Author Topic: 1976 honda 750 f 1600 miles (Read 9213 times)

fatkid · « **Reply #25 on:** July 24, 2011, 10:15:40 AM »

well guys its all good in my hood . this am i took the parts bike solenoid of and put it on my bike hooked the jump box up and bam we now have electric start. and as a bonus i now have my head light back. i got to thinking the other day maybe that switch has to connections in there one to start and one to shut the light off. so i sprayed some contact cleaner in there then sparay some electric slide into it couple days later and i got contact. thanks for all the help guys. now my next problem she runs but only with the choke on i will need some carb work i guess any thoughts

BeSeeingYou · « **Reply #26 on:** July 24, 2011, 01:06:30 PM »

At a minimum you will need to pull the bowls off the carbs. Remove the floats and needle valves and clean it's seat. Make sure the float pivot pins are not sticky . The idle jets unscrew and they have a very small passage that you will have to clean without jamming any drill bits or needles through it. The main jet fits to the bottom of the emulsion tube but in my experience they came out as a unit and that's fine for cleaning. This was all I had to do to mine but my carbs were very clean to start with. If you have a lot of gas varnish build up you may need to do a more thorough cleaning by removing the carbs and taking them apart. You will know more when you pull the bowls off. It's easier to get at all four by pulling the airbox off and with the 750F that's not difficult.

Just noticed that you don't have the airbox on so that may be why it runs on the choke. Without the airbox it will run very lean.

fatkid · « **Reply #27 on:** July 26, 2011, 12:36:27 PM »

well i put the airbox back on and its running allot better but not perfect going to go threw the carbs thoughgot my rear brakes off and redone getting ready to put them back on see how they do

jdubb1977 · « **Reply #28 on:** July 26, 2011, 02:02:46 PM »

congrats on the find! i have the same bike, thought w/ a lot more miles. you'd originally asked about side covers. i got mine from David Silver Spares. Not the cheapest, but definitely very good quality, and they painted up really well. have fun!

markusarealius · « **Reply #29 on:** July 26, 2011, 02:25:02 PM »

Fatkid,

Great bike!! If you want original side covers let me know. I have a set I could part with - mark_mccreary@baylor.edu

Tanqueracer · « **Reply #30 on:** July 26, 2011, 05:18:30 PM »

I've recently made road ready a '75 F-1 with only 9K miles on it. After screwing with the carbs for a month I finally threw in the towel and bought all new brass for them. Re-assembled, installed and presto

the thing fired right up and has been perfect ever since. Of course I synched them but that only took 5 minutes with the new brass in them. Look on E-bay for the FULL kit with the needle jets included. You'll be miles ahead and a lot less frustrated than I was.

I had a new Yellow '76 back in the day and it was just spectacular. I only kept it a year and a half before I was forced to sell it. Now, 35 years later I have another one (blue this time) . Great find! I paid considerably more than you did for mine. You should be proud

fatkid · « **Reply #31 on:** July 28, 2011, 04:51:25 PM »

hey guys got all my brakes redone and on today they work great thanks for all the help . i desided since she was all put back together i would give her a bath without the seat and tank and sides on . man did she come clean . I really am getting attached to this one I am going to hate to sell it . next on my list is rebuild the carbs if my partner wants to put the money in her any does or dont's does anyone wants to throw my way

ekpent · « **Reply #32 on:** July 28, 2011, 05:24:23 PM »

Have not read the whole thread but are the carbs leaking.If needed just get gaskets. Probably all that needs to be done is to just strip them down a little and do a really good cleaning. Re use all the stock jets etc. since they are better than aftermarket anyways.Should not take much money,mostly time.

fatkid · « **Reply #33 on:** July 31, 2011, 04:50:44 AM »

hey srust going to try to clean the tank agian this time with clr then flush as you stated . did you coat the tank or put any oil in after you flush or just rinsce with gas ones and use it

BeSeeingYou · « **Reply #34 on:** July 31, 2011, 01:20:03 PM »

I wasn't using the tank right away so I put some transmission fluid in to coat it. Even with the petcock off you will not get all the water out and I usually had a few tablespoons left. I would tip the tank up so it all ran to the front bottom one side or the other it doesn't matter and then took a straightened out coat hanger with a rag on the end to soak up the water. I put a hair dryer in the fill hole to dry out the rest of the inside.

