Topic: CB550 Salt Flat Racer!

[754]

Having a bit more offset, on one side is a good thing. building a disc center (carrier) is not hard, just adds cost, the less offset in carrier the faster  to make.
 I checked my Morris mag, sideplates(bearing plates) are 5 mm thick. I think they should be no thinner than 4mm these are Added on each side, so in between, the disc and wheel hub.
 I think when the Kimtabs came out theu may have used Hurst Airhart rotors.
 I think on the rear there is way more room, just the front is  a bit cramped, are you wanting to run the stock type speeedo drive?

[B.O.X.N.I.F.E.]

You might be able to adapt one of these?

sheesh, about as much resistance as a razorblade through butter huh? where'd you find this TT?

Having a bit more offset, on one side is a good thing. building a disc center (carrier) is not hard, just adds cost, the less offset in carrier the faster  to make.
 I checked my Morris mag, sideplates(bearing plates) are 5 mm thick. I think they should be no thinner than 4mm these are Added on each side, so in between, the disc and wheel hub.
 I think when the Kimtabs came out theu may have used Hurst Airhart rotors.
 I think on the rear there is way more room, just the front is  a bit cramped, are you wanting to run the stock type speeedo drive?

There has to be a digital speedo/tach out there that would make the difficulty and additional cost of machining the carrier for the stock drive unnecessary

[TwoTired]

You might be able to adapt one of these?

sheesh, about as much resistance as a razorblade through butter huh? where'd you find this TT?

http://www.craigvetter.com/pages/470MPG/high%20mileage%20fairing.html

Could be a mite small for your direct application.  Still, you could stretch it here and there and still get the desired effect.

Then there are these.  Probably more applicable, as you will want to stretch rear and front More wheel base and front fork rake for more stability:
http://www.airtech-streamlining.com/landspeed/landspeed.htm

Cheers,

[gnarlycharlie4u]

oh wow... subscribed. good luck!

[turboguzzi]

You might be able to adapt one of these?

not sure id want so much side area in a LSR bike, ok for economy runs at 50 mph, less so for 120mph me thinks. (and you would hit 120 with such a low Cd and 40 hp...)

But talking to Craig Vetter could be a good idea, he comes across as someone who likes to support interesting initiatives.

[gnarlycharlie4u]

Having a bit more offset, on one side is a good thing. building a disc center (carrier) is not hard, just adds cost, the less offset in carrier the faster  to make.
 I checked my Morris mag, sideplates(bearing plates) are 5 mm thick. I think they should be no thinner than 4mm these are Added on each side, so in between, the disc and wheel hub.
 I think when the Kimtabs came out theu may have used Hurst Airhart rotors.
 I think on the rear there is way more room, just the front is  a bit cramped, are you wanting to run the stock type speeedo drive?

speedo, ...brakes?
he's building a salt flat bike. I think neither of these are necessary.

[Old Scrambler]

For the modified and more extensive builds, the official timers have the speedo.......you may want a tach...........the only brakes required are enough to control the bike at low speeds...........very few have front brakes.........most use a rear drum to negate drag. Side-mounted number plates are required. The outer ends of the handlebars must be 6-inches or more from the nearest fork tube. The fuel tank must have a minimum capacity of 5-Liters.

If you chose to run in the production class, all equipment must be as new from the show-room other than quality of finish, less lights, plate, and turn-signals.  Run what you brung is anything goes with safety features and minimal safety wire.

[B.O.X.N.I.F.E.]

Good info, links to salt pictures are def welcomed

It'd be nice if the BUB site would get up safety info on 'what ya brung'. It's said "coming soon" for a while now. I'm guessing oil pan bolt needs wired

[scottly]

not sure id want so much side area in a LSR bike, ok for economy runs at 50 mph, less so for 120mph me thinks. (and you would hit 120 with such a low Cd and 40 hp...)

But talking to Craig Vetter could be a good idea, he comes across as someone who likes to support interesting initiatives.

If I recall correctly, during one of the Vetter economy runs there were incidents of the fully faired bikes being blown off the road by cross-winds, at speeds of 40 MPH...

[754]

Concentrate on the run what you brung..leave the stramlining till later.. ...it looks real bad when a 50cc runs 45 mph faster than you..

..learn to walk, then run..

[B.O.X.N.I.F.E.]

