Author Topic: Cheap 836 kits back on ebay...$110! *Update! (Read 110446 times)

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #225 on:** December 16, 2011, 01:05:53 AM »

Ha ha, no worries mate, if you need to know how NOT to do something properly, just ask me, I've probably tried it over the last 40 years or so...............

mycb750k6 · « **Reply #226 on:** December 16, 2011, 11:39:57 AM »

Guys, thought I'd mention I expect to get a shiny new K0 motor from Hondaman with these pistons installed in a couple of weeks. Since I'm in CA, I'll have it in a bike riding around sometime in mid January. After a careful break-in I'm sure I'll be able to report how pleased I am and how it compares to my other 750s. If you've read the Hondaman posts in this thread, the K0 with have all the Hondaman mods like the valve deshrouding, quench band, port mods and all the other things I don't begin to understand how to do myself. I believe Hondaman will be offering engine rebuilds on his web site soon as well. I'll let you know what I think if you want and if there's anything special you want to know about the motor, I'll try to reply. BTW, if you've not been to his web site, it's at www.sohc4shop.com .

fatmatt650 · « **Reply #227 on:** December 27, 2011, 01:22:49 PM »

I'm about to drop my stuff off at a local machine shop and get their opinion on the appropriateness of these pistons in my Craigslist F3 motor (as well as their evaluation of its' condition). I'll keep y'all posted.

KJ790 · « **Reply #228 on:** December 27, 2011, 04:18:23 PM »

Just to throw some more information in the mix, I just shaved .060" off of an F3 head on an engine I am building with these pistons. The combustion chambers now measure out at about 23cc and I still have .12" of valve to piston clearance with the stock F3 cam. This should put the compression ratio near 10:1 for this particular build. My local machine shop charged me $30 to shave the head and $88 to bore the cylinders.

fatmatt650 · « **Reply #229 on:** December 27, 2011, 06:47:21 PM »

Thanks KJ, good info. Did you shave the head specifically to reduce combustion chamber volume?

KJ790 · « **Reply #230 on:** December 27, 2011, 07:00:45 PM »

This head was warped and needed to be surfaced anyways, so I figured why not decrease the combustion chamber volume a bit in the process. It was the same price regardless of how much got taken off, so I killed two birds with one stone.

dragracer · « **Reply #231 on:** December 28, 2011, 05:18:08 PM »

Quote from: KJ790 on December 27, 2011, 04:18:23 PM

Just to throw some more information in the mix, I just shaved .060" off of an F3 head on an engine I am building with these pistons. The combustion chambers now measure out at about 23cc and I still have .12" of valve to piston clearance with the stock F3 cam. This should put the compression ratio near 10:1 for this particular build. My local machine shop charged me $30 to shave the head and $88 to bore the cylinders.

Does the valve angle match the pockets ok???

KJ790 · « **Reply #232 on:** December 28, 2011, 06:39:11 PM »

Quote from: dragracer on December 28, 2011, 05:18:08 PM

Quote from: KJ790 on December 27, 2011, 04:18:23 PM
Just to throw some more information in the mix, I just shaved .060" off of an F3 head on an engine I am building with these pistons. The combustion chambers now measure out at about 23cc and I still have .12" of valve to piston clearance with the stock F3 cam. This should put the compression ratio near 10:1 for this particular build. My local machine shop charged me $30 to shave the head and $88 to bore the cylinders.

Does the valve angle match the pockets ok???

Yup, that was one concern I had. With the head left stock the valves don't get anywhere near the pockets, but after shaving off .060" the valves got a little closer. I was worried about the larger valves and different angle not lining up with the valve pockets, but they line up well enough.

chewbacca5000 · « **Reply #233 on:** December 28, 2011, 06:45:24 PM »

Quote from: KJ790 on December 27, 2011, 04:18:23 PM

Just to throw some more information in the mix, I just shaved .060" off of an F3 head on an engine I am building with these pistons. The combustion chambers now measure out at about 23cc and I still have .12" of valve to piston clearance with the stock F3 cam. This should put the compression ratio near 10:1 for this particular build. My local machine shop charged me $30 to shave the head and $88 to bore the cylinders.

