Thanks to Z1 enterprises, I will be receiving my carb rebuild kit for the 75' 550F. I probably could have waited until I got her taken apart and then decided which parts need replacement. But i figure this is my first project I want to use new parts and have less possible issues due to my error when it comes to cleaning......
I will warn you that new parts are only good if they are the same dimensions as your old cleaned parts inside.
The old parts were known to work when new and clean. What makes you think they won't work if they are cleaned?
The new parts add a new variable into the carb set up. Are they the same design an made to the same dimensions as the old part? If not, they may never run well and you will not be able to differentiate between a poor cleaning or new part that aren't made to the correct specifications.
There have been quite a few threads on this forum where the rebuild wasn't successful until the old carb parts were cleaned and reinstalled into the carbs before it ran well.
Now when it comes to dismantling I will be taking PLENTY of pics.... The service manual states I should take apart each carb individually..
1-Should I do this?
What service manual?
I only take them apart as far as they need to get what is dirty, clean. All the bits that got fouled by stale/stagnant gas can be cleaned with them still assembled into a rack, with the exception of the fuel logs/pathways that go between carbs. You can judge how bad the logs are by observing the extent and type of deposits in fuel bowls. Were the carbs stored full and allowed to dry out completely? Was there water in the gas/carbs that caused corrosion?
If we don't get a decent picture/description about the state of your particular carbs, how can you expect to get relevant advise as to your best approach?[/quote]
2-Searching through the threads, I have found lots of people like Simple green to soak... Should I pick this up or is there a proven chemical that works better?
Carb cleaner works better.
3-How long should I soak the carbs in the simple green?
Only long enough to attack and dissolve the deposits in the carbs, without it attacking the base metal of the carbs.
This is why carb cleaner is better than Simple green for this task. Carb cleaner attack the fuel residue/deposit without attacking the base metal of the carb bodies.
Simple green is slightly acidic (as is vinegar). Rinse carb bodies in simple green for a year and they will likely dissolve entirely.
You can store carb bodies in carb cleaner for a year and it won't have damage from the carb cleaner, as that chemical was purpose built for the task.
Simple green is a general purpose cleaner. Yes, you can use it clean carbs. But ,it requires some skill to use it without damage.
We can't tell you how long to soak them in this stuff, because we don't know how bad the deposits are, if there is corrosion, or how much bare carb metal is going to be exposed to the cleaner at the beginning of the job.
For example, you could use a chisel to bang off all the deposits. It will likely mark the base metal as well, but, it will be still be clean.
After the Simple green has dissolved/ converted the fuel residue, it will then begin to dissolve/convert the base metal of the carbs. How long this takes to occur, depends entirely on deposit quantity, and exposure time.
If you absolutely MUST use Simple green, use it only as long as it takes to make it clean and then neutralize the it.
3-Now when I do dismantle, I should place each carb in an individual container....
There has only been one SOHC4 carb bank that I had to break apart to clean (corrosion). I do keep all the parts for a carb associated with that carb, regardless of cleaning method. Never swap parts among carbs.
With the carbs off the bike, removal of the bowls get you access to 85% of the fuel deposit residue. If you can press out the main emulsion tube, you just got the next 10%. The last 5% is in the pilot circuit behind the pilot jet. For your carbs in particular, aerosol carb spray will clean that circuit (unless you have found corrosion) with the carbs still assembled into a bank.
We don't know the extent of your carb's outside appearance. Unless you soda blast, the outsides may need the bank separated the clean those pristinely.
If you separate the carbs, then you have to worry about adjusting the choke butterflies, and aligning the carbs correctly onto the main stay plate.
To many on here, complete carb disassembly is mandatory to pass a rite of passage/initiation into "mechanic" ranks. This is BS IMO.
If you know how they work beforehand, then you only need to address the critical areas in order to restore proper function. Cleaning everything in the hopes that it will cover the critical areas, is just wasted effort. Depends on your goal; A running bike, or time spent "in the hobby" diverting your brain from many other things in life.
Anyway, cleaning the "right things" in your carbs will save you from cleaning the entire carb bank 3 or 4 times before finally getting that "right thing" cleaned properly.
Learn where the fuel routes and sits with in the carbs. Clean those areas until only clean fuel gets there, and you will have usable, operating carbs.
Cheers,
