Topic: Need to vent

[jleavesl]

So I decided to take a decent running CB500 and make it into my bike.  I created this: 



During the course of my building this bike I discovered a snapped clutch rod. I had to take the pressure plate off the clutch to   I replaced it with a new one and buttoned everything up last night.  All that was supposed to happen today was adjust the clutch, hook the tank up to the carbs and fire it off.  Apparently I'm too #$%*ing stupid to adjust a goddamned clutch.  I spent all day today trying to adjust the clutch to engage.  I didn't have the little ball that fits inside the mechanism, so I pilfered one from the kickstand (same size) to no avail.  I've spent four hours trying to fix it so I can roll it around while in gear (and the clutch lever pulled).  Nothing.  I can even get resistance in the lever, but it will not roll without spinning the engine.  The bike ran fine 3 months ago.  The clutch was ok...  I ruined it. 

So it has 48 hours until I get a sawzall and cut it up.  The manual is worthless on this (followed the little procedure on clutch adjustment and got nothing out of it).  I've wasted three months of my life and more money than I care to think about building this damned bike and I can't even clutch it.  Who cares if it runs if I can't shift it.  I can't believe I was dumb enough to think I could build this. 

[sick_seven_fifty]

Take a breather...you need it.  Then enlist some help from these guys, read everything you can in the manual regarding the clutch, then do some troubleshooting.  Don't give up though...I've given up on projects in the past and regret it...I lost some nice rides...including a 1966 Chevelle that I dumped $21k into.

[Nortstudio]

Are you saying the clutch is together correctly after your fix, and it's just the adjustment that's holding up the glory?  Just trying to clarify.

The adjustment can be a little flaky on a 550, and I believe the 500 is more so. The manual is a little confusing for the 550 as well, and I finally had some great folks here explain it to me, which was NOT all that similar to the manual.

Give a little more explanation, and one of the 500 clutch wizards will jump in here any minute....

Try to focus on the ride that will surely be occurring any day now. Your bike is gorgeous, and it will be a righteous ride for sure!

I don't want to throw you off even more if the 500 is far different than the 550. But this is a procedure sheet I saved from TwoTired long ago, when I was pulling my hair out with my clutch adjustment:
On the clutch cover is a screw adjuster and lock down nut.
The lever on the clutch cover actuates a cam  that presses on the clutch release.
The screw adjuster positions the entire cam near the actuator mechanism.
When the marks align, the cam should be *just* free of the clutch actuator. (So, the clutch is allowed to be fully engaged when released)
The cam itself is of an over-center design meaning as the pressure from the clutch springs get heavier, the cam provides less movement, thereby creating an increased mechanical advantage.  In other words the more the clutch lever travels, the easier it should be to move the lever.

The clutch cover adjustments should be done first, and the cable length and bar level position should be done afterwards.

The final arrangement should leave the lever with little free play when the clutch is fully engaged (lever let out).  And the last 1/3 of the bar level travel while applying clutch should be easier than the mid point lever position.

This is a lot easier to show in person than describe in text.

In effect, I loosen the clutch cover lock nut, position the case lever align marks, then turn the cover screw so that the internal cam is pressed against the actuator, then back off just enough so that no pressure or resistance is felt on the adjust screw, then lock the nut for the adjuster position.  Then adjust the cable length to position the bar lever where I need it.