Author Topic: 550k sputtering and backfiring - SOLVED (Read 7618 times)

Bankerdanny · « **Reply #25 on:** July 17, 2011, 03:41:31 PM »

Remove the round cover on the right side of the engine case, the chrome one that says Honda and is held on by two screws.

The points and condenser are behind it. The condensers are the small barrels. They are connected to the points by a wire with a fork connector at the end and held in place by a very small nut. Check and make sure that the wires are connected and the nut is tight.

Download the repair manual from this site. You will find a photo.

tylersilicate · « **Reply #26 on:** July 17, 2011, 03:44:33 PM »

How do I clear the vent and access it? If I have the gas tank off?

Bankerdanny · « **Reply #27 on:** July 17, 2011, 04:00:45 PM »

The vent is the pinhole in the gas cap. You can clean it out with a very small drill bit

tylersilicate · « **Reply #28 on:** July 17, 2011, 05:05:24 PM »

I checked the points and everything look to be fine. All wires attached and nuts were secured. I stuck a very small drill bit through the pin hole and twisted it around a bit and then blew threw it. It seemed to run a little better but not perfect. It would idle and run fine under 5k rpm.

DJ_AX · « **Reply #29 on:** July 17, 2011, 05:27:25 PM »

When we say "checking the points" that should include checking the timing and adjusting if necessary and the gap, also adjusting if necessary. Did you do that?

DJ_AX · « **Reply #30 on:** July 17, 2011, 05:38:32 PM »

Here's a link to how to do it.

http://www.sohc4.net/?p=48

It reads for the 750 but it's the same for the 550.

Trav-i · « **Reply #31 on:** July 17, 2011, 05:39:54 PM »

Man, I'd come down and help ya out if I wasn't so darn busy this week (I'll probably be out of town til next Monday). If you still can't get it figured out shoot me a PM and I'll work out a time to come help ya out.

Travis

tylersilicate · « **Reply #32 on:** July 17, 2011, 07:02:31 PM »

I'll read that link and re-do everything on the points tomorrow after work.

Thanks for all your help guys. I will post updates/more questions!

tylersilicate · « **Reply #33 on:** July 18, 2011, 12:44:07 PM »

I changed out the spark plugs and if anything it runs worse. I conked out about 1/4 mile from the house and I couldn't even get it to run from popping the clutch. Had to leave it and come back and get it.

I guess I will attempt to do the condensers and points tomorrow.

TwoTired · « **Reply #34 on:** July 18, 2011, 02:00:38 PM »

Did you simply ignore Reply #19 in this thread?

Or, are you just enjoying the struggle?

tylersilicate · « **Reply #35 on:** July 18, 2011, 05:03:45 PM »

Quote from: TwoTired on July 18, 2011, 02:00:38 PM

Did you simply ignore Reply #19 in this thread?

Or, are you just enjoying the struggle?

I'm sorry I didn't even see it.

I'll go do that right now

tylersilicate · « **Reply #36 on:** July 18, 2011, 05:17:45 PM »

Voltage:

At Rest - 11v
Running - 11.3v
Rev'd (6K RPM) - ~12.6 (increases from 11.3v as more throttle is given).

I don't have a way to turn my headlights off on this bike, at least that I know of.

tylersilicate · « **Reply #37 on:** July 18, 2011, 05:58:32 PM »

So after some internet investigation it looks like the all the cells in the battery are dead. So I need a new one.

Could this be my issue?

TwoTired · « **Reply #38 on:** July 18, 2011, 08:01:20 PM »

Quote from: tylersilicate on July 18, 2011, 05:58:32 PM

So after some internet investigation it looks like the all the cells in the battery are dead. So I need a new one.

Could this be my issue?

The low voltage can certainly be a run issue, as that is where power to spark the plugs originates. Not yet sure if your battery is bad. None of them have infinite capacity, so simply being drained is a possibility. These bikes won't charge the battery at idle. In fact, they will deplete at idle, and faster with the lights on. To have the bike fully charge a depleted battery will take about 10 hours at 4000-5000 RPM.

Best to have charger separate from the bike and follow the directions that come with the charger. The standard battery for a CB550 shouldn't really be charged faster than a 1.2 Amp rate (for 10-12 Hours). But, they can usually tolerate 2 amps if the temperatures are favorable.

If you notice lots of bubbling (outgasing) or the voltage go higher than 14.5 V discontinued charging.

Once you have a known good, fully charged battery in the bike, then do the RPM and voltage test again to determine if your charging system is healthy. The fact that revving the engine increased battery voltage some, is a good sign, both for battery and the charging system. Simply not enough data to assign fault yet.