fatkid · « **Reply #35 on:** August 01, 2011, 09:50:23 PM »

srust thanks for the info . got the carbs off and cleaned running good now . the tank is done not as shinny as your but its coming . cleand and polished tonight .i cant get the turnsignals to flash had a spare flasher tried it but nothing sttill but was not sur if the spare was good. going to try the parts bike flasher out . anything else i should look for. man i am going to hate to see this one go .going to try to talk my patner into buying him out i want this one to stay. here is what she is so far

fatkid · « **Reply #36 on:** August 01, 2011, 09:52:10 PM »

Green74cb750 · « **Reply #37 on:** August 01, 2011, 10:03:49 PM »

I am happy for you, fatkid. You got yourself a really nice bike there! Jealous

fatkid · « **Reply #38 on:** August 01, 2011, 11:07:08 PM »

thanks green i am hoping to keep this one me and a friend have been buying these old girls that haven't been running 600 dollars or cheaper getting them running and brakes working and allot of spit shine . then selling them and not yet have i wanted keep it been albout the money till this one . i have learned allot on this one. and want to keep it . so if my partner doesn't let me buy him out i guess i will be bidding on my own bike if it doesn't go for to much. and if it does i do have a back up plan . found a 76 that is junk but has a title and i bought a parts bike to help fix the yellow one up that is mostly there . so i may just be putting another one of these together. which really is what i enjoy. but after tonight taking this one for a ride and from all you guys one this site i wont my own to ride again. I really cant say thanks not just to the people that have posted on my post but everyone on this site there is allot of good guys and way more knowledge than i will ever be able to take in. so my hat is off to all you thanks

BeSeeingYou · « **Reply #39 on:** August 01, 2011, 11:18:43 PM »

I think you should keep that bike for yourself. It's rare to find one like that and while I don't know who this partner is it needs to go to the person who will really appreciate it and take care of it. It's a real gem.

The flasher my be a voltage issue as mine often does not work at idle but at higher rpm it will flash. These bikes don't really charge below 2000-3000 rpm and the old flasher is probably weak too. I view it as an idiosyncrasy of these old bikes but there are generic automotive replacements that can be used. I don't know what off hand.

Bike is taking shape and looking good. Keep it.

fatkid · « **Reply #40 on:** August 02, 2011, 06:57:00 AM »

s rust i agree i am going to talk to him today but we did this as a agreement split it down the middle . And like i said if he doesn't want to set a price then i will have to bid on it myself on eBay.I really enjoy working on these bikes its so nice to have something out in the garage to work on that doesn't need fixed but that i want to fix. plus getting on here and reading all the post it makes me appreciate these bikes even more. and plus like you said this is the true find of the day . I will never find a bike with this low of miles for the price i paid . looked at the parts bike and it has a auto mobile flasher in it so the original must be bad.

fatkid · « **Reply #41 on:** August 02, 2011, 10:24:54 AM »

also got another question . should my tool kit be in a blue bag or black and what tools are in a factory kit. my parts bike came with two just trying ti figure it out

greenjeans · « **Reply #42 on:** August 02, 2011, 02:52:36 PM »

Yo fatkid, I like that you're keeping bikes on the road. What a great find. You must know that these low mile bikes don't come around much if ever !
I've been wrenching on these old CBs for about 5 years now and I've NEVER found one with mileage that low. I run a CL add constantly and even
run adds in the old fashioned newspaper from time to time. I have many friends in the oil business that meet alot of people that I'd never get to
in parts all over the state looking for CBs. They just don't turn up that often.

If I were you, I'd have to keep that one tucked away for yourself. Don't sell it. The market is way down anyway.
That "parts" bike is cleaner than anything I've ever started with - get it going and sell it instead.

Great bike. Good luck.

fatkid · « **Reply #43 on:** August 02, 2011, 04:23:05 PM »

i talked to him think he was pretty set on it going on ebay . and i dont blame him money is money but i really want her.

plus its not worth hard fealings in no way. well after i dry up these tears lol i will tell ya i got her put back together and and turn signals flashing with a modern round style flasher.. pictures will be coming . what do you all feel one of these bike will go for on ebay with this many miles?

Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er · « **Reply #44 on:** August 02, 2011, 08:37:56 PM »

Tool kit is blue. You can buy all the tools and bag from Honda for around $20 except the rear axle spanner (wrench) is not available.

