum-Grease-976V-Stopcock-/270693824811?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f069bf92b#ht_1857wt_1139

It's what Honda wanted in there and there's finally someone selling little tubs of it, instead of the expensive squeeze tube.

[dave500]

i use silicon sealant on the edges of both pads,let it set,that stops squealing dead,its flexible enough to allow proper brake function.