Topic: fmctm1sw Ugly 750 K3 (project name: Mr. Yuk!)

[Tews19]

Curious, how long did it take you to remove and install? All by yourself or with help?

[fmctm1sw]

Curious, how long did it take you to remove and install? All by yourself or with help?

I did it myself, it didn't take long.  I used the straps to pull it up, and then put a jack under it and redid the straps.  Would have been much easier if someone was there to left it into the straps.  I remembered I don't have exhaust studs on my cylinder head though.  No doubt made it way easier.

[lucky]

For what it's worth.....
I dis-assembled everything and cleaned as well as I could with a few shots of WD-40 and then some PB Blaster. I let that sit for a while I boiled up a big pot of water. Poured the hot water in a bucket and put both fork tubes (Seal side down) in the water.

After about 15 minutes, I could get my seals out, still wasn't easy but they did pop right out with damaging the tubes. I suppose the same method could be done with a heat gun.... I don't have one so I used what I thought would work... Now that I think about it, I may have read that here somewhere.

I've been looking around here for a suggestion..... I am going to chemically clean a tank that someone coated with a Kreem like goop.... Where the heck can you dump MEK? or Acetone? probably not a good idea to pour it out in the storm drain in front of the house.....
Phil

MEK and Acetone absorb water very quickly.
I would just pour that stuff on concrete and let it evaporate, or save it for cleaning purposes. If it is dirty let it sit, it will separate, and you can pour off the clean portion and save it.

Right ...Do not pour it in a drain!!!

[Old75_ratafe]

Looking good man your bike was almost as nasty as mine started.

[fmctm1sw]

Gosh, this poor thing...  Shortly after I got the motor back in I found out I had no compression of cylinder #1.  Not wanting to take the motor back out, I sat it in the corner of my garage until last weekend.  I rearranged the garage and put it out in front with my 650 project.  I did a leakdown test and found it was an exhaust valve issue.  I picked up a borescope a few months ago and used it to look into the exhaust port.  There was a red wire smashed between the exhaust valve and seat.  I got a look at it from inside the spark plug hole too.  I saw enough of it to grab with a pair of those long nose scissor looking things.  I don't know if it was red heat shrink tubing or red wire with the stranded center pulled out but I got it out.  I readjusted the valve clearance and a few kicks later the compression came up.  All that time sitting... for that....  I checked my timing statically and it seemed ok at first.  But I noticed my points were just closing at the F mark.  It seems from the double-checking I've done that the points should be just OPENING at the F mark.  I wouldn't think it would be that far off.  I'm wondering if my advancer is in the wrong way.  Something tells me I've made that mistake before.  As an aside, I've never seen the bike run, it was bought as a non runner.  Spark is very weak too, I can see it but barely.  I pulled the caps off and found the caps have the following resistance values: 5k, 5k, 68k, and 96k.  I'll see if I get any better spark without the caps and then go from there.  Brand new battery is here and a few other things on the way now.

[fmctm1sw]

Alright.  New battery in and got my starter relay and proper fuse block.  I had real good spark after I pulled the caps off so I picked up four new NGK spark plug caps.  Nothing on 2/3 though.  I found the yellow wire had no continuity from where the points connected to it to the point that it plugs into the coil.  I ran another lead to the coil and had strong spark on all four. I was still baffled by the points.  1/4 were just closing when 1/4 reached the "F" mark as mentioned in the previous post.  I thought I might have the advancer in wrong but there was only one way to put it in there.  I just switched the yellow and blue wires and set the timing for 1/4 off the 2/3 points.  I sprayed starting fluid into the carbs and kicked it a few times and it popped a little.  I put the exhaust back on it and filled the bowls with gas.  I kicked it and it started one one kick.  Still need bowl gaskets and the body parts (tank and side covers) are nasty so there's a ways to go yet but the motor doesn't have to come back out.  Headlight, turn signals need wired up too...

[fmctm1sw]

I've learned some more things the hard way...  The airbox rubber boots are completely petrified, not going onto the carbs no how.  At least the box seems much easier to get on and off than my 350/550.  I don't like the exhaust but it will have to do for now.  I just ends up being real tight where it mounts to the foot peg posts.  Also, the side stand is impeded by it.  I'm going to do the same thing I always do before I stress about the minor stuff, I'm going to make sure it runs well first.  Then, knowing me, I'll ride it and never get around to getting those nice bits on it...

[Vincent P]

Stunning work to date.
Curious, are you thinking of keeping that seat??? 

[fmctm1sw]

Stunning work to date.
Curious, are you thinking of keeping that seat??? 

Thank you.  It pales in comparison to the work others have done here but it was a real heap when I picked it up.  I haven't even thought about the seat yet..     

[750 Cafe Commuter]

I decided to forge ahead with motor removal.  I got it out myself using the same technique I used on my 550.  I had to remove the oil filter housing and custom tappet covers I have.  It took a little wiggling but between the two rollers and a hydraulic jack I got it out.

Nice engine removal skills!  I've always used that method where you wrap a chain around the engine and attach to the bumper of your truck, then have your heaviest friends sit on the bike to hold it down, then put the truck in 1st and drive away real fast.  Ironically though, whenever I've done this, I've found the engine was in such bad shape, it wasn't worth removing in the first place. 

[fmctm1sw]

I made some more headway today.  I got my parts form bikebandit yesterday and got a lot of odds and end nuts and bolts where they need to go.  The stock airbox back on it with a clean K&N air filter.  All of the electrics are working save the turn signals, I still need a flasher relay.  I got the ignition/seat lockset I bought off ebay today including the elusive under tank mounting bracket.  I still need to order new brake shoes and realized I forgot to buy a caliper bleeder so one of those is on the way.  Tomorrow I hope to start it.  I think it will look pretty respectable once I get the body parts for it.  I'll probably end up getting a set of side covers from frankenstuff.  I also realized my brake line is made for a later caliper.  I'm going to have to put a pretty big bend in it to make the correct angle.