For sure, I do love looking at the streamliner stuff though. When I first started wrenching the 4 Hemi powered Goldenrod always blew my wig off. And I always liked Art Arfons story, lots of cool characters pushing the limits out there



the first video here at this link is good, its in 10 parts

http://www.google.com/search?sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8&q=boneville+search+for+speed#hl=en&sugexp=gsishc&pq=boneville+search+for+speed&xhr=t&q=in+search+of+speed+battle+of+bonneville&cp=26&qe=aW4gc2VhcmNoIG9mIHNwZWVkIGJhdHRsZSA&qesig=nixdB5uVldmULqm4PLxhWQ&pkc=AFgZ2tm_uvNL6fIutYQYd2qd_xGF5wUX8R3DE7XlsISlv5bJu_vH0VbVhmZ-IJIBKvffb-fzQRDVYP6YE2WVu7WTneuW9_JcHA&safe=off&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbo=u&tbs=vid:1&source=og&sa=N&tab=wv&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.&fp=b8f0791501c09739

[B.O.X.N.I.F.E.]

Considering my trusted friend and travel buddy Dee Dee, my CB550, was just stolen, I've been off the grid with the salt bike.

But I guess life does have to go on, if I don't do this I'll continue to mope around without focus. So in the interest of keeping my mind at work, would y'all recommend a 10.5:1 piston or 11.5:1 piston? The bike needs to remain mildly streetable when I get home.

[Old Scrambler]

Just from my reading and questions of various motor builders.........the steep piston profiles with deep valve reliefs tend to pull well at mid-range but lack flow for top-end performance. A smaller profile can still achieve high-compression by shaving and decking....and has better intake to exhaust flow. Concentrate on valve size, intake port size, polished exhaust ports, and play with the length of the intake manifolds for improved performance. You will have to re-jet to run on the street. You may just want to have a set of street carbs with intakes and airbox to swap for the performance setup.

Bummer about the stolen bike........at least you know that someone else valued it.

[cr8zy1van]

Long time lurker and newby bike builder chiming in from SLC.
Sucks your bike got stolen! Seems like that sort of thing happens more and more. If you are ever out this way and looking for a place to crash close to Bonneville hit me up. Read your blog after searching for CB500 hints, just got my project started so would be happy to help out with yours.

[B.O.X.N.I.F.E.]

Long time lurker and newby bike builder chiming in from SLC.
Sucks your bike got stolen! Seems like that sort of thing happens more and more. If you are ever out this way and looking for a place to crash close to Bonneville hit me up. Read your blog after searching for CB500 hints, just got my project started so would be happy to help out with yours.

If you search "I'll miss you more than you'll miss me" you'll find my unfinished blog from my second trip. I'll get it done sometime soon, it was really a more scenic trip. There is a very good chance I'll take you up on that offer.

So I have to address the fact that Bonneville is out this year. Stealing my bike pretty much destroyed all my plans for the year, including riding around lake Michigan three days from now. I'll keep doing research and buying parts, but I have to find money to replace my daily rider, and keep $1000 handy in case someone makes good on the reward, God willing.

[Sam Green Racing]

Scumbags, hope they get what they deserve

Sam.

[B.O.X.N.I.F.E.]

My stolen bike never surfaced, BUT, I found another K0 550 with 4k miles on it, cleaned it up and rode 12k miles this summer.
It was the craziest trip of my life. This winter is all about building the bonnie bike.

I'm going to run both Kimtab's, front a rear. I'm going to strip the F model of most it's stock parts, if anyone is interested in some of the parts
as a partial trade for the machine work on the hubs of these Kimtabs let me know (you out there 754?). Have nice SS header, carbs, seat, hand
controls, wheels, etc...

[Bill/BentON Racing]

Plus several on the time and dreaming!!!  Glad to see you on this thread! If Sam can build a dragster to go slow, I think a few of us could have some fun at Bonneville with sohc bikes at somewhat higher speeds. 

I started to build my Triumph Cub with a machine-shop friend and bike enthuziast about 8 months ago.  The motor was first. Now the chasis build after many hours of consideration for each feature.  I'll post some pics when I figure it out and a few more welds are completed.

Advice.......no front brake.......drum on rear with no drag.  Lower the frame but try to get taller wheels.........most likely will need to extend the swingarm.  Read the rule book for BUB and then read it again. Get your shoulders and head as low as possible........use clip-ons with downward angle to get narrow...........as you build torque and compression the horsepower will take care of itself. Look for narrow fenders to match tire width. Get an electronic tach with memory.

