Topic: old style petcock questions

[mrbreeze]

I am not new to these bikes but I am new to the older petcocks (74 & earlier). I just bought a beautiful new tank from a member here and I have been having trouble with the 2 old style petcocks I have. I checked the search and heard a few good tips but just wanted to know for sure. I can get the rubber parts from Service Honda cheap but do these parts usually fix a leaky petcock or would I be wasting my time & money? Should I spend more and just buy a new one and be done with it? Some have said you don't get the mounting screws & washers when you buy a new one. I'm pretty sure that these washers are critical to keep it leak free. Also....some people mention the round rubber seal with the 4 holes is what causes the leak.  I would be thankful for any info on this problem. The gas isn't hitting the ground with the valve off but I'm getting fumes in the garage that probably won't jive with the water heater!!!! Thanks in advance.

[CycleRanger]

You should take the petcock apart and see if/how badly the metal is corroded.
If the metal is in good shape then new gaskets and a screen should fix it up.
The screws may be phillips and may be tough to remove or they may be hex and slightly less difficult.
You can make gaskets for the screws or you can also use o-rings.

If the petcock is badly corroded then you probably should go for a new one.

[wrenchmuch]

My k1 petcock functions well but I have fumes in the garage too . Hot weather + old tech tank vent = fumes . Does it leak when off with the fuel lines removed ?

[mrbreeze]

Yeah...mine drips out of 1 hose with it off of the bike and turned off. I took it apart and the metal looks OK. I guess I'll just roll the dice and buy the seals. Service Honda lists the 2 washers that go on the screws as #25 and they go for$3.10 each. The oblong o ring that seals the petcock to the tank is # 13 and goes for $3.76. The internal round rubber seal is # 8 and goes for $2.78. It won't break the bank so I'll go ahead and order. I just thought someone might know more about what part leaks and a trick to repair. I've blown through all of the passages and everything seems clear. My left mount 75' valve never leaked so I'm not used to this problem.

[CycleRanger]

You need to get one of these:  http://www.harborfreight.com/397-piece-metric-o-ring-assortment-67580.html

I hate paying $3 for a single o-ring!

[mrbreeze]

I know what you mean about the price but I'd rather pay a bit more and have it work the first time than screw around filling & dumping gas and taking the petcock off and apart over and over. My time is more valuable than a few bucks saved. Being an auto technician.......... you learn to use the part that the job calls for and be done with it and on to the next thing.

[CycleRanger]

I don't disagree with you, I prefer to use the exact correct parts myself but it's still handy to keep a few o-rings around.

[mrbreeze]

I don't disagree with you, I prefer to use the exact correct parts myself but it's still handy to keep a few o-rings around.

I know............I have a small drawer full of them in my tool box. I can tell you though.........lot of times the o ring I picked didn't work even though it looked the same as the old one. Then you have to screw around till you find the right one. I remember changing out an oil pump drive seal on an older 3.1 Chevy engine. It's 3 hour labor to remove plentum to gain access. My parts guy gave me a seal that is simular to the OEM o ring but was black instead of orange. Not even a month later....it was back leaking oil on the ground. Comebacks suck and luckily my boss paid me to do the job over being that they gave me a different o ring than what it called for. It's just the way I am..............I'll wait an extra day to get the right part than roll the dice and see if I can get away with doing it the quick way.