Author Topic: k1 clutch won't disengage after sitting (Read 14380 times)

Prospect · « **on:** July 14, 2011, 04:43:30 PM »

My k1 has been sitting for about 18 years or so. I have it running nicely but when I pull the clutch lever and put her into first the bike immediately stalls. I guess the clutch is not disengaging. I don't want to take the clutch apart if I don't have to but I have heard that sometimes the plates do get stuck from sitting and rocking the bike back and forth while in gear will free them. Has anybody done this and does it work?

camelman · « **Reply #1 on:** July 14, 2011, 04:52:51 PM »

It works a treat. It might take some work to get it loose though.

Grabcon · « **Reply #2 on:** July 14, 2011, 04:53:45 PM »

This happens a lot with these bikes when they sit for years. I just got a barn bike a few months ago with the same issue. The clutch plates are just stuck by the sealing of the oil on the plates for many years without being used. There most likely is nothing wrong and you should be able to get it operational without taking anything apart.

I would get it on the flat and drive it. It might stall a couple of times but it should break loose.

If not then pull it appart.

number13 · « **Reply #3 on:** July 14, 2011, 04:58:44 PM »

Rocking works great
1) Put bike in gear
2)Pull in clutch lever
3)Rock bike forward and backward till the plates free

You may also have some luck starting the bike and letting it
warm up for 5 minutes. That will heat the oil and make un-sticking easier.

dave500 · « **Reply #4 on:** July 15, 2011, 12:43:47 AM »

if your a confident rider,with the engine running push the bike in neutral as fast as you can then jump on and select first,get to third or fourth then declutch and power on and off till it breaks free,,or pull it apart like i would do on a clutch unused for 18 years.

trueblue · « **Reply #5 on:** July 15, 2011, 04:04:38 AM »

my bike sat for nearly 12 months and the clutch was stuck, I just clicked it into first, pulled the clutch in and held it, cranked the starter the bike rolled off using the starter to pull it along once it started running I just rode the rear brake and gave the throttle a few good twists, it didn't take long for the clutch to pop free.

VTCBike750 · « **Reply #6 on:** July 15, 2011, 04:31:07 AM »

Or you could take it apart, its pretty easy. It would also give you a chance to inspect the plates and ensure that everything is properly reassembled.

dave500 · « **Reply #7 on:** July 15, 2011, 04:39:04 AM »

im with vtc,trying to force it free might damage the bucket fingers.

VTCBike750 · « **Reply #8 on:** July 15, 2011, 04:53:56 AM »

You can use a screw driver and a hammer to rotate the clutch nut, but grab one of these they're cheap, work great, easy, and allows you to torque it down some.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270759977366

Prospect · « **Reply #9 on:** July 15, 2011, 07:30:57 AM »

Thanks for all the great info but I just can't get the clutch to disengage after trying the above tricks. I guess I'll have to take it apart and see inside.

Patrick · « **Reply #10 on:** July 15, 2011, 07:49:32 AM »

When I first got one of my 750s running I used the rocking method to free stuck clutch plates. It worked fine and I was able to ride the bike. A drawback developed, though, The clutch plates had dried out badly when the bike sat. After I rode it for about a week I noticed a drop in oil pressure. I dropped the oil pan and found that the screen on the oil pump was clogged with fibers from disintegrating clutch fiber plates.

If this were my bike I would pull the clutch apart, free the plates, inspect them for dry rot or other damage and soak them in oil before trying them. I was lucky. I had an oil gauge mounted in place of the galley plug and was able to notice the drop in oil pressure before it dropped completely and killed my motor.

Patrick

Prospect · « **Reply #11 on:** July 15, 2011, 10:58:54 AM »

I disassembled the clutch and freed the plates loose. They were stuck but not too bad. Cleaned them a bit and soaked them in oil. Right now I'm putting back the clutch lifter plate and the Honda manual doesn't specify the torque settings for the four bolts that hold the plate in there and compress the springs. Clymer states about 6-7 in/lbs. Question is how far should I torque the four bolts. If I go all the way the springs are very compressed (see pic) and now the clutch is very hard to pull and doesn't disengage. If I loosen the torque bolts the clutch is disengaged all the time and I can go into gear without pulling the clutch or stalling. So where is the happy median?

Patrick · « **Reply #12 on:** July 15, 2011, 12:18:27 PM »

There is no happy medium. If, when you torque down those screws, the clutch does not disengage, then you have assembled the clutch incorrectly. Take care when putting the clutch basket back on. If you are 90 or 270 degrees off the basket will not seat completely and the clutch will not work. Take care putting the pressure plate back in the basket. If you put it in wrong the plates will not contact the pressure plate correctly and the clutch won't work. Before nyou put in the star plate and the screws the fibers and steels should be loose in the basket so that when you put in the springs the springs push the plates together.

And 6-7 pounds is the right torque. Remember you are screwing steel into aluminum. Do not over torque.