BeSeeingYou · « **Reply #45 on:** August 02, 2011, 09:32:29 PM »

In my mind you only have to buy half the bike. Plus you need to be compensated for the time you have put into it. Your partners motives seem to be a bit more mercenary, it's all about the money. The Super Sports do not have the collector value of a KO or a K1 regardless of condition so if the thought is that you guys are sitting on a gold mine because of the prices you have seen for those early CB750s you will be disappointed. With Ebay it's hard to guess a price but I would say 2500-2800.

fatkid · « **Reply #46 on:** August 02, 2011, 10:32:39 PM »

well srust i hope its less than that i think max on that bike is 3000 even though i have seen them go for a little more ever now and then. he told me i could buy him out for 1500 and all the stuff we bought i keep but here is the run down we spilt the bike 300 each i bought the battery 43 and i went 320 miles and payed for the parts bike for 350. so rough numbers i already have 750 including gas in it . i will tell you one thing this is the last partner bike i get into. i really just threw him a bone cause he sold two bikes for me earlier this year and didn't charge me . so i told him the next one we can split we bought two 550CB split the price 600 and sold the running bike after i worked on it and cleaned it for 1350. plus some parts off the non titled bike for like 260 split . And the real kick in the nuts is i have done 90 percent of the work on this bike all he did was clean the exhaust both rims and front fender. man my dad always told me friends and business never work together well. so #$%* i guess to keep from having having feelings i will tell him to put it on eBay. and see what i want to pay for it. on a side note i did call a guy that has a 75 f that is really rough and i mean really rough not the right tank wrong head light no brakes no exhaust wrong turn signals missing the side covers. but it does run he said he was told that it has a 78 motor in it . when did they change the motor head design cause it looks like my motor thought that they were differant in 78? and with my parts bike i could build another f or cafe it but it wont have that low original miles. well thanks all for letting me vent alittle

fatkid · « **Reply #47 on:** August 02, 2011, 10:58:20 PM »

just wanted to add this to this page since it was part of the project

hey guy started looking over the brakes both front and rear master cylinders are stuck . i got the rear one off and took the retainer clip off which allowed the what i am going to call the plunger out but the rest is stuck up in it . any tricks to getting it out so I may rebuild.

srust58
Re: 1976 750f rear brake question
« Reply #1 on: July 04, 2011, 12:34:59 am »QuoteI had the same problem with my rear MC. What you got out is the pushrod and the piston is stuck up inside. Probably looks like this first pic. I put some penetrating fluid and let it sit for a while. Nothing. Heated the whole thing with a heat gun. Nothing. Took a screwdriver and pushed down hard on the piston and it moved in about 1/4 inch. Nothing. Decided to leave it till morning and when I set it down the piston popped out.

I think I would try the penetrating oil and maybe try shooting in compressed air through the outlet port. Have the cap on the reservoir. If that doesn't work try my technique ( I think the additional compression on the spring did it). As a last resort I was going to drill a hole into the piston for a screw and pull it out with that.

As for the front make sure you get the wire clip that holds the boot in place out as it will sit on top of the c clip. Once that is out find a way to hold down the piston as this will take pressure off the c clip and make removal easier. You need a deep reach c clip pliers and you won't find them at hardware or auto stores. mikesxs.com has them for around $10.00 or do a search and see how others have done it with modified tools. I filed down the tips of a long needle nose pliers. If you are in no hurry the $10 spent and a few days wait are less aggravating than the alternatives. You can see the wire boot clip in the second photo of the front MC internals. Third pic is the rear MC internals.
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fatkid
Full Member

Re: 1976 750f rear brake question
« Reply #2 on: July 04, 2011, 07:43:48 am »QuoteModifyRemovehey thanks again srust58 as always you are a book of knowledge. i got the front apart and back together it doesn't feel like its building much pressure so may need a rebuild. now the rear is a nother story . i have it soaking up some penetrating lube now . tried the air and the tapping but no go so we will let it set a while . if I cant get it i may have to ship it to you and have you tap it on that magic bench of yours. hey thanks again. oh also tried taking the front brake and hooking it up to the out put side and pump it back but couldn't seal up the line . cant beat hydraulic power.
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fatkid
Re: 1976 750f rear brake question
« Reply #3 on: July 07, 2011, 07:42:40 pm »QuoteModifyRemovewell i let it soak for 3 or 4 days tried air agian nothing so i took a grease fitting and tap and died it to 10mm by 1.25 mm screwed it in and about 20 pumps later i was holding everthing i needed. Had to fill ya in just incase u ever lost that magic table or anyone else needs to get one apart. any ideas or comments about a rebuild kit
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Jerry Rxman Griffin

Re: 1976 750f rear brake question
« Reply #4 on: July 07, 2011, 09:53:08 pm »QuoteHonda.

