Topic: Calendar Girl Gets New Engine,Yosh,RC,etc.

[TurboD]

I have to agree with Frank (again), staying focused on the chassis and technique is the key. Going fast on a no bar street tire bike is many times harder than a slick/bar bike, its all in the 60 foot. I've posted it before, and I don't think some realize, But Franks 1.40 - 1.42 60 foot times on a 100 HP bike are KILLER. No carb or cam change alone will ever provide this, that is all rider. Frank YOU ARE THE MAN...   

George I believe your bored carbs have benefit and will help to improve power. As I have suggested before, you will most likely need to work with the high speed air bleeds to bring the jetting back around into a more normal range. I think that this will also reduce or eliminate the mid range bog, as the signal to the main jet will be stronger.

A couple last thoughts after reading posts on this forum lately. A automatic bike is completely 100% limited by the torque converter, until it can be modified properly quick ET's are not in the cards. We can't expect a bike to basically leave in a "high" second gear and at a low RPM and ET well. Try this with a 5 speed bike. And secondly. While a turbo bike can and will produce more power, obtaining a good 60 foot with one given the street ET rules is complete new ball game. Lol 

[Bill/BentON Racing]

Yep, all about that 60 ft! Automatic best 60 ft is 1.912 I think. Been a while, got to check old time slips to be sure. With the auto all all about holding bike back against the T/C. 2016 will see interesting new bikes and hopefully new records!! K.

[gschuld]

I have to agree with Frank (again), staying focused on the chassis and technique is the key. Going fast on a no bar street tire bike is many times harder than a slick/bar bike, its all in the 60 foot. I've posted it before, and I don't think some realize, But Franks 1.40 - 1.42 60 foot times on a 100 HP bike are KILLER. No carb or cam change alone will ever provide this, that is all rider. Frank YOU ARE THE MAN...   

George I believe your bored carbs have benefit and will help to improve power. As I have suggested before, you will most likely need to work with the high speed air bleeds to bring the jetting back around into a more normal range. I think that this will also reduce or eliminate the mid range bog, as the signal to the main jet will be stronger.

A couple last thoughts after reading posts on this forum lately. A automatic bike is completely 100% limited by the torque converter, until it can be modified properly quick ET's are not in the cards. We can't expect a bike to basically leave in a "high" second gear and at a low RPM and ET well. Try this with a 5 speed bike. And secondly. While a turbo bike can and will produce more power, obtaining a good 60 foot with one given the street ET rules is complete new ball game. Lol 

Yes, I agree.  Frankie has the skills and experience that we can all appreciate. 

I remember your suggestions regarding the high speed jets.  That makes senses.  I was interested in getting as much baseline data as possible before starting to modify them.  I'd like to spend some time on the dyno with my 1005cc motor testing a set of CR31s, then trying the bored carbs with mods and see how the results compare, same engine, same dyno, same day.  Plus hopefully experiment with a few exhaust systems, etc.

I imagine Cobra girl will be resembling Frankie's racer more and more.  It's only logical.  It's hard to argue with success....

George

[dragracer]

I have to agree with Frank (again), staying focused on the chassis and technique is the key. Going fast on a no bar street tire bike is many times harder than a slick/bar bike, its all in the 60 foot. I've posted it before, and I don't think some realize, But Franks 1.40 - 1.42 60 foot times on a 100 HP bike are KILLER. No carb or cam change alone will ever provide this, that is all rider. Frank YOU ARE THE MAN...   

George I believe your bored carbs have benefit and will help to improve power. As I have suggested before, you will most likely need to work with the high speed air bleeds to bring the jetting back around into a more normal range. I think that this will also reduce or eliminate the mid range bog, as the signal to the main jet will be stronger.

A couple last thoughts after reading posts on this forum lately. A automatic bike is completely 100% limited by the torque converter, until it can be modified properly quick ET's are not in the cards. We can't expect a bike to basically leave in a "high" second gear and at a low RPM and ET well. Try this with a 5 speed bike. And secondly. While a turbo bike can and will produce more power, obtaining a good 60 foot with one given the street ET rules is complete new ball game. Lol 

Yes, I agree.  Frankie has the skills and experience that we can all appreciate. 