[fmctm1sw]

Picked up a turn signal flasher and ordered a bleeder screw for the caliper last night.  Gas tank is on it and I rode it down the road (real slow since I have no brakes) but it's real strong.  I still need a brake light, brake shoes and a couple other things but it's coming along.

[fmctm1sw]

Did the brake work today.  Having issues with the front disk but the rear shoes was a complete success.  I was completely out of adjustment at the rear adjuster.  I also noticed my brake pedal didn't have a the adjustment bolt that holds the pedal down.  I'm guessing it was off an F model since the pedals I saw for the F bikes on ebay didn't have that little tab there.  Some quick photos and I put about 1.5 miles on it around the neighborhood. 

I used some little nails and washers to hold the spring tension and slide the shoes up and off.  And one note....  If your fingers are between the shoes when they slide off the top, they may bite you 

[fmctm1sw]

I picked up a replacement taillight backing since mine was bent up and only two lens screws would go in.  Then I couldn't get the light working again.  I messed around with the connectors for a bit and got it back on again.  Then... my headlight quit working!  Eventually I realized that my fuseblock was all crusted up and two fuses were too long.  I picked up a bunch of fuses from Western Hills Honda a while back so I got three proper fuses in it now.  All electrics work and I rode it down the street again.  Need to get a decent body set and then register it.

[fmctm1sw]

Did some chrome work today.  The spokes were all rusty so I hit them with Flitz and 0000 steel wool.  We'll see how long that lasts.  It's not much to write home about but it starts on one kick.  Plus, it was a real pig when I picked it up.  I have a set of side covers from Frankenstuff on the way now too.  A paint job and I think it will look half decent.

[fmctm1sw]

 

[fmctm1sw]

I have no idea why I continue to torture myself with painting but I do.  I'm just not good at it but I keep telling myself "one more try."  My paint went on way too thick and had all kind of runs brush marks in it so I sanded the tank and side covers all back down and started again.  I will say the paint is no joke.  It's POR 15 hardnose paint and didn't come off nearly as easy as the cheap rattle can stuff I have used.  I thinned it out and the stuff looks far better than it did.  You wont be mistaking it for a professional job but with some wet sanding and possibly another coat, I think it will look ok.

[fmctm1sw]

I've been struggling with this paint for a while now.  I got a new set of decals courtesy of AFE Graphics.  This is about as good as the brown part is going to get.  From a distance it looks fantastic.  Up close though, you can tell it is a rookie job.  It's very smooth but I couldn't get the paint on evenly.  Maybe I'll try a spray gun next time.  I have all new side cover badges coming and once it warms up, I'll get the black paint on the tank.

[Stev-o]

The paint looks good but will take your word that it looks otherwise up close.  Have you considered shooting clear on it? (If you haven't)

I bought a K5 a few years ago and the tank/side covers came with a poor, rattle-canned paint job.
We block sanded it, shot w/clear and buffed it and it looked fantastic. 

[fmctm1sw]

Stev-o, There's no clear on it yet.  I may do it after I get the decals on it.  I went at it with 1200, 1500, 2000, then 3000 wet sanding.  Then I polished it with Flitz.    It would look amazing if I could get the paint on evenly but at this point I want to get it on the road.  I tried numerous combinations of thinner and paint.  It's good paint too.  The uneven brown paint kind of makes it look like someone chopped a tree down and put it on the bike, maybe I'll just go with that's the look I was trying for...   

[Stev-o]

Stev-o, There's no clear on it yet.  I may do it after I get the decals on it.  I went at it with 1200, 1500, 2000, then 3000 wet sanding.  Then I polished it with Flitz.    It would look amazing if I could get the paint on evenly but at this point I want to get it on the road.  I tried numerous combinations of thinner and paint.  It's good paint too.  The uneven brown paint kind of makes it look like someone chopped a tree down and put it on the bike, maybe I'll just go with that's the look I was trying for...   

HA!   You can always clear later....

[fmctm1sw]

Here's the painted black portion.  I'll wet sand it later this week and by that time my side cover emblems should be here....

[fmctm1sw]

I was super excited today when I saw my package from Partzilla.  When I opened it, I was slightly disappointed.  I researched and made sure I got the year proper emblems including the orange wing emblem.  I ended up with red ones and I'm sure I ordered the right ones.  The red ones look cool anyway and it's not like the tank is stock color either (but I did choose brown since Candy Garnet Brown was a legit color for that year).  I may stick with them, I don't know...

Well, I got just what I ordered.  The part number I pulled from motogrid matches the part numbers for the part number on the packages I got.  I guess motogrid lists the red emblems for the K3....

[fmctm1sw]

I could see the finish line...  Got the side covers and tank on it, filled it with gas and kicked it over.  Then kicked again.  and again, and again...     Then a loud backfire.  I looked at the timing and it was a little late; nothing I figured would make it not start but lo and behold I lined it up perfectly and it started up.  I adjusted the cam chain and synced the carbs again.  Ran nice and strong to the end of the block.  I made a few more trips and shut it off.  When I hit the starter button, it was almost dead.  It was at 10.5 volts and when I revved it up, it got to about 11.5.  I had no continuity between one of the yellow leads from the stator.  It was good up to the first connector from the stator but it never gets to the rectifier.  I have a new connector on the way, so we;ll see what that does...

[fmctm1sw]

The vintage connections crimper and associated terminals: one of my wiser purchases.  Half the connector is done but the other half is right up against the frame and I don't want to remove the airbox.  I got 3 of the 7 on...