Topic: removing carb bowls

[dulcimerbob]

I have one leaky carb and was wondering if removing the bowl is possible without taking off the whole rack which I hate doing. Hopefully float adj, carbs have all new float needles and seats  BTW bike is CB500k1
Thanks
Bob

[WarwickE36]

Ive done it with a ratchet and a phillips "socket".  A stubby wont fit... and be careful apprently these screws are "Japanese industrial standard" screws not phillips, according to the "really old timers" on here. I replaced my stock bolts with allens upon installation, an allen wrench fits in there no problem...just make sure NOT to over torque.  I would opt for torx bolts if you can find them... I have a set on the way.  Experts on here will tell you that this is foolish but so far I have been really happy with the results.  As far as float height adjustment goes i suppose it could be done, however it is much easier and more accurate with the carbs on their sides.  You HAVE to make sure the spring loaded plunger in the needle is not depressed at all when you make the adjustment or you will not get enough gas to the bowls.  Hope this info helps.

[c(b)hris]

Definitely possible but depending which carb it might be pretty tedious. 
If you have a stuck float you can try rapping on the stuck one with a screwdriver handle and see if it frees up.  Or some seafoam in the gas tank can free it up.
If you have to adjust the float height it might save a lot of frustration to just take them off.

[dulcimerbob]

Got 'er done. Used a little flat racheting tool that takes screwdriver bits. All the floats were too high . I held the bowls in place , turned on the gas and the checked the level . Old school  tech told me that works.  I will be replacing my screws with allens or torx. Should have done it when i built the carbs and apparently adjusted the floats correctly too. These carbs have these d##n butterflys that hold the push in main jets. Make the carb assembly a pain . I wonder if something like Loctite would hold them and resist the gas ? I found the cussing level doing this far lower than a carb removal. Thanks for your help.
DB

[dulcimerbob]

I got the bowls back on with allen screws after checking each level as I described. As soon as i started the bike the carbs began to overflow , I don't get it. I love this bike but hate the carbs. I sold a nice 750 chopper one time for the same reason for far less than it was worth . It's beyond me now . Any ideas before it goes on Craigslist ?

[flybox1]

they overflow from where?
overflow tubes? the bowl gasket? the connections between carbs?
have you checked that your stand pipes are not cracked?
if they are, you'll be tuning your floats forever....
you get leaks because you're float heights are still incorrect, you have old/bad bowl gaskets, or your float valves that are not closing properly (due to poor seating, bad orings, or rust or varnish from your tank)

pull your rack of carbs off your bike and service them properly.
check your tank and fuel lines for cleanliness...

[WarwickE36]

Definitely time to pull the carbs my friend.  Luckily the more times you pull/install the carbs the easier it gets.  Doing things the right way the first time will definitely save you from doing things over and over and banging your head.  Definitely check the overflow tubes for cracks, there are threads on here of how to repair a damaged tube.  If the tubes are ok you must check float height properly.  It is definitely easiest with the carbs on end instead up upside down.  Make sure you take the measurement with the tang just touching the plunger (NOT DEPRESSED).  These measurements need to be very precise, 1mm off and you've messed things up.  Since you have the carbs off and it will be easy pull the float needles out inspect them for any signs of varnish or wear.  Im not sure what the float needle orifice looks like in your carbs but my guess would be there is an O-ring in there if its damaged at all its time to replace it with a genuine honda carb rebuild kit (dont ebay this item).  Take your time and dont rush this. Even if you find 1 problem dont assume tht everything else is ok.  Check it all, it will be worth it in the long run.  Also if your tank has run in it make sure you clean your carbs thoroughly (check previous threads if youre unclear on how to do this properly)  If your tank has rust deal with it or this will become a weekly activity for you.  Good luck, its way more fun to ride than play with carbs

[Bankerdanny]

Before you pull the carbs, check the overflow tube from the leaking one. I had the same problem with my 7.000 mile bike with fresh gaskets. The overflow on carb 2 had a barely visible crack that cause d it to drip constantly. A small amount of JB Weld and problem solved.

[WarwickE36]

is there anything BJ weld cant fix. its like duct tape in a tube.  "If the women dont find you handsome at least they'll find you handy" - R.G.
BankerDanny knows his Sh*t but be careful, I used BJ Quick on my petcock bowl (the PO had snapped the hex head off the bottom and silicone/glued it back on) until my new petcock arrive and just about the time my item showed up it was starting to eat through the JB quick and leak. Approximately 5 days.

[Bankerdanny]

I'm at about 30-days at this point with no sign of leakage. I used regular JB though and there was a several day gap between when I did the repair and finally had the time to install it.

[Spanner 1]

Sorry but your 'old school tech.' was wrong...... the way to set your float level is with the float tab just touching the lightly seated valve, very difficult to do without depressing the little valve spring with the carbs on the bike or letting the valve point leave the seat..... gotta' have 'em sideways to do it and measure the float height...... , carbs off the bike, or lay your bike over on it's side might work 

[flybox1]

i'd be leary about how JB stands up to gas over time.  30 days isnt long enough to convice me. try 6 mos to a year with gas standing in it.  id hate for that to break down and get sucked up into my carbs.  but thats just my OCD.
I'd think a more proper fix would be to get some copper hobby tubing with the same ID as the OD of the standpipe, and gently persuade it down over. 

+1 for spanners suggestion above for float valve setting..