You can turn off the headlight by removing the headlight fuse, at least during the troubleshooting phase. That should save 4-5 amps of battery drain and help restore the battery charge state.

Cheers,

tylersilicate · « **Reply #39 on:** July 19, 2011, 06:42:51 AM »

I have a trickle charger and those readings were after it had been plugged up for a few hours.

DJ_AX · « **Reply #40 on:** July 19, 2011, 07:46:08 AM »

I leave my trickle charger on at least overnight. 24 hours seemed to make a BIG difference.

TwoTired · « **Reply #41 on:** July 19, 2011, 12:02:45 PM »

Quote from: tylersilicate on July 19, 2011, 06:42:51 AM

I have a trickle charger and those readings were after it had been plugged up for a few hours.

What is the rating on the trickle charger?

You must put back 120% of what was taken out.
A 12 amp hour battery puts out 1 amp for 12 hour (crude approximation).

To recharge you must provide 1 amp for 14 hours. (Not super accurate, just trying to relay the basic concept).

Cheers,

tylersilicate · « **Reply #42 on:** July 19, 2011, 03:22:15 PM »

Let it charge overnight and while I was at work. Close to 24 hours total. The trickle charger showed green light.

Rest - 12v
Idle - 11.84v
rev (6K rpm) - 14v

still runs like crap

TwoTired · « **Reply #43 on:** July 19, 2011, 03:54:12 PM »

At rest the battery should read between 12.6 and 12.8 V.

At idle the voltage is showing you that the battery is depleting.
The good news is that 14 V when revved indicates your charging system is working. And that should be plenty of voltage to run the ignition system.

"Running like crap" shows your disdain for the problem, but doesn't give us much data to postulate any theories. You might try a more descriptive narrative.

Have you tried new spark plugs or reading the deposits when the problem occurs?

Have you checked for fuel in the carbs when the problem occurs?

When was the last routine 3000 mile tuneup performed?

What is the status of the air filter?

Cheers,

tylersilicate · « **Reply #44 on:** July 19, 2011, 04:12:17 PM »

It is still running just like it was when the problem began. Does fine at lower rpm's starts to stutter and backfire and then when the throttle is let off it will immediately stall. The bike will idle just fine if it is a cold crank and will start up the first time. After I conk out once or twice the battery will start to lose power. The lights will dim the horn will stop working and I won't be able to crank it. Sorry if I provided lack of detail!

So far I have:

Cleaned gas tank
Cleaned gas filter
Cleaned petcock
Ran Seafoam through carbs
Changed all four spark plugs
Cleaned the air filter

--

I just bought the bike july 4th weekend. So I am not sure of the last routine tune up. I don't know how to check the carbs for gas, I am trying to be diligent to taking things apart because I am just a college kid with not a lot of money to spend so I don't want to break things.

tylersilicate · « **Reply #45 on:** July 19, 2011, 04:57:41 PM »

I have one line coming down from the petcock. There is a white plastic tube attached in between the petcock and the carb. I assume this is the fuel line and maybe a filter?

There is a smaller tube that is attached down by the second carb (where the fuel line comes in) but it is not attached to anything. Does anyone know what this is? or where it goes?

tylersilicate · « **Reply #46 on:** July 19, 2011, 06:07:25 PM »

I filled it all the way up with gas and it drove like a dream again.

So the reason it felt like I wasn't getting gas is because it didn't have any.. who knew?

I think the spark plugs may have fouled out and that's why I ran out of gas so much early than usual.

Thanks for all the tips and suggestions guys. You all really helped me knock out some of the regular maintenance my bike needed.

I feel like a dunce but at least it works and I made some positive improves to my bike. Again, thanks everyone!

vance · « **Reply #47 on:** July 20, 2011, 04:07:24 AM »

Maybe next time ask Karl for help

sling blade

Duanob · « **Reply #48 on:** July 20, 2011, 09:48:10 AM »

Quote from: tylersilicate on July 19, 2011, 06:07:25 PM

I filled it all the way up with gas and it drove like a dream again.

So the reason it felt like I wasn't getting gas is because it didn't have any.. who knew?

I think the spark plugs may have fouled out and that's why I ran out of gas so much early than usual.

Thanks for all the tips and suggestions guys. You all really helped me knock out some of the regular maintenance my bike needed.

I feel like a dunce but at least it works and I made some positive improves to my bike. Again, thanks everyone!

I knew it was fuel issue but in human nature, people tend to do things the hard way. Now go ahead and shrug shoulders and slap forehead.

Smitty057 · « **Reply #49 on:** July 20, 2011, 11:02:20 AM »

tylersilicate,

I live in Grant Park so hit me up if you need help with something.

News:

Author Topic: 550k sputtering and backfiring - SOLVED (Read 7618 times)