Assuming decent straight & well manufactured parts, I have found the following procedure to work very well to remove stiction on my 750. It comes directly from Randakk's Cycle Shack website and is written specifically for the GL1000 (which is the front end that my 750 has) but most of the tips and steps should apply to a stock front end. Maybe it will be of interest to some. . . .
From mister Randakk :
Removing Stiction from GL1000 Front Forks
GL1000 forks are notorious for stiction...especially if you use inferior, aftermarket fork seals. A bigger problem: careless re-assembly of front end components that can introduce additional stiction. The typical scenario is putting some "bind" into the forks by the manner in which the front axle is secured on the left side. This often happens after front tire work by sloppy mechanics. The GL1000 is very sensitive to this detail!
Here's how to remedy. Keep in mind that the sequence and order of this procedure is very critical:
1. Start with the bike on a level concrete floor on the centerstand. Put a small floor jack under the front of the engine (with a very thin board to protect the engine). Jack up the bike just enough so that the weight is off the front tire. Warning: jacking beyond the point that the rear tire contacts the ground will lever the bike off the centerstand and cause a nasty spill.
2. For extra safety, run 2 tie-down straps down from the ceiling to the handlebars.
3. Loosen all of the following in this order but do not remove:
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Left side, front axle cap pinch nuts (left as viewed by the rider). There are 4 of these. Make sure you've loosened these 4 nuts enough so that pressure is off the retainer and the left fork lower ("slider") is free to "float" relative to the axle. Test to make sure the slider can move side-to-side relative to the axle.
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All 6 of the bolts that secure the fender
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Lower fork stanchion attach bolts (secure the fork tubes to the lower triple clamp).
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Top fork stanchion Allen bolts (secure the fork tubes to the upper triple clamp).
4. Next, remove the fork caps to relieve the pressure from the fork springs.
5. Carefully lower the front of the bike with the jack until the fork is fully compressed. Be sure you have enough slack in the safety tie-downs to allow full compression. As the front end is lowered, carefully observe the action of the brake hoses and speedo cable to make sure they are not put into jeopardy by this extreme compression.
6. Lightly tap the upper fork tubes in several spots with a soft mallet.
7. Carefully tighten all of the fasteners in the following order. Very important: be sure the fork tubes are at the same relative height inside the triple clamps. Normally, they should be flush with the top of the upper triple clamp.
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Lower triple clamp pinch bolts
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Top triple clamp pinch bolts
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Left side axle pinch nuts
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Fender attach bolts.
8. This is a good time to make sure your fork oil is at the correct level. With the fork fully compressed and the fork springs removed, I run 160mm of free air space above the oil. This is a more accurate level of filling the forks than the factory suggests in the manual. Their method is approximately 6 oz when you drain the forks... 6.8 oz when you do a complete overhaul.
9. Raise the bike and replace the front springs. You will have to loosen the top triple clamp pinch bolts again to reinsert the cap. Re-tighten the top pinch bolts.
10. Critical: Make sure you have adequate clearance on either side of the left front brake rotor relative to the caliper hanger. Adjust the axle as necessary for adequate rotor clearance. If adjustment is necessary, make the smallest possible adjustment. There is a feeler gauge in the OEM toolkit for measuring this clearance.
11. Road test.
12. Make a careful mental note of the positioning of the left front axle attachment, make a mark or take a close-up picture for future reference.
