Author Topic: Calendar Girl Gets New Engine,Yosh,RC,etc. (Read 200194 times)

dragracer · « **Reply #2250 on:** December 11, 2015, 12:09:47 PM »

My pump stopped working years ago and I see no reason, performance wise, to install the new diaphragm kit. The proof is in the time slip.

Bill/BentON Racing · « **Reply #2251 on:** December 11, 2015, 03:31:26 PM »

I hear you. My pump is working. ...I checked, it never bogged the whole weekend. But that was a really trick Stage IV. The one on it now is a Stage III, might need adjusting , we'll see. Been so busy with other work, I hope to degree cam tonight. Be interesting at dyno to make a run or two with and w/out, hell the reason they were first put on was to to correct the lean bog when you first nail it. So I think it was a tribute to the head work etc and 327 cam that it performed like it did. Something came in the mail today, pics later!! Bill

Bill/BentON Racing · « **Reply #2252 on:** December 11, 2015, 03:54:32 PM »

POP's see , I heard, new even better DRL300! K. That and this! Sunday fire up.

Bill/BentON Racing · « **Reply #2253 on:** December 11, 2015, 06:32:32 PM »

Why you degree. Last engine TDC mark was dead on. This one is off.

Old Scrambler · « **Reply #2254 on:** December 12, 2015, 07:48:11 AM »

Bill..........the OFF could be attributed to your NEW piston stop...............when the piston is at TDC there is 2-3 degrees or more of crank rotation and chain-slop to measure when the piston is 'stopped' ...............your mark now looks exactly like mine on the C.B.R. Now check your ignition timing (on dyno)..............it may need a few advance degrees

BTW......I removed the pump-pin on my RS-34s

POPS 911 · « **Reply #2255 on:** December 13, 2015, 06:53:52 AM »

BILL: The reason for the BOG off the line on our 1075CC KZ'S was that 34mm carbs pin which while on the 2-step made the motor TOO RICH = BOG. Could your bog could have been from being to RICH and not to lean

read the above posts = no rod, adjusted rod , and FRANK IN THE 10'S BROKE PUMPER.
The problem with a dyno tune for that rod , your on a drum that you can turn by hand and not a sticky starting line that tends to bog your motor down in the first place, with a super sticky track and too fat fuel off the line =bog.
GEORGE BRICE said to us MSP : On your PRO-STOCK bike you want just a little bog off the line to stop the lock up from spinning rear wheel [ you going up in smoke ] if you spin on the hit the lock up keeps the tire spinning. Bill in your case the clutch is in your hand and other than rolling out of the throttle [losing ET ] and with a big bog your dial in is a guess = right

?

Bill/BentON Racing · « **Reply #2256 on:** December 13, 2015, 05:54:36 PM »

POP's believe you be correct. You learn in this game if it didn't work for them....99% of the time it ain't working for you either!!

I still can scare em though! Lol! Guess this pics why they dialed me at 7.11!! Billy

scottly · « **Reply #2257 on:** December 13, 2015, 06:08:12 PM »

Quote from: POPS 911 on December 13, 2015, 06:53:52 AM

The problem with a dyno tune for that rod , your on a drum that you can turn by hand and not a sticky starting line that tends to bog your motor down in the first place, with a super sticky track and too fat fuel off the line =bog.

Try to spin that drum up to 100mph in seven or eight seconds by hand, Pops.

POPS 911 · « **Reply #2258 on:** December 14, 2015, 05:51:19 AM »

My right hand could be wicking up a STROKER BUSA ON THAT DRUM at 6-7 seconds 100mph but would not get you or I a win ticket at the end of 1320' at the ticket booth....
It's ST/ET bracket racing, be in first gear, do-not red light , take a look at mph cone , and womp them at 1319' !!!!!

Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er · « **Reply #2259 on:** December 14, 2015, 11:26:00 AM »

Did it fire yet?

MRieck · « **Reply #2260 on:** December 14, 2015, 11:39:36 AM »

Bill.....I talked about the accelerator pump at Valdosta (or just prior) but got to sick to do anything.

