Topic: 550 cam chain noise

[Green550F]

my 550F has a rattling cam chain. the last attempt to tighten it was unsuccessfull. It rattles worst at idle.
Should I be worried about this? Seems like alot of work and probably $200 in parts to fix it? New to the SOHC service although I've known this particular bike since '87 as it was my best freind's bike since high school!

[southbound]

Try adjusting the screw and locknut per manual directions.  if that doesn't work (which it didn't for me), try adjusting it with the engine running- that worked best in my case.

[HondaMan]

The shaft can stick inside the tensioner body if it hasn't been adjusted in a long time. Loosen the lockbolt and tap smartly on the side of the tensioner body with a brass or plastic-headed hammer (small one) and listen for a soft "click" that indicates the tensioner moved inside. If the chain is real loose, you'll probably hear the "click" easliy when it goes.

Worst case, remove the tensioner and release the shaft, work it around a little, and reinstall and adjust. It's just held on by a few bolts. You'll need a new gasket, because the old one may break when you remove the tensioner.

[csendker]

try adjusting it with the engine running- that worked best in my case.

how do you go about adjusting while running?

[southbound]

loosen the locknut and turn the screw (just a little bit) until you hear the noise stop.  if you turn it too much it will rub the tensioner too hard. 

It's not really the best method, but like i said, it woirked for me.

[Green550F]

 
Got the cam chain adjusted. My clymer manual seems to have an error in the instructions but I figured it out. Thanks for your guys' input! It really helped me understand what I was suposed to be doing!
 

Now for the next couple of issues... But ignition and carbs will be another thread...

[Chris Liston]

What was the procedure you used.  I don't have a Clymer, but my cam chain rattles like crazy when at cold idle.

[Green550F]

1. remove #1(left most) valve caps and points cover
2. Find TDC #1 (valve rockers will ne loose)
3. move to 15 deg After TDC (spring end just passes the timing mark) I bumped the bike over with the kick starter.
Now the engine is prepared for chain tensioning as all the hain slack is to the rear.

4. using a flat tip screw driver, hold the tensioner screw still while backing off the lock nut.
5. releasing the screwdriver and the screw should move on it's own.

Mine did not, so I turned it with the screw driver(1/4 turn) and then let it snap back. this is where my manual was off, it claimed the screw should tension CCW when it actually went CW.

6. using the screw driver, hold the tensioner gently in place while tightening the locknut.
7. replace covers and start bike.

Most of my rattles cleared up. those remaining sound deeper in the case. probably the primary chain shaking as the carbs are messed up...

[Jonesy]

I just had the same issue about the wrong adjustment direction, and I was going off of a Clymer manual too...

I tried it while the engine was running and as soon as I loosened the lock, she quieted right down. I found the quietest spot and locked it there.

[DiscoEd]

Thanks for posting all of this great info. I'll be attempting this myself in a few days and found all of this very useful. The part about the Clymer manual being wrong was interesting.

Best Regards,
DiscoEd

[Jonesy]

I'm not surprised as I've found Clymer manuals to be wrong before...

I had one for an outboard motor and it gave the wrong initial carb settings. The motor refused to start. When I got a factory manual, I found out I was flooding it! The correct settings had it running nicely.

[putnaja1]

Mine did not, so I turned it with the screw driver(1/4 turn) and then let it snap back. this is where my manual was off, it claimed the screw should tension CCW when it actually went CW.

I think the latest version of the Clymer manual has this fixed- in the one that I have, it says to turn the adjuster CCW first, and then let it go, as it should then snap CW to the proper adjustment..