Hey I am in Syracuse too! $88 to bore the cylinders. I'd love to get that deal. Can you hook me up with some contact info for the machine shop. Thanks!

KJ790 · « **Reply #234 on:** December 28, 2011, 06:59:04 PM »

Quote from: chewbacca5000 on December 28, 2011, 06:45:24 PM

Quote from: KJ790 on December 27, 2011, 04:18:23 PM
Just to throw some more information in the mix, I just shaved .060" off of an F3 head on an engine I am building with these pistons. The combustion chambers now measure out at about 23cc and I still have .12" of valve to piston clearance with the stock F3 cam. This should put the compression ratio near 10:1 for this particular build. My local machine shop charged me $30 to shave the head and $88 to bore the cylinders.

Hey I am in Syracuse too! $88 to bore the cylinders. I'd love to get that deal. Can you hook me up with some contact info for the machine shop. Thanks!

PM sent.

ckb96124 · « **Reply #235 on:** December 29, 2011, 09:04:38 AM »

I bought one of these kits back in November but just got around to looking at them closely, and two of the wrist pins had nicks on them. They had been dropped after being sealed in the plastic bags, as the plastic also showed damage. Anyone else have anything like this happen?

Brian

Grnrngr · « **Reply #236 on:** December 29, 2011, 06:33:29 PM »

Mine came 4 boxes taped together, wrapped in bubblewrap, a box on the end was crunched. Opened it up and checked everything out, no apparent damage. The plastic on the wrist pin looked like it might have been "stressed" so I opened it, no damage to my pin, haven't opened any of the undamaged boxes yet.

kmb69 · « **Reply #237 on:** December 29, 2011, 07:06:57 PM »

Quote from: KJ790 on December 28, 2011, 06:39:11 PM

Quote from: dragracer on December 28, 2011, 05:18:08 PM
Quote from: KJ790 on December 27, 2011, 04:18:23 PM
Just to throw some more information in the mix, I just shaved .060" off of an F3 head on an engine I am building with these pistons. The combustion chambers now measure out at about 23cc and I still have .12" of valve to piston clearance with the stock F3 cam. This should put the compression ratio near 10:1 for this particular build. My local machine shop charged me $30 to shave the head and $88 to bore the cylinders.

Does the valve angle match the pockets ok???

Yup, that was one concern I had. With the head left stock the valves don't get anywhere near the pockets, but after shaving off .060" the valves got a little closer. I was worried about the larger valves and different angle not lining up with the valve pockets, but they line up well enough.

Common misconception regarding valve angle. The -410- heads have the same valve angle as any other 750 K or F head.
Intake 27 degrees & Exhaust 29 degrees

Re: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=77860.msg871033#msg871033

The combustion chamber was made larger in order to "sink" the larger valves deeper in the head to clear themselves.

You really need to degree your cam. Shaving .060 will definitely retard your cam timing.

KJ790 · « **Reply #238 on:** December 30, 2011, 02:08:19 PM »

Quote from: kmb69 on December 29, 2011, 07:06:57 PM

Common misconception regarding valve angle. The -410- heads have the same valve angle as any other 750 K or F head.
Intake 27 degrees & Exhaust 29 degrees

Re: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=77860.msg871033#msg871033

The combustion chamber was made larger in order to "sink" the larger valves deeper in the head to clear themselves.

You really need to degree your cam. Shaving .060 will definitely retard your cam timing.

Yup, I already degreed the cam, .060" off the head does affect the cam timing quite a bit, around 5 degrees on the crank.

dragracer · « **Reply #239 on:** December 30, 2011, 04:24:29 PM »

Quote from: kmb69 on December 29, 2011, 07:06:57 PM

Quote from: KJ790 on December 28, 2011, 06:39:11 PM
Quote from: dragracer on December 28, 2011, 05:18:08 PM
Quote from: KJ790 on December 27, 2011, 04:18:23 PM
Just to throw some more information in the mix, I just shaved .060" off of an F3 head on an engine I am building with these pistons. The combustion chambers now measure out at about 23cc and I still have .12" of valve to piston clearance with the stock F3 cam. This should put the compression ratio near 10:1 for this particular build. My local machine shop charged me $30 to shave the head and $88 to bore the cylinders.

