Topic: are the K&N airbox for 550 good?

[xsmooth69x]

i went to pull some parts for my 550 and i found 2 (used) K&N air filters for the airbox.

like the bracket that fits onto the stock airbox part completely replacing the paper filter section.

are these any good?

the filters are in good condition i just washed them and used the K&N filter recharge kit

[xsmooth69x]

no body?

if i use these will i have to rejet my carbs?

[dave500]

youll have to get the engine running first,do you have a decent standard filter element?

[xsmooth69x]

ill post some pics on what im talking about.... someone here has to be running the old sing filter k&n with bracket.

but ya i do have the original box and an omi filter.

im starting the engine this weekend 

[TwoTired]

You talkin' about this?

[xsmooth69x]

ya that is exactly what i have!!!!

are those good? i found 2 of them for free

i cleaned the brackets up they look really nice and i used the K&N recharge kit so the filters are like Brand New!

[becken]

I put one on my 76 CB550F back in the 70's, had the pipes just start to turn yellow and changed to 110 main jets. That stopped the yellowing. I just recently moved the jet needle up one notch as recommended by Hondaman, and the bike runs better than ever. I want to put some more miles on and check the plugs to see if I now have to go down slightly on the mains. That K&N unit will give a nice sound to the intake and by using the stock carb rubbers, will smooth out the airflow to the carbs like Honda engineered it.

[TwoTired]

ya that is exactly what i have!!!!

are those good? i found 2 of them for free

It believe it is a better alternative than the standard "pods".
The one I have came with a bike that was poorly modded into "cafe" style.
They also removed the inner fender, which means any water on the road will be thrown directly onto the filter membrane, where the large chunks will remain, as the water or other liquids get sucked into the engine.   
What price for style?

Anyway, I was not aware that the filter was cleanable/reusable.  It looked like dirt so I didn't even consider using it.  I don't know how it ran.  The carbs were still jetted/set up in stock configuration.  This is the same bike that would disengage the clutch when the bars were simply turn to left.  No need to touch the clutch lever.  Needless to say that the mechanical prowess of the PO was, er, questionable.  He did do a nice job on the tank and side cover repainting, though.  But, I digress.

If it does indeed increase power at or near red line, then it will also need the same carb retuning effort that pods require.  It's just that the settings will be different from stock or pods.  Probably have the same issues in wet whether that pods have, but all cylinder will be effected about the same, instead of just the outer pods getting drenched more than inner pods.

I think K&N stopped making these filters about the same time people stop racing CB550s.

I still don't get why bikes with the filter membrane displayed are somehow "cool".

Cheers

[becken]

I've never run pods, but have read of the problems with them here and definitely don't want to try. I have had this unit on my bike for over 30 years and have had none of these problems associated with pods other than having to increase the main jet slightly because the pipes got slightly yellow. I had no problems with the power of the engine at any throttle position or RPM. The filter sets next to the battery and with the inner fender in place has never gotten wet, even in some downpours on the interstate. You cannot see the filter unless you open the seat. This has worked well for me. My engine is stock including the exhaust and I have owned it since new.

[singedebile]

I've never run pods, but have read of the problems with them here and definitely don't want to try. I have had this unit on my bike for over 30 years and have had none of these problems associated with pods other than having to increase the main jet slightly because the pipes got slightly yellow. I had no problems with the power of the engine at any throttle position or RPM. The filter sets next to the battery and with the inner fender in place has never gotten wet, even in some downpours on the interstate. You cannot see the filter unless you open the seat. This has worked well for me. My engine is stock including the exhaust and I have owned it since new.

and have you continued to re-use the filter all this time? I am curious about these and might try to keep my eyes open for one if it seems possible to continue using it indefinitely.

