Topic: '76 750F - rear brake still not working!

[BeSeeingYou]

Tug
   When you go to clean it out  the return hole is all but impossible to see looking in the bore.  Removing the bolt low down on the outside of the reservoir allows access to the "send and return" holes. 

   If you get the OEM kit it should include the boot and pushrod (mine did).

   I do believe the MC from a 75-8 Wing will work with a very minor modification.  It is identical in all but a small detail.  My guess is you will be fine after cleaning and new seals.

[Radam]

I had a hard time getting my 78F to bleed all the bubbles out. I'd go ride a couple blocks then come back and get more bubbles out. After I hooked up a large syringe to suck the fluid through, I finally got it right. This was with a freshly rebuilt MC. I have an extra rebuild kit for a 78F(rear). If it will work for you I'd sell for $25.

[Tugboat]

Don't have a pic handy, but see that part on the caliper where the paint has come off? The round part that the piston sits behind? It's right above that and is parallel to the orientation of the caliper.

[BeSeeingYou]

here is a pic of mine.

[Tugboat]

Thanks Adam - nope, different part numbers. 43510-392-305  is the OEM rebuild kit for 75-76 and 43530-410-305 is the kit of the 77-78. Guess I'll order one this weekend. I've been working at a shop lately and can probs get one at wholesale cost.

[scottly]

The point where the bleeder hole goes into the piston bore has to be the highest point on the caliper. I have an after-market caliper, and have to rotate the caliper on the axle to get the bleed passage in the right position, as well as have the bike leaning to the left. It looks like the F caliper has the bleeder off-set from the center of the bore to compensate for the rearward tilt of the caliper, but it may help to raise the rear a bit? (without seeing the orientation on the bike, it's just an educated guess...)