Grease guns seem to work the best and are not potentially lethal like compressed air at 120psi. How about doing a little more detailed write up with pictures for us other F guys? I don't believe I've seen it done this way on the rear.« Last Edit: July 07, 2011, 09:56:54 pm by Jerry Rxman Griffin » Report to moderator Logged
My soon-to-be EX-wife knows my 75 750F has been around MUCH longer than she has and understands this (scratch that) DOESN'T HAVE A CLUE
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srust58
« Reply #5 on: July 07, 2011, 10:08:44 pm »QuoteGreat to hear though I did clear a spot on the magic bench. If you remove the bolt below the reservoir it will give you access to the send and return holes so you can clean them out. The return is very small and impossible to see looking up into the bore. The OEM rebuild kits goes for about $40 and includes the boot and pushrod. The seals for the caliper are sold individually so you need the two piston seals and the small o ring joint seal. The dust boots are available too but I was able to reuse my old ones. The rear caliper is a twin piston design and also made up of two parts. I used my rebuilt front MC to pump out the pistons. Use a small C clamp to hold the outboard one in and slow and easy pump out the inboard piston. Clean out the seal groove and replace the piston, new seal and do a quick bleed. Clamp that one down and pump out the other. Once you get them both done you can split the caliper and replace the small O ring joint seal.
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srust58
«Grease guns seem to work the best and are not potentially lethal like compressed air at 120psi. How about doing a little more detailed write up with pictures for us other F guys? I don't believe I've seen it done this way on the rear.

I would second that. I was not sure this method would work on the rear MC. But then....I had a magic bench. « Last Edit: July 07, 2011, 10:15:29 pm by srust58 » Report to moderator Logged
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« Reply #7 on: July 07, 2011, 11:47:47 pm »Quoteor you all could do what i did if stock parts dont matter. I purchased a rear master off a 2006 SUZUKI GSXR 600...........and fabbed a little mounting bracket for it. trim a lil bit off the linkage, and its good to go.
I got pics of it on here somewhere
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MATT
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fatkid
« Reply #8 on: July 08, 2011, 06:51:49 am »QuoteModifyRemovehey guys getting ready to leave on vacation so will post pics later next weak. kinda hope vacation goes quick i want to get back and get on this thing.
KRONUS0100 good idea i am sure that would work great. I just cant do it to this old girl she has only 1646 original miles on here . but thanks for the idea

fatkid · « **Reply #48 on:** August 02, 2011, 11:07:15 PM »

he guys i just wanted to run this by you this bike has not ran since 1980. i put a jump box on it and tried the starter button. nothing and the head light went out when i let off the button the light never did come back on. I put oil down the cylinders and left the plugs out so i could turn it over by hand and see if i could get spark. if you were setting on the bike the right cylinder first was tested . it had spark then test the other three nothing so i went back to the first one . it now has no spark at all . were do i start and what do i check.
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steam-powered man
Re: 1976 750f no spark ?
« Reply #1 on: July 20, 2011, 03:55:59 pm »Quotemy current project/heap also had no spark, not registered since 2005. i fully charged the battery, cleaned/gapped the points, had v at the points and at the coils. tested the coils - yikes, all dead. 2 busted wires plus 2 faulty caps = nada.

i'd check these things first.
-- charge the battery overnight
-- clean both ends of the battery connections
-- clean the wiring connections to the points
-- clean/gap the points
-- check v at the points
-- check v at the coils
-- test the coils, with caps
-- new plugs
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1976 r75/6 daily runner
1996 carb'd ducati ss/cr boomer w/remus
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fatkid
« Reply #2 on: July 20, 2011, 05:42:32 pm »QuoteModifyRemovehey thanks for the info i cleaned the points and man oh man I just blew out 31 years if cobb webs. now the only other thing i am working on is no electic start
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srust58
« Reply #3 on: July 20, 2011, 06:40:27 pm »QuoteDon't think we have talked about this yet but the original starter button is a common age related failure point on this bike. The headlight is also fed through the starter button thus no headlight. The button is not available but a complete right side control is for about $100. Hondaman has mentioned another option of using a relay and fitting an aftermarket switch into the housing and others have also made their own set ups. That's the options you have. Just do a search and you will find plenty of info on this if you want to see the alternatives to a new stock switch. I would not bother with used parts here as they are at the failure point too.Report to moderator Logged
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fatkid
thanks guys any way to test the starter switch
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srust58
The switch sits in a plastic housing inside the right hand control. The plastic housing cracks and the internals of the switch fall apart. I was able to take out the two screws that hold the control together and you can get it open enough to see the starter switch. Report to moderator Logged
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fatkid
got all that done but here is my next thought when i hit the start button the lights on the indicater dash dim just a little . that means it has to be making a circut right so is there anything else to check. could the starter be stuck or bad maybe silinoid

