Topic: Timing chain

[Daves_76_SS]

The timing chain on my750F was starting to make some noise so I adjusted the tensioner.  My question is this, it is still making a little noise.  How bad is it to run it with a little play in the chain?  How hard is it to install a new chain?
Thanks in advance!

[Daves_76_SS]

Nobody?

[Gordon]

1.  The cam chain is almost always going to make some noise.  It's virtually impossible to tell over a discussion board if it's a normal amount of noise or if it's something to be concerned about. 

2.  Installing a new chain (and possibly a new tensioner) requires removing the engine and then the cylinder head.  There are master link style cam chains available now, but if you get the stock endless style, you will also have to separate the engine cases.

[Daves_76_SS]

Awesome!  Thanks for the reply!  It is certainly better since I adjusted it, so Next time I'm around the dealer I'll get them to listen to it and see what they think!

[Steve F]

I'm thinking about doing the same thing on my yellow '76 750F too sometime soon.  While you will have to remove the engine, you only need to remove the valve cover, not the head.   That is of course (like was said before), if you get the master link type chain.  I haven't done this myself yet, but as it was explained to me, the new chain can be attached to the old chain and using the old chain to pull the new one through the engine around the crank and through the tensioner.   You will have to remove the tensioner spring device to make it easier getting the ends of the new chain riveted together.  I'm going to start the drudgery of pulling the engine out tomorrow (took the day off) to get the cam dialed in if possible.  I may end up replacing my cam chain too.........we'll see.  The bike has only 25K mikes so I think it won't be necessary (keeping my fingers crossed).
Regards, Steve F

[HondaMan]

The camchains are good for about 40,000 miles hard riding, 5,000 miles racing, 50,000-70,000 "normal" driving.

Make sure your tensioner is not stuck: they frequently are. They get burrs on the shaft where the screw tightens down, then won't extend into the case like they should. Remove the tensioner and check it for smooth operation through its whole range before tearing into the engine.

Unless you just want to tear into the engine... 

[Daves_76_SS]

Awesome!  Thank you!  I will take the tensioner off in the morning and check it before I do anything else!

[Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er]

Another option in case the tensioner isn't adjusting properly and doing it's job due to a burr on the shaft or the tensioner spring being marginal and not giving enough tension to the cam chain would be to "manually" adjust the tensioner rod. When you have the engine/valves all set in the correct position and ready to go, loosen the adjuster nut and take something like a drill bit/nail and insert into the tensioner shaft hole and persuade/push the shaft against the cam chain with a little more authority then retighten the nut while holding the shaft in place. This may help quiten it down some.