Author Topic: Carbs rebuilt, now won't stay idling (Read 6863 times)

Duke McDukiedook · « **Reply #25 on:** July 29, 2011, 12:42:23 PM »

If your air filter and exhaust setup are stock your air/fuel mixture screws should be set to the factory position.

They affect idle and probably to 1/8th throttle position.

Tews19 · « **Reply #26 on:** July 29, 2011, 01:22:31 PM »

Thanks IDS for all your knowledge sharing. I'm going to keep her for the weekend and bring her back to the shop when I have someone to follow me if they have to keep the bike. Plus the old lady is working this weekend and no babysitter. I will difinately be asking you for more advice once I get the carb kit from z1 for my 550f next week. I just steers her up an she started up and stayed running around 1200 Rpms. I made an error before as she was idling around 750-1k when I picked her up.

Duke McDukiedook · « **Reply #27 on:** July 29, 2011, 02:01:40 PM »

Don't trust the tach on your bike for an accurate measurement, they are usually off by a few hundred RPM I have found.

Cables should be directed in diameter bends no smaller than a tennis ball for good measure to make sure they do not kink on you. You could throw some cable lube in there if they are routed OK and are just corroded and hanging up- or you may have to buy some new throttle cables- iI would buy Honda OEM if I were replacing them.

Tews19 · « **Reply #28 on:** July 29, 2011, 02:06:54 PM »

I was thinking of buying new cables. But I do have superbike bars that I want to put on. Do you think oem cables will work or modified cables?

Duke McDukiedook · « **Reply #29 on:** July 29, 2011, 02:18:46 PM »

Superbike bars are not that much lower than the stockers, as long as your cable routes have bends that are not smaller than the diameter of a tennis ball you should be OK.

Tews19 · « **Reply #30 on:** July 30, 2011, 07:36:13 PM »

Such a sad day... I drove around 20 minutes, waited til she was nice and warm and adjusted the idle screw... It did not seem to help... Drove roughly 120 miles since I got her back and she will either have a hanging idle anywhere from 3-4k or completely putter out.... Let me be frank... This bike drives so great on the highway , even with the carbs out of whack it is sad to have dropped her off again at the shop... The mechanic tried to fix her on the spot but the owner came out and apologized to me personally. Then said he wants to do the job correctly and that by adjusting her outside is a temporary fix and he did not want that...

The good news.............. Thanks to all of you who have educated me and guided me in the right direction.. While the owner was talking to me I mentioned the 3k miles tune up.. he did say that should happen. I brought up the cam tensioner, valve adjustment and points.... They did the points already and they will be DOING everything now!!!! Free of charge.... I asked him how much it would cost to do it and I told him how funds are scarce due to one of our vehicles being broken into a week and a half ago... Thats when he said do not worry about it... Honestly, I was kind of at a loss for words.. I understand I paid my left leg for the service, I am just glad they are openly fixing it and not seeming like I am being a pain in the ass... SO to all those who have helped me I would like to thank you....

THanks!!!!!!

Nortstudio · « **Reply #31 on:** July 30, 2011, 07:59:34 PM »

That sounds like a good ending to your experience with the shop (I dont want to jinx it!). Glad to hear that he took responsibility. Next up, you learn to do it yourself, and hopefully having the bike in good solid running condition will show you what you are striving for when you do it on your own.

Good luck.

Tews19 · « **Reply #32 on:** July 30, 2011, 08:16:23 PM »

Quote from: Nortstudio on July 30, 2011, 07:59:34 PM

That sounds like a good ending to your experience with the shop (I dont want to jinx it!). Glad to hear that he took responsibility. Next up, you learn to do it yourself, and hopefully having the bike in good solid running condition will show you what you are striving for when you do it on your own.

Good luck.

Oh for sure... Thats why I ordered the carb rebuild kit for my 550F. I should have it Tuesday or Wednesday... With the F I am going to do it all.. The shop owner was evening telling me how simple it was to do the maintenance myself and began to show me then stopped himself.. Thats when he brought it up that they will do it and not to worry... A truly classful move in my opinion... It feels good to know people are out there not to make a buck off of someone... Might be why I am in the social service field or served in the military... Not sure but a good way to end the day......

Duke McDukiedook · « **Reply #33 on:** July 30, 2011, 09:01:06 PM »

Cool, one thing you might want to check with a hanging idle is a possible vacuum leak in the intake insulators (the rubbers between the carburetor and the engine). These get old and crusty with age and need replacing every now and then, you might want to look into replacing these while the carbs are off the bike.

Stev-o · « **Reply #34 on:** July 31, 2011, 06:07:22 AM »

Sounds promising, glad to hear he is standing behind his work.

Tews19 · « **Reply #35 on:** July 31, 2011, 06:44:42 AM »

Quote from: Industrial-sized Dukiedook on July 30, 2011, 09:01:06 PM

Cool, one thing you might want to check with a hanging idle is a possible vacuum leak in the intake insulators (the rubbers between the carburetor and the engine). These get old and crusty with age and need replacing every now and then, you might want to look into replacing these while the carbs are off the bike.

I was thinking that but the rubbers are like new. I am not exaggerating when I say this bike is very clean and solid. But maybe I should.