[becken]

The bike sat for about 10 to 12 years before I decided to get it going again 3 years ago. I only have 15,000 miles on the bike, but K&N has a million mile warranty on their filters, one of the exceptions being off road use, but I'm not motocrossing. Just follow their directions for cleaning and reoiling and keep sharp tool away

[xsmooth69x]

.......... anyone who owns a k&n filter on there car or bike needs to use this!

the solution with the kit is some kind of magical cleans the filter so its new again solution!  I used to use hot soapy water or gas to clean the filters and just recently started to not be a cheap ass and get the $11 kit at any auto store and wow

this solution literally made my filters like new. then the oil just tops it off with the filtration and to make it easy to clean.

ive cleaned 3 of my massively dirty filters and i can still clean 3 more so $11 isent bad it all!!

u can re-use K&N, ingen, tenzo or any other type of oil based filters.

[becken]

When you mount the bracket to your airbox, put a light layer of grease on the sealing surface to help seal the connection, and don't overtighten the bolts, just snug enough so they won't come loose, and make checking them for tightness a part of your regular PM.

[TwoTired]

The stock join fasteners have sleeves to take compression loads off the plastic.  The plastic will extrude is you apply constant pressure to it.  So, don't overlook those when you mount up the K&N plate, or you will damage the air plenum.

[xsmooth69x]

The stock join fasteners have sleeves to take compression loads off the plastic.  The plastic will extrude is you apply constant pressure to it.  So, don't overlook those when you mount up the K&N plate, or you will damage the air plenum.

wait what? i dont understand this?

[Ryan66]

Where can you buy these k&n kits?

[xsmooth69x]

at any auto parts store they are around $11

[TwoTired]

The stock join fasteners have sleeves to take compression loads off the plastic.  The plastic will extrude is you apply constant pressure to it.  So, don't overlook those when you mount up the K&N plate, or you will damage the air plenum.

wait what? i dont understand this?

Check out parts #25 and #26 in the parts diagram.
http://www.westernhillshondayamaha.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=123190&category=MOTORCYCLES&make=HONDA&year=1977&fveh=2944
These are steel tubes that the bolts fit within.  Stock, they are sized in length slightly under the thickness of the the filter box (#13) and plenum chamber plastic(#12).  When the bolts are tightened to join the two plastic parts, the steel tube limits the squeeze pressure placed on the plastic.  Without them, the plastic will deform under the constant and considerable compression force created by bolt and nut tension.  Since you are substituting what is, in effect, a very large flat washer in place of the filter chamber plastic, the end to end thickness of the bolt tunnel available will be shortened.  So, the stock bolt sleeve will be too long.  It will have to be shortened by about half, or a new part will have to be fabricated with the correct length derived from the thickness of the air chamber plastic.  K&N should have provided this part or included instruction for grinding down or shortened the stock original part.
You will note the mount hole in the air chamber plastic is way larger than the bolts that join them.  This is to accommodate the compression sleeve.  Why not let the plastic deform?  Because when the plastic deforms, tension is lost on coupling bolt, allowing it to loosen.  You could add tightening the bolt to your maintenance cycle in perpetuity.  But, of you put in the proper sleeve, you shouldn't have to.

While I'm here, I'll also mention that you need to retain Part #14.  The Plenum chamber and boots hold up the rear end of the carbs.  But, only if the chamber itself is supported.  Part #14 holds the chamber (#12) in proper relation to the frame.

Cheers,

[Ryan66]

at any auto parts store they are around $11

Just the filter or whats needed?

[xsmooth69x]

at any auto parts store they are around $11

Just the filter or whats needed?

its the recharge kit like the picture i posted.

it contains the cleaner solution and the oil to re apply to the cleaned filter

[xsmooth69x]

The stock join fasteners have sleeves to take compression loads off the plastic.  The plastic will extrude is you apply constant pressure to it.  So, don't overlook those when you mount up the K&N plate, or you will damage the air plenum.

wait what? i dont understand this?

Check out part #25 in the parts diagram.