Does the valve angle match the pockets ok???

Yup, that was one concern I had. With the head left stock the valves don't get anywhere near the pockets, but after shaving off .060" the valves got a little closer. I was worried about the larger valves and different angle not lining up with the valve pockets, but they line up well enough.

Common misconception regarding valve angle. The -410- heads have the same valve angle as any other 750 K or F head.
Intake 27 degrees & Exhaust 29 degrees

Re: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=77860.msg871033#msg871033

The combustion chamber was made larger in order to "sink" the larger valves deeper in the head to clear themselves.

You really need to degree your cam. Shaving .060 will definitely retard your cam timing.

Good to hear the valve angles are all the same. Now i know what to do with my setup.

barnes10 · « **Reply #240 on:** January 13, 2012, 06:24:02 PM »

Thanks alot guys for all the info ive been looking at this kit for along time and just ordered one for my project i have going on. HondaMan were can someone like me thats new to the site can find your book

mrrch · « **Reply #241 on:** January 14, 2012, 07:37:39 AM »

Get it straight from the man himself, click on the link in his post.

Xjbear · « **Reply #242 on:** March 03, 2012, 10:21:29 PM »

I just ordered this 836 kit myself, still $110 what a deal. any long term reviews on these yet? I searchie, can't findie...anyway all those running them if your alive please chime in
Thanks,
Bear

Xjbear · « **Reply #243 on:** March 04, 2012, 09:29:16 PM »

Elan · « **Reply #244 on:** March 06, 2012, 08:11:24 AM »

i've got 300 miles on mine and im happy!

HondaMan · « **Reply #245 on:** March 07, 2012, 10:18:28 PM »

Some of mine have several thousand miles on them.

Xjbear · « **Reply #246 on:** March 19, 2012, 02:54:38 PM »

thanks for the replies, ordered on 4th and got them here on the 15th, alot faster than ebay said...nice
will get them installed in a couple weeks when im caught up. Any hints before install? camfering wrist pin holes and oil holes? polishing piston top? thanks for the feed back on this stuff!

HondaMan · « **Reply #247 on:** March 19, 2012, 03:35:07 PM »

Quote from: Xjbear on March 19, 2012, 02:54:38 PM

thanks for the replies, ordered on 4th and got them here on the 15th, alot faster than ebay said...nice
will get them installed in a couple weeks when im caught up. Any hints before install? camfering wrist pin holes and oil holes? polishing piston top? thanks for the feed back on this stuff!

Chamfer the holes on the wristpin feeds underneath, just because it's 65mm bore and extra load. I also chamfer the rods' small end holes (on the wristpin side, a reverse-chamfer) for the same reason. Also, check for any sharp edges along the piston skirts. I found a couple that had some small flash there, and I also check the outer edges of the wristpin holes, breaking those sharp edges with some 220 grit paper to remove the stress risers. Overall, they are not bad parts: they seem to be made by the same folks as the "chopper or bobber" pistons from Cycle-X, but those needed extensive finishing treatment like this when I bought a set 2 years ago. Conversely, the ones Z1 Enterprises sells, which also look identically made, have been thoroughly cleaned & finished and are install-ready.

knowsnothing · « **Reply #248 on:** March 20, 2012, 06:45:30 AM »

Hey Mark,

Is there any way you could take a few photos of what you are describing above? I am not exactly sure what and where you are talking about?

Thanks

Xjbear · « **Reply #249 on:** March 20, 2012, 08:31:54 AM »

Well the good old days are gone huh, how about $45-80 per hole to get this beotch bored out, it useta be $20, anyone got recommendations for SW Missouri shops? Action cycle is history, Mel couldn't do it forever dammit

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Author Topic: Cheap 836 kits back on ebay...$110! *Update! (Read 110446 times)