Topic: broken tripple clamp

[finkbuilt]

Well, I went to finally put fork oil in my CB35OF, man this front end dives.

When I went to drain the fork oil, NONE came out.  I thought that was strange. So, I went to take the top cap off to fill it up, but it won't come off.  The cap gets almost all the way out, then the tube that it is threaded into starts turning.  Is this a common problem?

Oddly, the tripple clamp is also broken.  Are these related?  I guess thae previous owner couldnt get it off either, which is why there is no oil in it.

Is there another way to get oil in, or do I just have to wait until I can get the whole front end taken apart to replace the clamp?  I know the answer  -  that could be a while.

just sharing my misery I guess.

[Hannibal Smith]

Gorilla syndrome.

[finkbuilt]

Does anybody happen to know if the cb400 tripple tree is the same as the 350?

Also, does my cap removal difficulty sound familiar at all?  Even after I remove the fork leg, how am I going to get the cap off?

thanks.

[MoMo]

Does anybody happen to know if the cb400 tripple tree is the same as the 350?

Also, does my cap removal difficulty sound familiar at all?  Even after I remove the fork leg, how am I going to get the cap off?
 
thanks.

http://www.mrcycles.com/fiche_section_detail.asp   Look at the fiche on that link, you will see that you need to put a wrench on 7 while putting another on 21...Larry

[finkbuilt]

Does anybody happen to know if the cb400 tripple tree is the same as the 350?

Also, does my cap removal difficulty sound familiar at all?  Even after I remove the fork leg, how am I going to get the cap off?
 
thanks.

http://www.mrcycles.com/fiche_section_detail.asp   Look at the fiche on that link, you will see that you need to put a wrench on 7 while putting another on 21...Larry

Hmm...  Well, 7 is not accessible.  the cap bolt just spins and spins..  I'll figure it out.  thanks

[camelman]

The 350f and 400f are different.  The gauge mounting holes are spaced significantly differently, and the 400f upper has much more materialu .

The failure is typically due to not having a spacer in place while tightening the fork pinch bolt.  If you get a new upper in place, then the fork tube will likely not rotate while you try to loosen it.  Alternatively, have you tried tightening the lower pinch bolt?  You really don't need more than one pinch bolt to hold the fork tube while you remove the screw from the top of the fork tube.

Camelman

[finkbuilt]

The 350f and 400f are different.  The gauge mounting holes are spaced significantly differently, and the 400f upper has much more materialu .

The failure is typically due to not having a spacer in place while tightening the fork pinch bolt.  If you get a new upper in place, then the fork tube will likely not rotate while you try to loosen it.  Alternatively, have you tried tightening the lower pinch bolt?  You really don't need more than one pinch bolt to hold the fork tube while you remove the screw from the top of the fork tube.

Camelman

Yeah, the lower pinch bolt is tight.

It's wierd,  as I loosened the top cap, I kept expecting the thing to pop out at me, under spring pressure. But instead, right as it felt like it should come out, it just keeps going clunk, clunk, clunk.  Almost as if it is being pulled IN, rather than ready to pop out.  I know that this is a mis-perception, but that's how it feels.

[camelman]

Oh yeah, that sounds familiar.  It has been a while since I pulled one of those apart, but I seem to remember needing to pull the assembly up, hold the center shaft with a monkey wrench, and then remove the upper screw.  If you have trouble pulling the spring up, then just try lowering the bike back onto the forks.  If it is already on the forks, then have a friend push down on the front of the bike so that the spring protrudes.  Of course... I could be wrong.  ;-)

Camelman

[finkbuilt]

Oh yeah, that sounds familiar.  It has been a while since I pulled one of those apart, but I seem to remember needing to pull the assembly up, hold the center shaft with a monkey wrench, and then remove the upper screw.  If you have trouble pulling the spring up, then just try lowering the bike back onto the forks.  If it is already on the forks, then have a friend push down on the front of the bike so that the spring protrudes.  Of course... I could be wrong.  ;-)

Camelman

OK, thanks.