These are steel tubes that the bolts fit within.  Stock, they are sized in length slightly under the thickness of the the filter box (#13) and plenum chamber plastic(#12).  When the bolts are tightened to join the two plastic parts, the steel tube limits the squeeze pressure placed on the plastic.  Without them, the plastic will deform under the constant and considerable compression force created by bolt and nut tension.  Since you are substituting what is, in effect, a very large flat washer in place of the filter chamber plastic, the end to end thickness of the bolt tunnel available will be shortened.  So, the stock bolt sleeve will be too long.  It will have to be shortened by about half, or a new part will have to be fabricated with the correct length derived from the thickness of the air chamber plastic.  K&N should have provided this part or included instruction for grinding down or shortened the stock original part.
You will note the mount hole in the air chamber plastic is way larger than the bolts that join them.  This is to accommodate the compression sleeve.  Why not let the plastic deform?  Because when the plastic deforms, tension is lost on coupling bolt, allowing it to loosen.  You could add tightening the bolt to your maintenance cycle in perpetuity.  But, of you put in the proper sleeve, you shouldn't have to.

While I'm here, I'll also mention that you need to retain Part #14.  The Plenum chamber and boots hold up the rear end of the carbs.  But, only if the chamber itself is supported.  Part #14 holds the chamber (#12) in proper relation to the frame.

Cheers,

i will look into this for sure in like a day or 2 im out playing with one of my girlfriends and shes #$%*ing at me to get off

damn it i wanna look find and look at the diagram but im on her laptop and dont have them at hand 

[xsmooth69x]

The stock join fasteners have sleeves to take compression loads off the plastic.  The plastic will extrude is you apply constant pressure to it.  So, don't overlook those when you mount up the K&N plate, or you will damage the air plenum.

wait what? i dont understand this?

Check out part #25 in the parts diagram.

These are steel tubes that the bolts fit within.  Stock, they are sized in length slightly under the thickness of the the filter box (#13) and plenum chamber plastic(#12).  When the bolts are tightened to join the two plastic parts, the steel tube limits the squeeze pressure placed on the plastic.  Without them, the plastic will deform under the constant and considerable compression force created by bolt and nut tension.  Since you are substituting what is, in effect, a very large flat washer in place of the filter chamber plastic, the end to end thickness of the bolt tunnel available will be shortened.  So, the stock bolt sleeve will be too long.  It will have to be shortened by about half, or a new part will have to be fabricated with the correct length derived from the thickness of the air chamber plastic.  K&N should have provided this part or included instruction for grinding down or shortened the stock original part.
You will note the mount hole in the air chamber plastic is way larger than the bolts that join them.  This is to accommodate the compression sleeve.  Why not let the plastic deform?  Because when the plastic deforms, tension is lost on coupling bolt, allowing it to loosen.  You could add tightening the bolt to your maintenance cycle in perpetuity.  But, of you put in the proper sleeve, you shouldn't have to.

While I'm here, I'll also mention that you need to retain Part #14.  The Plenum chamber and boots hold up the rear end of the carbs.  But, only if the chamber itself is supported.  Part #14 holds the chamber (#12) in proper relation to the frame.

Cheers,

where is this parts diagram.... the one im looking at must be different

[TwoTired]

Sorry, I guess I forgot to put the link in to Western hills Honda.  Edited now.

I need a proofreader.   

[xsmooth69x]

so what you saying is dont do exactly what im doing lol

[TwoTired]

I can't see if you have a spacer/compression load limiter on those air plenum mount bolts.

But, that is a horrible location for the battery connection.  Particularly for starter current operation.
You want that negative battery connection wedged between engine case and frame at a motor mount with clean metal to metal contact.

[xsmooth69x]

I can't see if you have a spacer/compression load limiter on those air plenum mount bolts.

But, that is a horrible location for the battery connection.  Particularly for starter current operation.
You want that negative battery connection wedged between engine case and frame at a motor mount with clean metal to metal contact.

i will for sure do that when i actually put the bike together together

im trying to get this beast started and running then everything goes off again and ready for paint and all the bling bling

there are no compression fitting things just a washer