Topic: blew a fork seal.. have a couple easy questions re: tools

[cameron]

Hi.
So, I read up HERE, and in the manual.. and I am preparing to change my fork seals..

I ordered seals.. got the right fluid, know the procedure.. etc etc...
But, I only ride (no car) so I like to plan. And I have until next week till the parts arrive.

My questions, re: special tools:

1. I have snap ring pliers. Do I need the special one? 07914-SA50001?

2. How about that hex bolt on the bottom.. the 6mm. HOW FAR IN IS IT?.. and how much diameter do I have? E.G.. can I reach it with a long socket extension and a hex drill bit? Or do I need tool 07919-3230000?

3. Any advice?

[DJ_AX]

http://www.salocal.com/sohc/tech/frkng/frkng.htm

That tutorial is a very good one...

I've since changed out several sets the same way ... easy! 

First time it took me a few hours (I was in no rush)
Last time I did it it took me 20 minutes (still no rush)
Enjoy!


Add: I have no special tools.. except for a piece of a broom stick and PVC pipe.
... Used a regular old allen wrench on that bottom bolt.

[psycherhexic]

can you elaborate/clarify what the broomstick is doing.. I have a hard time understanding his terminology there.

[Johnie]

The broomstick is used to hold the allen bolt at the bottom so it does not just spin when you try to remove it. My advise would be to take the forks out in one piece and drain the oil. Put a towel around the lower fork leg and lightly clamp it in a vise. Then try to loosen the allen bolt first before you take the top fork cap off. The spring and internals will usually hold the area in place so you can unscrew that allen bolt. I have done all my bikes this way and have not had to resort to the broomstick yet. This pic is of my 360, but pretty much the same guts you will see in yours. Click the pic to enlarge it. Good luck and let us know how you come out.

[DJ_AX]

DOH .. you beat me to it Johnie...
I was just going to say....

When you tighten the top nut down it puts pressure on the broomstick which holds the inner parts keeping them from turning, for when you remove the allen bolt on the bottom. Otherwise the insides will turn along with that allen bolt.

Some say an air impact gun usually works, but I don't have one handy at home and the broomstick method has worked for me every time so far! (3 times to be exact ) Twice the allen bolts we're badly locked and stripped (but not completely)

And of course a good soaking first with penetrating oil. I did have to put a little breaker bar on the allen wrench... but that easily unclamped enough to hand turn 'em the rest of the way out.

[psycherhexic]

cool. I should try to get this done before my new tires get to the shop where I'm  paying  someone to put them on...

where can I get a reasonably priced vice?

[cameron]

Thats a great tutorial.
It should be no problem then!

[DJ_AX]

Tires .... heh heh...
With the thought of how important they are I took 'em to my local dealership to do mine the first and last 3 times. Twice they messed it up and I had to bring 'em back for a re-do.

Now I'm thinking.. as important as they are, I should be doing them myself! 
Another thousand miles before I have to search 'bout that.



And the other tutorials on that site, I have found helpful as well.

[phil71]

after rounding out enough of those allen bolts, I've learned that an impact gun is really the way to go. it'll shock it out and you don't really need to put a lot of grip on the tube, potentially marring it. take the whole fork assy off the trees and over to a mechanic with an impact gun if you haven't got access to one at home.

[psycherhexic]

^^ hmm.. this might be an option.

in general.. when disassembling bolts should I be putting some type of "goo" on them when re-assembling?

the only mechanics I've done was BMX stuff 12 years ago when I was 12 

[Johnie]

The later Honda manuals say to use blue Loc-Tite. The red is permanent so you don't want that. The early manuals, at least my KO manual does not say anything about a liquid lock. I use the blue on all my fork allen screws.

[mjstone]

I used an impact wrench, the hit with a big hammer type, on mine.  Just take an old allen wrench the right size (6 mm if I'm remembering right) and hack saw off the long end then insert it in an appropriate size socket that fits the impact wrench (this gives the wrench the reach it needs to get past the axle clamp studs).  I give them a good whack before I pull them off the bike (no need to clamp them in a vise this way) and before pulling the guts out of them.  It's been a while since I've checked the cost on these impact wrenches, but I'd be suprised if they were more than $10.00.

MJ