Author Topic: 550 dual disc missalignment... (Read 2487 times)

Elniniomuchachos · « **on:** June 15, 2011, 01:11:47 AM »

I'm having issues with the dual disc modification. The axle isn't wanting to line up, and there is a gap between the axle and the hub.
What am I missing???
see pics for details. Also do you see any other problems?

http://www.flickr.com/photos/58837550@N02/5835583868/#in/photostream/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/58837550@N02/5835584398/#in/photostream/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/58837550@N02/5835032043/#in/photostream/

Thanks

Grabcon · « **Reply #1 on:** June 15, 2011, 02:46:16 PM »

You are missing a spacer on the left hand side of the hub as you are sitting on the bike. Remove the axel and put the spacer in. things should then work.

Spikeybike · « **Reply #2 on:** June 15, 2011, 02:47:48 PM »

either that , or the axle is in backwards

Grabcon · « **Reply #3 on:** June 15, 2011, 02:50:32 PM »

The axel is in the correct direction as shown in the oicture.

Tintop · « **Reply #4 on:** June 15, 2011, 03:35:11 PM »

Quote from: Grabcon on June 15, 2011, 02:46:16 PM

You are missing a spacer on the left hand side of the hub as you are sitting on the bike. Remove the axel and put the spacer in. things should then work.

+1 on a missing spacer.

scottly · « **Reply #5 on:** June 15, 2011, 06:52:13 PM »

In addition to the missing spacer on the left side, there may be a problem with the speedo drive. It looks like you cut notches in the disc hub for the drive tangs, and the tangs are sitting flush with the outside of the hub. The tangs need to be flush, or even slightly recessed from the inside of the disk. GREAT idea, using notches in the disc to engage the drive plate tangs!!!

You may also have a problem with the thickness of the bolt heads interfering with the drive housing.

Tintop · « **Reply #6 on:** June 15, 2011, 08:07:51 PM »

+1 Scotty, sharp eye. Bushing is definitely missing, and on 2nd look there does seem to be an issue with the drive plate. Doesn't look like it is seated flat and square; not enough clearence / depth in the slot maybe.

Great idea, only drawback I see is if you have to change the rotor, you've got to slot the new one.

Grabcon · « **Reply #7 on:** June 15, 2011, 08:22:26 PM »

Attached is a link to a bunch of photos for my latest project. There are several that show the dual disk setup and a proper way to do the speedo.

http://s1143.photobucket.com/albums/n636/grabcon/

scottly · « **Reply #8 on:** June 15, 2011, 10:01:53 PM »

I've got all the spare 750 parts, including a wheel, so I may look into this a bit further. Too damn hot to ride, anyway! 98 today

Elniniomuchachos · « **Reply #9 on:** June 16, 2011, 04:11:18 AM »

Hey, thanks everyone for the input. I knew I was missing something on the axle, as there is a pretty good sized gap. The plate sits flush with the rotor when I press on it, and doesn't hit the bolt heads, but I will double check once I get everything all tightened up again.

I just knocked out most of the wiring (Did an all night garage one man party?). Tomorrow I am going to pick up a fresh set of plugs, finish timing and wiring along with a bunch of other stuff. Hopefully I will be starting her up for the first time this week!

I'll chime in with the results for the front wheel and calipers.

Also any hints on adjusting the calipers? I noticed that on the right caliper (when sitting on the bike) it doesn't have much play, as it bumps into the fork. I haven't done any of the shaving or anything like that to the fork lowers where the caliper bracket is bolted.

I guess I'll just see how everything works out.

scottly · « **Reply #10 on:** June 16, 2011, 10:06:18 AM »

The drive plate needs to be flush with the back side of the rotor, up against the wheel hub like it was originally. The way it is now, the axle assembly will be about 1/4" too wide. Don't try to pull it in by tightening the axle nut, as you risk damaging the drive assembly.

scottly · « **Reply #11 on:** June 16, 2011, 07:26:04 PM »

I took a look today, and this might work. You would have to grind off the areas of the drive plate that I blacked out, and remove about .100" from the blacked out areas on the back of the disc hub.
If you elect to screw the drive plate to the wheel hub like Grabcon, make sure you drill the holes through the plate into the hub BEFORE you cut off the plate flange, and mark the plate and the hub so it goes back together the same way so as to make sure the drive plate is centered.

Tintop · « **Reply #12 on:** June 16, 2011, 07:44:23 PM »

Quote from: scottly on June 16, 2011, 07:26:04 PM

I took a look today, and this might work. You would have to grind off the areas of the drive plate that I blacked out, and remove about .100" from the blacked out areas on the back of the disc hub.
If you elect to screw the drive plate to the wheel hub like Grabcon, make sure you drill the holes through the plate into the hub BEFORE you cut off the plate flange, and mark the plate and the hub so it goes back together the same way so as to make sure the drive plate is centered.