Thanks....you are a real inspiration Old Scrambler. I'll be happy to ship all the stuff to you next time. Obviously you know how to make it quick and fast.
[/quote  I was going to ask about built it to be SLOW? Dennis,I'm holding my stomach I'm laughing so hard.It just ran 94.13 mph in 1/8.Honda ran 86-90 in 1/4 @ 15.90,1/4 was 12.36! But I too am intriqued By Bonneville!

[754]

boxknife, I will try to read mire of the thread later see if you have measurements.. need hole size, width of wheel at hole, bolt pattern, and how wide the round part is in the middle of the wheel.
 Yeah , I am interested..

[B.O.X.N.I.F.E.]

boxknife, I will try to read mire of the thread later see if you have measurements.. need hole size, width of wheel at hole, bolt pattern, and how wide the round part is in the middle of the wheel.
 Yeah , I am interested..

Here you go Frank!

Hub: 86mm
Hub to rim side a: 7.5mm
Hub to rim side b: 9mm (hub center beveled around thru hole on this side) Confirms 1.5 mm offset?
Thru hole: 2.34 inches (my caliper only goes 2 decimal places)

I'll run the stock disc up front as it has the same bolt pattern.
Researching rear options now. Sprocket size is also a concern.

[Old Scrambler]

Bill.......I know the SAMAUTO is fast and it appears you have turned it into the ATM as hoped for.....................just think how fast the bike might go if it had a very small sprocket on the rear and 2 miles to get up to speed!  Mike's motor and your carb tunes should best the existing times of 148 and 153 mph with modest frame changes and the removal of the front brake system. The long-term problem is trying to actually set a class record that will lasts for a few years.

[Bill/BentON Racing]

Bill.......I know the SAMAUTO is fast and it appears you have turned it into the ATM as hoped for.....................just think how fast the bike might go if it had a very small sprocket on the rear and 2 miles to get up to speed!  Mike's motor and your carb tunes should best the existing times of 148 and 153 mph with modest frame changes and the removal of the front brake system. The long-term problem is trying to actually set a class record that will lasts for a few years.

Dennis,we might see you on the salt!Thanks,put the cam in we took out and real small sprocket,some tweeks,we'd be close! Bill

[Sam Green Racing]

Hi Dennis, although I understood what you meant, it's easy to see why Mike and Billy saw it in adifferent way, no problem though.
The motor in Samauto was only ever intended to do two things.
It had to run under 13 second quarters as a lot of strips won't let you run if you can't hit this cut off pace.
Second, it needed to be consistent. The fact that it is a Hondamatic makes it consistent but I didn't want a highly strung motor as they can be a pain when in regards to being consistent.
In respect of Land Speed Racing with it, I'm sure the big power loss through the torque converter would be a big draw back.
A stock K looses around 14 bhp through its 5 speed transmission. (67 down to 53bhp)
A motor that shows 94bhp (what the Samauto was based on ) at the rear wheel would read 108bhp at the crank as the transmission loss stays constant.
The loss through the auto tranny was a further 14bhp based on what the power should be at the crank. (with the 125.75 cam)
With the 75 cam, I'd guess it would turn around 130mph top end (with higher gearing) but with higher comp pistons and a full on race cam, nearer 140mph might be possible.
In respect of the 2 mile run up at Boneville, if a motor can't hit its maximum in just over 1 kilometer to 3/4 mile you would be flogging a dead horse.
The worlds fastest SOHC CB750 ran over 200mph in just 2 miles and that included stopping as well (watch for a thread coming soon, been trying for ages to get it on)

Sam.

[Bluegreen]

Just from my reading and questions of various motor builders.........the steep piston profiles with deep valve reliefs tend to pull well at mid-range but lack flow for top-end performance. A smaller profile can still achieve high-compression by shaving and decking....and has better intake to exhaust flow. Concentrate on valve size, intake port size, polished exhaust ports, and play with the length of the intake manifolds for improved performance. You will have to re-jet to run on the street. You may just want to have a set of street carbs with intakes and airbox to swap for the performance setup.

Bummer about the stolen bike........at least you know that someone else valued it.

That's Fast Eddie's bike!!

[754]

Did you measure both wheels ?