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oteYou can also check the wiring. The wires go into the junction box on the frame above the headers. The black with red feeds the headlight and should have power when the switch is not pushed or you could just go to the headlight fuse and check for power there it's the same thing. The yellow with red goes to the starter relay(solenoid) and should have power when the button is pushed. Peeking in to see if the housing is cracked is easier but if that looks okay then test the wiring.

You could test the starter by jumping the positive wire from the battery and starter terminals on the solenoid with a large gauge wire of a screwdriver. If the starter button is okay and the starter spins while jumped then suspect the solenoid. I still suspect the starter switch as it's always the usual suspect.

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fatkid
did some looking this am the yellow and red wire has power all the way back to the solenoid . jump it and it turned the starter over so i am saying the solenoid is bad ? correct. but back to the light it still does not come on so i would say the switch is bad on the light side . ?
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srust58
It's very possible that the switch could fail like that. Give the solenoid a sharp rap with the handle of a screw driver as a last resort. So no power at the headlight fuse? Check the fuse close up and see that the contacts in the holder are clean. Sounds like the switch and the solenoid may be bad.Report to moderator Logged
1979 Yamaha XS650 owner since new
1976 CB750F1 mint original
1975 Yamaha XS650 project bike
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fatkid
Full Member

wires down in the wire box tested like this yellow red power when button pushed. no power on black and red at all but one time and it was weak . i flipped wires and plugged back in now when i hit the button the light comes on. as for the solenoid i will work on that . headed to pick up a nother 76f today has all my missing parts but no title
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Willy_754c
I had the same issue with the switch. I did a quick work-around (although ugly and not very correct) to get it running so I could work on other stuff. (Top photo)
Just got my new starter/kill switch in the other day. I got it from BikeBandit.com for about $110 shipped. It came much quicker than I expected. I figured OEM meant long wait, but it came in 4 days.

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fatkid
willy for the info. its funny how they all had the same problem . but for me i got a parts bike that has a switch that works perfect. but just in case i will keep bikebandets in mind . how is the 754c coming ?
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Willy_754c
worth a crap......I got in points, condensors, and caps. I just put them on, and tried to gap the points and time it. Couldn't get it. Running bad. I still have problems with cold cylinders. I think it's the connection between the caps and wires......I have cut some off to try to expose good wire, but still not getting a good connection. Got fed up with it for the night. Plus my rusty tank is bumming me out. Report to moderator Logged
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fatkid
guys its all good in my hood . this am i took the parts bike solenoid of and put it on my bike hooked the jump box up and bam we now have electric start. and as a bonus i now have my head light back. i got to thinking the other day maybe that switch has to connections in there one to start and one to shut the light off. so i sprayed some contact cleaner in there then sparay some electric slide into it couple days later and i got contact. thanks for all the help guys. now my next problem she runs but only with the choke on i will need some carb work i guess any thoughts

BeSeeingYou · « **Reply #49 on:** August 03, 2011, 10:19:18 AM »

I see two ways to deal with this. As friends he should realize your desire to keep this bike and just ask for a payment of his investment to this point. You also need to be honest about your intention to keep this bike and have an agreement that if you do sell it in the next year or three that you would come to some equitable agreement on splitting the profit. To me this is how friends would deal with this and not let money come between them.
As strictly business partners something different has to be worked out. Come to an agreement on the theoretical worth of the bike. Subtract the costs of what you both have into it (including an hourly rate for your time). What's left is the potential profit. Split that in half and add back your partners costs and you have a buyout price. Or you can bid for it on ebay and you both take a chance that it sells for more or less than the theoretical amount.
It seems you are doing most of the leg work so I am not sure what value this partner brings to the deal other than listing the bike on Ebay.

The same bike in nice shape with 8k on it sold for 2500 recently on ebay. A bike with less than 10k is a low mileage bike and I don't think it matters whether it has 2k or 6k as far as the price.

.

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Author Topic: 1976 honda 750 f 1600 miles (Read 9213 times)