Tintop · « **Reply #2261 on:** December 14, 2015, 01:28:20 PM »

Questioning minds would like to know - if accel pumps are not good for drag bikes, why did RC used Webers??

Bill/BentON Racing · « **Reply #2262 on:** December 14, 2015, 08:36:31 PM »

Yah, me too. I had no problems with it so far...and yes all 4 are working. Mike Rieck. ..call me please sir!

dragracer · « **Reply #2263 on:** December 14, 2015, 08:43:23 PM »

No knowledge of webers but that burst of extra fuel from Mikunis while trying to launch a bike hard will cause it to go rich and bog in most cases. I suppose it depends on how hard you twist the throttle. Riding like grandma pulling off from a stop light in the middle of downtown or riding like you stole it.

scottly · « **Reply #2264 on:** December 14, 2015, 09:03:42 PM »

Frank, are you and Billy running the exact same carbs? (I can't keep up...

)

dragracer · « **Reply #2265 on:** December 14, 2015, 09:09:27 PM »

Quote from: scottly on December 14, 2015, 09:03:42 PM

Frank, are you and Billy running the exact same carbs? (I can't keep up... )

Lol Scottly,

You know i don't make weekly changes. But yes, Bill and I are using Mikuni RS flatslide carbs. I'm running 36mm carbs and he has 34's. I bought mine new when i first built the bike. And yes, i went through the bogging issue til i figured it out.

POPS 911 · « **Reply #2266 on:** December 15, 2015, 05:36:46 AM »

BILL: Did that DYNA DRL300 tell you what type plug wires to use [ DW800 ]

? Call Dave Schnitz and ask him, never seen RED Dyna plug wires must be new on the market.

dragracer · « **Reply #2267 on:** December 15, 2015, 08:35:15 AM »

Quote from: POPS 911 on December 14, 2015, 05:51:19 AM

My right hand could be wicking up a STROKER BUSA ON THAT DRUM at 6-7 seconds 100mph but would not get you or I a win ticket at the end of 1320' at the ticket booth....
It's ST/ET bracket racing, be in first gear, do-not red light , take a look at mph cone , and womp them at 1319' !!!!!

Pops,

I sure hope ya'll don't bracket race that Big Stroker Busa. I can't imagine having to tear into that thing 4-5 times over a season to change out the bearings. Strokers are brutal on the rod bearings. And how many passes did you say you get before freshening it up?? These boys on my end dig deep to keep those big stroker motors reliable and I know MSP ain't cheap up there.

754 · « **Reply #2268 on:** December 15, 2015, 09:24:24 AM »

As long as you play the throttle and clutch together, you should get around any bogging.
If you let the clutch out to soon and it bogs..let it out slower..
I tried to stay in the higher rpms till first gear catches up to the motor..then fully release clutch..ie most of the way through first before releasing clutch..

Bill/BentON Racing · « **Reply #2269 on:** December 15, 2015, 01:43:47 PM »

Yippee Kai Yeah, finally!

dragracer · « **Reply #2270 on:** December 15, 2015, 02:34:32 PM »

Good buy Bill. Buy an offset front sprocket from Kenny and you're on target. Might have to get the rear sprocket adapter milled down some to move the chain inwards towards the wheel to help with chain alignment.

Bill/BentON Racing · « **Reply #2271 on:** December 15, 2015, 03:33:11 PM »

Frank, thanks. Need to talk to Kenny anyway. K, Bill

kmb69 · « **Reply #2272 on:** December 15, 2015, 03:39:25 PM »

Nice wheel, Bill.

gschuld · « **Reply #2273 on:** December 15, 2015, 07:15:51 PM »

I assume you guys are all using 530 chains and sprockets for drag racing? High end 520 chains and sprockets are rated for power levels well beyond what out sohc motors can put out, but not sure about the shock loads of 1.40 60 ft launches. The extra material in the 530 series would be a benefit there I guess.

George

dragracer · « **Reply #2274 on:** December 15, 2015, 07:29:58 PM »

Yes George, we're using 530 chains. EK, Drz2

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Author Topic: Calendar Girl Gets New Engine,Yosh,RC,etc. (Read 200194 times)