Thanks for posting those photos scottly. I've been thinking a simple way is as you mentioned, but using steel roll pins instead of screws. The black area you marked on the drive plate would go all the way around, and be removed (tabs too). Just leaving a flat plate, so no clearance issues.

scottly · « **Reply #13 on:** June 16, 2011, 07:57:15 PM »

There is not much clearance between the drive plate and the back of the drive housing. The roll pins would have to sit more or less flush with the surface of the plate.

Tintop · « **Reply #14 on:** June 17, 2011, 03:09:10 AM »

Quote from: scottly on June 16, 2011, 07:57:15 PM

There is not much clearance between the drive plate and the back of the drive housing. The roll pins would have to sit more or less flush with the surface of the plate.

That's how I figured it would have to be done, but no risk of a screw ever backing out and jamming the speedo.

Elniniomuchachos · « **Reply #15 on:** June 17, 2011, 12:38:58 PM »

Dammit. I must have looked at someone's dual caliper build and thought the inside of the disc was the outside. Do you think that rotor is still good if I machine out the rear as well? Or should I just take a spare rotor machine it and have it powder-coated again? I know it would probably look cleaner if i re-did it on a new rotor.

Tintop · « **Reply #16 on:** June 17, 2011, 02:42:40 PM »

Looking at the 2ND photo I think you can work with what you have. Just take the slots for the tangs all the way through the disk. Also make sure that the rest of the circumference of the drive has clearance, and does not bind on the rotor when assembled. What you've done will work, just needs a little fine tuning.

Don't forget to replace the missing spacer when you put it back together.

Elniniomuchachos · « **Reply #17 on:** June 19, 2011, 11:03:43 PM »

Alright cool. Is there anybody on here that DOESN'T recommend going all the way through on the rotor? As far as weakening the rotor, or anything like that?

I was using a dremal tool when I cut out those little notches... It took for ever. A buddy of mine let me borrow some of his diegrinders with some different bits and sanding rolls. So hopefully this time around will be quicker, easier, and cleaner looking. I'll get some pics of my set up once I get it all finished up.

Thanks again

scottly · « **Reply #18 on:** June 19, 2011, 11:54:59 PM »

I would just cut new notches on the back side of the rotor, but not opposite the ones you already put on the outside. The most important thing is that the drive plate tabs don't stick up past the back side of the rotor; flush ,or even better, slightly below.

Tintop · « **Reply #19 on:** June 20, 2011, 02:56:52 AM »

Quote from: scottly on June 19, 2011, 11:54:59 PM

I would just cut new notches on the back side of the rotor, but not opposite the ones you already put on the outside. The most important thing is that the drive plate tabs don't stick up past the back side of the rotor; flush ,or even better, slightly below.

Don't think that will work for him scotty. From the picture it looks like he has flattened to tabs out.

Elniniomuchachos · « **Reply #20 on:** June 20, 2011, 03:15:24 PM »

Eh, screw it. I'm just going to go all the way through with the notches I already cut, clean them up, and the plate should work. If not, I have a few other rotors that I can modify and then have powdercoated.

Tintop · « **Reply #21 on:** June 20, 2011, 03:30:10 PM »

Quote from: Elniniomuchachos on June 20, 2011, 03:15:24 PM

Eh, screw it. I'm just going to go all the way through with the notches I already cut, clean them up, and the plate should work. If not, I have a few other rotors that I can modify and then have powdercoated.

Probably the easiest solution.

Elniniomuchachos · « **Reply #22 on:** July 30, 2011, 09:02:31 AM »

Alright, I got everything in place, spacer back on, and everything lines up great. But in order to get the wheel on I had to take one of the calipers off. Is this going to become part of the routine? There just wasn't enough space for the tire to squeeze through. I suppose if I let some of the air out it could get past it. I still need to do some adjusting, so I will mess around with it today.

mrrch · « **Reply #23 on:** July 30, 2011, 10:50:42 AM »

I have to remove one of my calipers to remove the wheel on my 750 with dual disks. No big deal, 2 bolts to split the caliper then hang it out of the way.

Rookster · « **Reply #24 on:** July 30, 2011, 12:17:14 PM »

I modified the back of the rotor to hold the speedo drive. Its easier to just enlarge the hole in the disk for the drive to sit in rather than grind a bunch of material off the drive unit. I was very leary of drilling into the hub. If you get too close to bearing surface you could get cracks. Remember those bearings get pounded in and out and that area will take some stress sooner or later.

Scott

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Author Topic: 550 dual disc missalignment... (Read 2487 times)