I imagine Cobra girl will be resembling Frankie's racer more and more.  It's only logical.  It's hard to argue with success....

George

In all fairness to Bill, he's really progressed on turning his bike into a more bonafide drag bike than the way it was set up when he started. The bike looked like a damn road racer. That style just wasn't working for Bill on the dragstrip. I encouraged him to make changes (like pulling teeth) and over the last few years, he's followed my basic formula to get his bike in a more drag racing friendly configuration. He immediately lowered his best ET and felt more comfortable riding the bike even with the worn out engine. I'm personally proud of his progress and will continue to offer as many suggestions as possible to help Bill go quicker. I'm not an expert but I've observed the way other winning combinations are setup and strived to follow that example while tweaking the package to suit my style of riding. No, I don't have access to Bills resources as far as go fast parts or a nice cylinder head package, so I have to make the very best of what's at my disposal. At the end of the day, Bill and I support each other and I'm very grateful for the friendship, mentorship and camaraderie. Hopefully we can encourage some of our fellow SOHC members to get their bikes ready to come race with us next year. Wilbur had a great time and showed that even a stock bike can make rounds. Larry came up with intentions to race but a family event pulled him away. If any of you are sitting on the fence about participating in a drag race, at least make a commitment to make at least race, either as a spectator or as a participant. Old Honda's never die, the just get modified for drag racing. !!!!

[Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er]

Bill, I've seen multiple 1.42, sixty foot runs this season but did have a few 1.40 passes. The clutches are likely burned a good bit so I'll be on the hunt for that special steel plate that's only in the F2  models and unfortunately obsolete from Honda in the States.

Frank, are you talking about the double plate?

[dragracer]

Bill, I've seen multiple 1.42, sixty foot runs this season but did have a few 1.40 passes. The clutches are likely burned a good bit so I'll be on the hunt for that special steel plate that's only in the F2  models and unfortunately obsolete from Honda in the States.

Frank, are you talking about the double plate?

Bill, I've seen multiple 1.42, sixty foot runs this season but did have a few 1.40 passes. The clutches are likely burned a good bit so I'll be on the hunt for that special steel plate that's only in the F2  models and unfortunately obsolete from Honda in the States.

Yes Jerry, the double plate is no longer available through Honda. Do you know of another source for a new plate?? I've no intentions of converting my clutch pack to any other configuration as it works perfectly for me.

Frank, are you talking about the double plate?

[scottly]

Frank, the double plate was also used on K7-K8 clutches, and may have been used on some Goldwings. The clutch basket is deeper to accommodate the double plate. I have a K7 plate with less than 6000 miles on it that I didn't use on my recent rebuild of my K1 clutch.

[Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er]

75 - 79 GL's.

+1 on the longer basket in stock configuration or use the Honda field upgrade for older baskets.

[Bill/BentON Racing]

Mike, cheer up look, #4, now if 1,2,and 3 check the same we good. Thinking of you man.

[Bill/BentON Racing]

 

[bear]

"Yes Jerry, the double plate is no longer available through Honda. Do you know of another source for a new plate?? I've no intentions of converting my clutch pack to any other configuration as it works perfectly for me."

Frank can you tell why you use that buffer plate.
I've always chucked them over my left shoulder and used an extra flat steel and a fiber on the chair.

Cheers,
Brian

[Bill/BentON Racing]

Frank,  it hooked, but didn't everything this weekend? More broken chains than any other event so far!

[dragracer]

"Yes Jerry, the double plate is no longer available through Honda. Do you know of another source for a new plate?? I've no intentions of converting my clutch pack to any other configuration as it works perfectly for me."

Frank can you tell why you use that buffer plate.
I've always chucked them over my left shoulder and used an extra flat steel and a fiber on the chair.

Cheers,
Brian

Bear, keep in mind that i'm drag racing. Being able to control the launch with consistency is very important when slipping the clutch with the throttle locked. I seem to have better clutch feel and the pack lasts longer. I've tried the extra clutch plate set up and it simply didn't work for me. I went through 2 clutch packs that season. 

