Topic: Clubman bar problem

[longshanks]

Hi, I'm new to the forum but have been lurking for quite a while. Anyhow, after two years of searching and waiting, I finally bought myself a cb750 which was already cafe'd by the previous owner. Since driving it home I felt the handlebars were just wrong and I believe the previous owner installed them incorrectly. As you can see in the picture, I highlighted where I think the bars should be rotated. The 90 degree weld I believe should be pointing out towards the road and not straight down to the ground as they are now. However, when I try to rotate the bars they hit the fork nuts. I even took the handlebar clamp entirely off and disconnected the cables, positioned it how I wanted and still the nuts hit the bars.

Do I need to modify the bars? I thought of notching them out a bit with my grinder but I'm not sure if that'd ruin the integrity of the bars.

I also included a picture of another bike that seems to have the bars installed correctly.
Thanks,

[MCRider]

Clubman bars can be different from different manufacturers. Interference with the fork nuts, right side instrument (esp the master cyl), and laying flat in the clamps, are all problems that may be encountered. Especially with the early 750s.

You may need to shop around for a clubman with a skosh more width in the protion that lays in the clamps.

Also a slightly different angle where the handlebar part welds upto the U clamp may help.

[Bankerdanny]

You should take a look at Omar's Dirt Track.

They offer a very nice adjustable clubman http://omarsdtr.com/bars4.html

[longshanks]

Thanks for the reply fellas. So if I want to modify, cut, or notch the bars I should be fine, yes? I know many other riders notch and drill holes in order to route wiring so I shouldn't be comprising the integrity of the handlebars too much right?

[Bankerdanny]

Drilling a smallish hole to route wires shouldn't have any real impact on structural integrity.

Notching the bars to clear the nut strikes me as a VERY bad idea unless you plan to weld in a filler piece. Make the notch too big and you risk the bars bending when you hit a pothole or frost heave.

Bars just aren't that expensive. Look around and find a set that are wider across the triple tree section to clear the nuts.

[Bankerdanny]

Rather than cut possibly you could flatten that section of the bars to create some clearance without sacrificing metal.

[Elan]

Hold on, its tough to see but it looks like you fork tubes might be raised up an inch or so, which would definately cause touching. you can slide em to normal position pretty easily, and then the bars should fit.

[longshanks]

Here's another picture of the bike. Sorry its so crappy, I don't have it right now because its being worked on but I should have it in a couple days to take better pics. So can you tell if the forks have been adjusted from this picture? It's a '76K btw.
Thanks,

[Bankerdanny]

I just looked at a pic of my 550 that's on my phone and your bike shouldn't be any different.

The only thing that protrudes over the top of the triple tree is the nut. It looks to me like your fork legs have been slid up the tree to lower the front a bit. You should be able to loosen the upper and lower clamps and slide the tubes down an inch or so and get the clearance you need without modifying the bars.

[Bankerdanny]

The only problem (and this is really just cosmetic) might be that the tops of the headlight ears were cut down to allow the tube to slide up, so putting the fork tube in the right place is going tp have a gap between the top of the ear and the upper triple tree.

[Elan]

The only problem (and this is really just cosmetic) might be that the tops of the headlight ears were cut down to allow the tube to slide up, so putting the fork tube in the right place is going tp have a gap between the top of the ear and the upper triple tree.

Shouldnt matter with the for ears, as the distance between the top and bottom of the tree doesnt change. your just sliding a tube.

[MasterChief750]

push your forks back down in the tree and you wont hit em

[longshanks]

So just to be sure I'm adjusting the clamps below the fork nuts? And if so, both forks will slide evenly because they're mounted on the front tire spindle right?

[Bankerdanny]

The only problem (and this is really just cosmetic) might be that the tops of the headlight ears were cut down to allow the tube to slide up, so putting the fork tube in the right place is going tp have a gap between the top of the ear and the upper triple tree.

Shouldnt matter with the for ears, as the distance between the top and bottom of the tree doesnt change. your just sliding a tube.

Doh, you are absolutely correct of course.

[Bankerdanny]

You need to loosen the nuts on the upper and lower trees and the tubes should slide up and down fairly easily.

[MCRider]

You need to loosen the nuts on the upper and lower trees and the tubes should slide up and down fairly easily.

Be sure you support the front end of the bike before loosening those clamps or you will be picking it up off the floor.

[Bankerdanny]

Excellent advice that I wish I had received before I loosened the bolts on my FJ1200 last summer.

[MCRider]

Excellent advice that I wish I had received before I loosened the bolts on my FJ1200 last summer.

Tee hee, we've all been there.   

[longshanks]

Ok, sounds like a two person job. I was just going to stack some blocks underneath the engine and frame.

[bmxjrod]

I have a k6 750 and I just went through all of this last week, but with the forks in the correct position already. I had to buy new headlight mounts so the headlight bucket wasnt smashing all of the cables and wires so much. The stock mounts really made it crammed, but I guess my guages are mounted on the bottom of the top clamp now to lower everything. Anywho, I feel your woes... lower your forks.

[dave500]

you can do one fork at a time if your worried you might lose it,not hard.

[scottly]

So just to be sure I'm adjusting the clamps below the fork nuts? And if so, both forks will slide evenly because they're mounted on the front tire spindle right?

Try unbolting the clubs and rotating them until the bolt circled in your picture is below the downward bend. The bar ends need to be angled more downward.

[Bankerdanny]

Ok, sounds like a two person job. I was just going to stack some blocks underneath the engine and frame.

Nah, use a floor jack to support the engine and you'll be fine.

[hondaface75]

So just to be sure I'm adjusting the clamps below the fork nuts? And if so, both forks will slide evenly because they're mounted on the front tire spindle right?

Try unbolting the clubs and rotating them until the bolt circled in your picture is below the downward bend. The bar ends need to be angled more downward.

agreed, Take the bar clamps off and pick the bars up over to the top side of the triples. The clubmans I got off of carpy are the same way. Yours were just installed wrong, and have nothing to do with the fork tubes being too high.

[longshanks]

They're adjusted correctly now. And yes the fork tubes were much too high and they are back to stock now. I have so much more turning radius now but it seems like all of the cabling is pretty stiff even after loosening everything and then tightening down in their new position. Does anyone have any advice on cable routing? I'm sure there has to be a thread or sticky somewhere...