Tews19 · « **Reply #36 on:** August 02, 2011, 12:59:52 PM »

The shop contacted me and stated the float bowls were full of loose rust. He stated the tank was filthy thus being the cause of the poor idle.... They flushed the tank out twice and recommended keeping her for a few more days to clean out the tank.. 4-5 days to be precise.. They placed a brass filter in the tank to see if this would help and the bowls continued to have rust.. He did state he was shocked because the tank is is rust free from what he can see but the way these tanks were built where the top of the tank is welded to the bottom is a common place for the rust to start.... He suggested they keep it or they can try a paper filter... I went with the paper filter.....I mentioned I would look into buying a new tank until he said I would never find a tank in the shape I have already...Hopefully she test out fine today on the shops test drive and I can pick her up... Rockerbox is approaching and I need her back...

Duke McDukiedook · « **Reply #37 on:** August 02, 2011, 01:43:16 PM »

Clean the tank, etch it and then redkote it then wait a couple of days to let it set before adding petrol to it.
Forget about using inline filters when you know you have a clean tank, all they do is restrict fuel flow.

Nortstudio · « **Reply #38 on:** August 02, 2011, 01:44:35 PM »

I just had some real good luck with The Works for cleaning the tank. Have to be careful not to ruin your paint, but it got the rust out. Pretty amazing seeing high school chemistry class at work

Took 1.5 hours total, with te rinse process afterwards.

Good luck. Seems like this guy is ON it!

Tews19 · « **Reply #39 on:** August 02, 2011, 01:47:46 PM »

IDS what is etch?

Nort, the works toilet bowl cleaner? Can you explain? Dump in what part cleaner what part water? The let sit for how Kim and them you say rinse 1.5 hrs continuously after? Then I should be good to go?

Duke McDukiedook · « **Reply #40 on:** August 02, 2011, 01:55:08 PM »

There are various methods to get the rust out of tanks, etching is usually done with muratic acid.
You can do electrolysis, and I am sure various other methods. Searching will help you out on these methods.

On mine I took it to a radiator shop that etched it with acid and then they redkoted it for a little over $100US.

Stev-o · « **Reply #41 on:** August 02, 2011, 05:35:04 PM »

"The Works" is toilet bowl cleaner available at WalMart.
I'm w/dukie, I would consider having it done by a pro, heard too many horror stories [coating "melts" down into carbs!]

Spanner 1 · « **Reply #42 on:** August 02, 2011, 05:58:06 PM »

+ 100 for 'The Works' de-rust method........ dry it out good, put gas in it and use the fab. 'magnet' on-on-a- coathanger.'.. rust catcher method over several days ?? What ?

Zip tie a Home Depot $2 bar magnet to the curled-back end of a piece of coathanger and 'fish' it into the tank beside the petcock intake. Make a loop at the gas cap so as the coathanger end sits just under the gas cap ( for easy removal ). Leave it in the tank. Take it out every day and wipe off the collected rusticles. Do it for a week ( riding or not )..... when riding the rust that would otherwise get sucked-down the petcock to the carbs will 'stick' to the magnet

... it works , a few 500 mile rides with a rusty tank proves it for me !! Mine's still in there a year later, very little rust ever on it now.

Tews19 · « **Reply #43 on:** August 02, 2011, 06:01:28 PM »

Quote from: Industrial-sized Dukiedook on August 02, 2011, 01:43:16 PM

Clean the tank, etch it and then redkote it then wait a couple of days to let it set before adding petrol to it.
Forget about using inline filters when you know you have a clean tank, all they do is restrict fuel flow.

I found out that radiator repair shops usually can do tanks and the one used in my area charges 80 bucks but he said it takes roughly 10 days to do it properly.. That and he added the paint on the tank will most likely have to be redone.. What do you all think... 80 bucks to make it look like new inside only would have to get it painted..

Spanner 1 · « **Reply #44 on:** August 02, 2011, 06:31:54 PM »

It's the original tank and original 'patina' paint.. right ??..... no way, 'rustkote' it... those dudes don't give a damn in a radiator shop.... DIY, DIY, DIY............ with rust remover, rant over

Tews19 · « **Reply #45 on:** August 02, 2011, 06:45:45 PM »

Quote from: Spanner 1 on August 02, 2011, 06:31:54 PM

It's the original tank and original 'patina' paint.. right ??..... no way, 'rustkote' it... those dudes don't give a damn in a radiator shop.... DIY, DIY, DIY............ with rust remover, rant over

Rustoke?

Spanner 1 · « **Reply #46 on:** August 02, 2011, 07:22:38 PM »

All I'm saying is don't give your tank to a radiator shop ( or anyone ! ), de-rust it yourself and keep the original paint.

Tews19 · « **Reply #47 on:** August 02, 2011, 08:48:37 PM »

K, thanks

Tews19 · « **Reply #48 on:** August 03, 2011, 02:53:14 PM »

I got her back and it is great... The shop ended up putting on an additional fuel fitler that is used for cars... They wanted to clean the tank but I am sick of not having a bike to drive. He did state that this may or may not fix the problem.... he did his test drive and it worked for now.. Hopefully it will get me through the season... He did mention to me not to go through any radiator place because they will most likely wreck my paint.....FOR NOW , LET THE FUN BEGIN>>>>>>>>>>ROCKERBOX HERE I COME

cb550inct · « **Reply #49 on:** August 03, 2011, 03:41:43 PM »

Just clean the rust out of the filter every week or so it could work for the rest of the riding season.... does that end in like a week in wisconsin

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Author Topic: Carbs rebuilt, now won't stay idling (Read 6863 times)