So..... how come all the manuals just seem to say "remove top fork bolt and add 4.2 oz of ATF"  to top up fork oil?  Is it ever that simple?

[bollingball]

Put a strap wrench on the tube. But you still need to fix the clamp

[socalenduro]

are you saying the fork tube is turning as you try to losen the top cap?

if that is the problem you just need to stop the tube from turning.
you said your top clamp is cracked, so just put the problem tube into the other side of the triple (the uncracked side) so you can clamp it with both bolts.

I noticed one of my top caps was pretty badly stripped towards the beginning threads. Which makes sense since you have to start the cap back in under pressure from the spring. I cleaned the threads, greased it, and threaded it in and out a few times without the spring in place to try to chase the threads.

[socalenduro]

also... i checked both my honda manual and the diagram on bikebandit.com

there is NOT supposed to be a spacer inside of that clamp.

these are cracking because of over tightening the bolt. they are only cast steel and over 30 years old at that!
torque wrenches are severely under used (myself included)

[finkbuilt]

are you saying the fork tube is turning as you try to losen the top cap?

if that is the problem you just need to stop the tube from turning.
you said your top clamp is cracked, so just put the problem tube into the other side of the triple (the uncracked side) so you can clamp it with both bolts.

I'm not exactly sure what is happening.  I can unscrew the topcap pretty much all the way, but when it gets to the end, it doesnt come off, it just keeps turning.  Maybe the ends( beginnings ) of the threads are bunged up like you said and are catching, then the tube starts turning.  This is all with the fork leg still mounted on the bike, and the fornt end jacked up.  I will let the bike down, and maybe the spring will get some pressure, and protrude, so that I can get a purchase on the tube, if that is what is turning.

[socalenduro]

hmmmmm well the fork tube (chrome slider part) can turn freely inside the fork lower. So im not sure that lowering the bike will really change anything. you need something to grip that top tub and keep it from turning.
is the cap that will not come off on the same side that the clamp is broken?

[bollingball]

socal that is why I told him to use a STRAP wrench to hold the tube

          Ken

[socalenduro]

im with you... just trying to come up with a solution for him if he doesnt have a good strap wrench....
if  he puts it in the unbroken side and its still turning with both bolts clamped.....i think its time for heat....

[finkbuilt]

hmmmmm well the fork tube (chrome slider part) can turn freely inside the fork lower. So im not sure that lowering the bike will really change anything. you need something to grip that top tub and keep it from turning.
is the cap that will not come off on the same side that the clamp is broken?

Yeah, same side. 

But the fork tube is not turning.  I tried pushing down on the front end and that did it .  Now the top bolt, the nut under it, and the spring/rod are poking up.  Can I just pour oil in there?  Sorry, no pic. 

I guess what I mean is, are the caps supposed to come completely off?  Mine just unscrewed from inside the fork tube, but they are still attached to the spring/rod assembly.  So, I fear that if I put oil in now, it wont go in the right place.  The diagram is kind hard to decipher having never had these forks fully apart before.

Sorry for the newbie-ness.

[MoMo]

Yes, you can add fork fluid once the top nut is up...Larry

[camelman]

I see what you are saying.  Lower the bike so the front suspension is compressed.  When you loosen the screw cap, it will raise up slightly.  If you have a friend sit on the bike, then it will come up a few inches.  At that point, you can slowly pour fork oil onto the spring and it will trickle down into the fork leg.  I've done this on quite a few different bikes now.  I think the issue comes from having the bike lifted up.  You don't need to do that with the 350f as long as you are only doing one side at a time.

Camelman

[finkbuilt]

Yes, you can add fork fluid once the top nut is up...Larry

good, thanks.

Done.

One side had about an ounce of clean ATF in it.   The other side had what must have been the original 1973 oil or something else.  It was nasty.  It smelled like bad axle grease.

I filled both sides up with 4.2 oz of Spectra 10W Fork oil.  I hope this doesn't conflict with the seals or anything, but the seals are probably shot anyway.

thanks for the patience.