Topic: Lightened Crank and Replacement Case. Which bearings??

[Ricky_Racer]

754... Any recommendations or links for proper mics?  Thanks.  RR

[754]

I have been using mostly Mitutoyo, and a Moore & Wright. Starret is good too. Most of them are pricey, but I think there arte lots of used on ebay.

 For offshore stuff, KBC tools  sells well priced stuff that is usually pretty decent quality, they have just a huge catalog of stuff.
 Using the smaller mics, is not as difficult as using the big stuff.. like an 8 inch mic, is a lot harder to get used to..

[mystic_1]

This type:



mystic_1

[bryanj]

754 try 48 inch journals andbores!!!! (Google Doxford)

[Terry in Australia]

Digital micrometers are great for inexperienced users, but expensive. I prefer a digital vernier caliper, they are around for as little as 20 bucks, and the 20 dollar EBay job I use all the time is surprisingly accurate. I just bought a more expensive digital vernier that measures in mm and metric inches, but also in fractions of an inch, which is really cool! Cheers, Terry.

[odin836]

Received my Bottom End Studs from Dynoman this week, and was able to give the Plastiguage a go.
I ended up getting all BROWN shells based upon measurements with a digital vernier calliper, and working backwards as suggested earlier in the thread.  Thought it cheaper to use this as a guide and buy one or two extra shells if needed.  Seems pretty good, photos are below, what do you think?


Plastiguage


Plastiguage with paper guide, all squished plastiguage pieces are the same shape/size.

My only problem is this:

A broken Dynoman bottom end stud, snapped off at about 15 ft lbs, all other studs stood fast at the recommended 20 ft lbs.  (My heart sank when I heard the crack!)

I have emailed Dynoman, hopefully they are happy to send a single replacement stud.

[mick7504]

This broken stud business is no good.
Yours is another in recent times that has been reported.
From memory, the last ones were cylinder studs and now a case stud.
It certainy puts a question mark over the quality control procedures.
Mick

[MRieck]

This broken stud business is no good.
Yours is another in recent times that has been reported.
From memory, the last ones were cylinder studs and now a case stud.
It certainy puts a question mark over the quality control procedures.
Mick

I had a case stud snap off exactly as Odin described

[odin836]

Mike, glad its not just me...
With the number of mean machines you've built its got to be poor materials.

I have received an email from Dynoman (this morning).
They are sending a replacement stud today, downside is it typically takes 2 weeks stuff to Aus from the US.

[MRieck]

Mike, glad its not just me...
With the number of mean machines you've built its got to be poor materials.

I have received an email from Dynoman (this morning).
They are sending a replacement stud today, downside it it typically takes 2 weeks stuff to Aus from the US.

....but Buzz is very good about that stuff. Still.....it's uncomfortable

[JLeather]

huh.  I have a set of case studs from that same batch.  Hope they'll be alright.

[odin836]

Dynoman sent me a single replacement stud pretty quick.
Plan on trying to get things together this weekend.
Hope the replacment performs better!

[Terry in Australia]

Well I checked my F1 cases and crank today, and was surprised that the crank wasn't stamped, but rather, the code was lightly scratched (yep scratched, not even engraved) into the position described above. Interestingly the case letters and the crank letters are all the same, AAAAA. Looks like all yellow shells are the go. Cheers, Terry.

[bryanj]

Terry crank was never stamped they used one of those electric etch pens mate

[Terry in Australia]

Terry crank was never stamped they used one of those electric etch pens mate

Fair enough Bryan, I can't remember the last time I looked, when I rebuilt my blue K2 I just used all green bearing shells and it was fine, I suppose anything is better than 40 year old ones, ha ha!