[kmb69]

Mike, cheer up look, #4, now if 1,2,and 3 check the same we good. Thinking of you man.

Got the pics mixed up, but I told Mike on Friday, that motor is not right. Just did not sound good to me. That thing should have been "popping" and it was FLAT!   

Get it fixed! There's some solid low 10's out there when it's right.   

[bear]

"Yes Jerry, the double plate is no longer available through Honda. Do you know of another source for a new plate?? I've no intentions of converting my clutch pack to any other configuration as it works perfectly for me."

Frank can you tell why you use that buffer plate.
I've always chucked them over my left shoulder and used an extra flat steel and a fiber on the chair.

Cheers,
Brian

Bear, keep in mind that i'm drag racing. Being able to control the launch with consistency is very important when slipping the clutch with the throttle locked. I seem to have better clutch feel and the pack lasts longer. I've tried the extra clutch plate set up and it simply didn't work for me. I went through 2 clutch packs that season. 

I've been known to go through two sets at a meeting.
Piston photo's are attached, couldn't attach in my PM.

Cheers,
Brian

[kmb69]

"Yes Jerry, the double plate is no longer available through Honda. Do you know of another source for a new plate?? I've no intentions of converting my clutch pack to any other configuration as it works perfectly for me."

Frank can you tell why you use that buffer plate.
I've always chucked them over my left shoulder and used an extra flat steel and a fiber on the chair.

Cheers,
Brian

Bear, keep in mind that i'm drag racing. Being able to control the launch with consistency is very important when slipping the clutch with the throttle locked. I seem to have better clutch feel and the pack lasts longer. I've tried the extra clutch plate set up and it simply didn't work for me. I went through 2 clutch packs that season. 

That double plate is suppose to help absorb shock and reduce clutch chatter. Probably does help you control slipping off the line.

Bear's application is different as they can use the extra square inches of clutch plate with all the weight. (Not insinuating that you boys are fatties!)   

[Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er]

Depends on how the clutch pack is set up and in which basket.

I installed a complete 78 clutch pack and basket in my new engine with it's double plate. Smooth and quiet but it also has undercut dogs and new Honda discs. I will mix and match the early basket with the double plate and one less disc as in the field fix when I finish up the 1000. That has to be, at the least, quieter than before with the stock 75 setup. 

[dragracer]

Thanks for the pictures. The piston on the left came from what engine??

"Yes Jerry, the double plate is no longer available through Honda. Do you know of another source for a new plate?? I've no intentions of converting my clutch pack to any other configuration as it works perfectly for me."

Frank can you tell why you use that buffer plate.
I've always chucked them over my left shoulder and used an extra flat steel and a fiber on the chair.

Cheers,
Brian

Bear, keep in mind that i'm drag racing. Being able to control the launch with consistency is very important when slipping the clutch with the throttle locked. I seem to have better clutch feel and the pack lasts longer. I've tried the extra clutch plate set up and it simply didn't work for me. I went through 2 clutch packs that season. 

I've been known to go through two sets at a meeting.
Piston photo's are attached, couldn't attach in my PM.

Cheers,
Brian

[bear]

Thanks for the pictures. The piston on the left came from what engine??

(sorry for hi-jack Billy)

It's for an RC40, details in my PM.
I think Billy might have a set.

Cheers,
Brian

[bear]

Bear's application is different as they can use the extra square inches of clutch plate with all the weight. (Not insinuating that you boys are fatties!)   
[/quote]

No offense taken Keith. There's no denying it I am a little chubby.

Cheers,
Brian

[Bill/BentON Racing]

I've got the large .050 XL250 with 17 mm pin. Keith, you want a pic? Bill

[bear]

I think thats the one on the right......Bill?

[Bill/BentON Racing]

Looks like it, I'll dig it out and we'll compare,  Bill

[johno]

ooooooooooh Beear,   stainless benchs 
your talkin my language mate   

[bear]

ooooooooooh Beear,   stainless benchs 
your talkin my language mate   

Life's good mate.

Cheers,
Brian