Patrick

trueblue · « **Reply #13 on:** July 15, 2011, 02:51:56 PM »

Quote from: Prospect on July 15, 2011, 10:58:54 AM

I disassembled the clutch and freed the plates loose. They were stuck but not too bad. Cleaned them a bit and soaked them in oil. Right now I'm putting back the clutch lifter plate and the Honda manual doesn't specify the torque settings for the four bolts that hold the plate in there and compress the springs. Clymer states about 6-7 in/lbs. Question is how far should I torque the four bolts. If I go all the way the springs are very compressed (see pic) and now the clutch is very hard to pull and doesn't disengage. If I loosen the torque bolts the clutch is disengaged all the time and I can go into gear without pulling the clutch or stalling. So where is the happy median?

Are you sure that is 6-7 in/lbs and not ft/lbs. in/lbs just sounds a bit light on that is all

Prospect · « **Reply #14 on:** July 15, 2011, 03:39:50 PM »

yes I meant ft/lbs.

Quote from: Patrick on July 15, 2011, 12:18:27 PM

Take care when putting the clutch basket back on. If you are 90 or 270 degrees off the basket will not seat completely and the clutch will not work. Take care putting the pressure plate back in the basket. If you put it in wrong the plates will not contact the pressure plate correctly and the clutch won't work.

Can you explain that a bit more. The manual doesn't touch on this but it looked like there wasn't a wrong way to put the basket back in. Here are some pics.

CrankyOldGuy · « **Reply #15 on:** July 15, 2011, 03:52:47 PM »

Hmmm ...

I noticed in the pic in the post above that the ends of two of the ears are missing. When I took my clutch apart after it was rebuilt by the local Honda mechanic an end of one of the ears was missing.

Are broken ears a common problem? I had mine repaired because I thought if I didn't the clutch assembly would be out of balance.

Never did find the broken piece ... Patrick did you find any of the broken pieces?

Harry O.

Patrick · « **Reply #16 on:** July 15, 2011, 05:40:46 PM »

I have broken off an ear or two in my time, but I've never used a star plate with one, let alone two, broken ears. If that were my bike, I would probably replace it. I'm no engineer, but it seems to me that it might be important to have some balance to a spinning plate.

With the clutch basket and plates on the bike, but before you install the star plate and springs, if you reach in along the edge of the basket where the plate fins are you should be able to feel some movement between the clutch plates. Just a little, so you can tell they're not pinched.

How long did you soak the fibers in oil before you reinstalled them?

I've never used a broken star plate so I can't tell you what effect it could have. Maybe someone else knows.

Patrick

splitt · « **Reply #17 on:** July 15, 2011, 06:40:55 PM »

Those steel plates are stamped steel. If you feel the edges of the steel plates with your hand, you will notice that one side will have a smooth edge, the other side will have a slight lip. You should install the steel plates so they all face the same direction. (either in or out) If the lip of two of the steel plates face each other, it can cause them both to drag against a single fiber plate. This can make the clutch feel like it is fully disengaging. It will feel progressively worse if more than one pair of the steel plates have been installed that way.

MCRider · « **Reply #18 on:** July 15, 2011, 06:57:01 PM »

The four bolts should pull the lifter plate right down on the studs. Then give them a grunt to keep them from coming out, that's all.

As already mentioned, it that is not happening you have installed the hub to pressure plate incorrectly. There are 4 ways it can go together. only one, maybe 2 ways they can go together and get the splines aligned propeerly. If it is improper you run a high risk of breaking that lifter plate as your is already broken. The trick is to mark the top of a post and the pressure plate right next to it so you can get it back together properly. I've got some pics, I'll go dig up. In the meantime BE CAREFUL.

MCRider · « **Reply #19 on:** July 15, 2011, 07:03:24 PM »

This is how you mark it to get it back together right.

This is the side view when the splines are engaged properly:

IF the splines don't engage you see daylight in the assembly.

VTCBike750 · « **Reply #20 on:** July 15, 2011, 08:36:25 PM »

Just a few points.

Sharp edges of the steel clutch plates should face the pressure plate (towards the engine)
Tighten the clutch nut till its tight. The manual says something 30 ft/lbs, but I never have. Just until tight.
Id tighten the 4 bolts down till the springs are fully compressed, 6-7 ft/lbs sounds good.
Loosen the adjusting nut on the engine cover plate then place on the engine and adjust screw appropriately. Til resistabce then back 1/4 turn and tighten bolt.

Good luck

Prospect · « **Reply #21 on:** July 16, 2011, 04:57:30 AM »

Thanks for the really great info. I'll take the clutch out again on Monday and see if things line up.

Prospect · « **Reply #22 on:** July 18, 2011, 06:15:48 PM »

Well it worked! I took the clutch apart again and things weren't lining up. The clutch center didn't line up with the pressure plate. I haven't had a chance to run the bike to see but now when you pull the clutch lever the clutch disengages. Thanks again for all your help!

MCRider · « **Reply #23 on:** July 18, 2011, 06:19:20 PM »

Quote from: Prospect on July 18, 2011, 06:15:48 PM

Well it worked! I took the clutch apart again and things weren't lining up. The clutch center didn't line up with the pressure plate. I haven't had a chance to run the bike to see but now when you pull the clutch lever the clutch disengages. Thanks again for all your help!

YW

VTCBike750 · « **Reply #24 on:** July 18, 2011, 06:43:10 PM »

Awesome!

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Author Topic: k1 clutch won't disengage after sitting (Read 14380 times)