Topic: Electronic Ignition

[Duanob]

Not really a question, more of a comment.

I love it when technology just works! I just got a Dyna-S ignition and 5ohm coil set. Went to NAPA and got the plug wire and ends. Impressed with how simple it is. Came home and within a couple of hours the thing started right up with a brand new ignition system! I put a timing light on it, turned the idle up to 2500 rpms and set it. Idled it down and rechecked it. All is perfect. I like the way you can set both coils a bit differently. It fixes the honda problem of when the 1&4 are timed the 2&3 are out syndrome. Smoother idle and even warmed up faster than normal. I still have a very slight pop in one cylinder but now have the confidence to rule out the electrical system. Next up, back into the carbs.

That is all, carry on.

[david 750f]

Just make sure you have the air gap set properly between the two pickups.

[Brian G]

I like the way you can set both coils a bit differently. It fixes the honda problem of when the 1&4 are timed the 2&3 are out syndrome.

This gives me an opportunity to ask Gordon or Two-Tired and others In the Know - why, if the crankshaft is fabricated so as the cylinders are exactly 180 degrees opposite to each other, is there any variation in the timing? Points are driven off of the camshaft, right? And the camshaft is chain-driven from the crank, right?..., oh...., I've just answered my own question...., right?

Thanks,
Brian

[dave500]

the points are driven from the crank on the fours,you must have a twin?the two sets of points can be moved independantly so as they wear differently they can be adjusted to suit.

[Duanob]

Just make sure you have the air gap set properly between the two pickups.

As far as I know it's all preset. there is no adjustment for gap. I like that part of it. All my boat ignitions I've had to set the gap, not a big deal but just one more thing to F with.

I've wondered about how the timing from one set of points can be off from the other. It's pretty common and I had that problem as well before I put this ignition in. Now I don't!

[flybox1]

so...D, if you're out wrenching, you must be 'recovering' fairly well

[Duanob]

Si Senore! Wrenching yes, riding not quite. Gotta get back on that horse. I plan on taking the wife on the back to the Solstice Parade in fremont on saturday, weather permitting.

[TwoTired]

I like the way you can set both coils a bit differently. It fixes the honda problem of when the 1&4 are timed the 2&3 are out syndrome.

This gives me an opportunity to ask Gordon or Two-Tired and others In the Know - why, if the crankshaft is fabricated so as the cylinders are exactly 180 degrees opposite to each other, is there any variation in the timing?
Points are driven off of the camshaft, right?

No, the crankshaft.  There is an advance mechanism and points cam attached directly to is.  The points cam ramp is the same for both bpoints.  But the gap and the rotation posioned relative to the point cam can be adjusted independently.

And the camshaft is chain-driven from the crank, right?...,

Yes.  But the cam has nothing to do with ignition timing.

Cheers,

[TwoTired]

Hey Duanob,

Let us know how your battery holds up with the changeover to dyna.

Cheers,

[Gordon]

Hey Duanob,

Let us know how your battery holds up with the changeover to dyna.

Cheers,

Out of curiosity I just checked the battery on my '76 550K, same bike as Duanob's if the signature is correct, and it's at 12.0 volts.  That's somewhat depleted, but it was sitting unused for three weeks while we were moving recently, and since then I've only ridden it to work a couple of times, which is only 3 miles away now.  It hasn't been on the Battery Tender in about three months.

The Dyna-S is the only electrical modification, and the electric start is never used. 

[Deltarider]

and it's at 12.0 volts.  That's somewhat depleted

And that is an understatement.

[TwoTired]

Hey Duanob,

Let us know how your battery holds up with the changeover to dyna.

Cheers,

Out of curiosity I just checked the battery on my '76 550K, same bike as Duanob's if the signature is correct, and it's at 12.0 volts.  That's somewhat depleted, but it was sitting unused for three weeks while we were moving recently, and since then I've only ridden it to work a couple of times, which is only 3 miles away now.  It hasn't been on the Battery Tender in about three months.

The Dyna-S is the only electrical modification, and the electric start is never used. 

Thanks for that Gordon.

However, if that is the norm, I would expect short(er) battery life at that state of charge.  Keeping the battery cold (but above freezing) would help counter the sulfation effects, as cooler temps slow down the chemical reactions during storage.
FYI

Is the no electric start regime a choice or necessity?  I drove one of my 550s for two years 'cause the battery was simply too weak for E start.  (Just to defer buying a new battery.)

Cheers,

[Gordon]

Thanks for that Gordon.

However, if that is the norm, I would expect short(er) battery life at that state of charge.  Keeping the battery cold (but above freezing) would help counter the sulfation effects, as cooler temps slow down the chemical reactions during storage.
FYI

Is the no electric start regime a choice or necessity?  I drove one of my 550s for two years 'cause the battery was simply too weak for E start.  (Just to defer buying a new battery.)

Cheers,

Cooler temps aren't an option right now.  It's already been in the upper 90's here for the past couple of weeks and it won't be cooling down again until the Fall, but I'm loving it! 

That's not the normal state of charge for the battery.  I usually maintain it better and ride both bikes much more often, but because of the move to a new house that began on 5/15, and the unpacking that is still ongoing, the bikes have been getting neglected.  Luckily these old sohc4's are very forgiving or I'd be stuck driving the car to work every day. 

The no electric start began by choice.  Years ago the start button on my K1 shattered one cold morning when I pushed it.  I never replaced it and have always just kick-started it since then.  When I got the 550 the electric start worked fine, but I still always kick-started out of habit.  Now, several years later the solenoid is frozen up from lack of use and I couldn't use it if I wanted to. 

[Duanob]

Hey Duanob,

Let us know how your battery holds up with the changeover to dyna.

Cheers,

Time will tell TT. I plan on installing a Halogen headlight as well but I think I'll wait and see if this system taxes the charging too much. My 550 K always seems to charge fine although I've never put a meter on it. With the 5 ohm coils I'm not planning any problems but we'll see. Keep ya'll posted.