Topic: first start after rebuild,

[the technological J]

i just rebuilt my k8 and decided to go with the 3 thou on the intake and 4 on the exaust...
has anybody else done this? how loud should the valves be? because it seems fairly loud or is it that and the combo of not much oil has made it up there yet... i just had it start a little bit on me but it seemed pretty chattery and i got a little concered and thought i would consult the minds of the masses

First thing tmrw I'm double checking the clearances

[dave500]

the clearance will open up as things settle in.

[wrenchmuch]

My webcam is set at 4 thou ex and in . It makes a fair amount of noise . I'm use to it now . I would pull the tapett caps on 1 and 4 ex and make sure you have oil there . Just to be safe . I'm paranoid about lack of oil in the head .

[the technological J]

so im just about to check the tappets and my brakes arent holding pressure its definatley been bled ( its the first time with duel discs) but it wont hold pressure and i cant find any fluid leaks anywhere.... i did just rebuild the master cylinder because of this so i know thats not the issue

[scottly]

Not sure what you mean by "won't hold pressure". Do you mean when you first pull the lever, you have pressure, but the lever slowly pulls back to the handle bar? If so, this would be an possible problem with the MC. If the lever goes right back to the handle with no resistance, you still have air in the system.

[MCRider]

Clearance tightens up between the tappets and valve stem as the valves seat into the head.

RT

I would agree they tighten up, but not by much, less than a thou or I wouldn't like it. I wouldn't expect or suspect valves or their seats settling. 

On the other hand if you have a tappet point, the hardened end that pushes on the vavle top, that wears a lot or heaven forbid the hardening gives up and you get a pit (I've seen it) you will get a lot of clearance quickly. This is difficult to measure witha flat gauge as the gauge will traverse the wear or the pit and give a false good reading.

If you don't know for sure the condition of your tappet ends, you should pull them and look, every 10 thousand miles or so, or if a louder ticking begins, IMO.

[the technological J]

Embarrisingly it was my number 2 intake valve... it wasn't locked down and was chattering like crazy... I have the worst luck with this bike and its tappets (lost two locking nuts and had to replace the adjusters)... I started it up and it ran great I thought the carbs were outta synch but it was smooth
 I've given up on it for now.... I'm headed to georgia on my KO... hitting up deals gap and some surrounding areas
 I really wanted to take her because she's sporty er but it just didn't work out

[the technological J]

Not sure what you mean by "won't hold pressure". Do you mean when you first pull the lever, you have pressure, but the lever slowly pulls back to the handle bar? If so, this would be an possible problem with the MC. If the lever goes right back to the handle with no resistance, you still have air in the system.

i will pump the handle till it some pressure and no matter what it will still  hit the handle(it has some pressure but not enought to stop it) and when i come back at a later time  there is no pressure and back to pumping it up

[scottly]

You have air in the system. Dual discs are more difficult to bleed than a single disc, which can be difficult enough! Worst case is flipped calipers with clubmans or clip-ons. Have you mounted the calipers behind the forklegs, and/or mounted clubs/clips?

[the technological J]

no.. super bike bars but i would be shocked if some how i didnt bleed them enough.. i push alot of fluid through the system while bleeding it... i might give it another shot when i get back