Topic: How do I clean an original chain? Gas? Kerosine?

[workrider]

Hi. I have what I believe is an original chain off a CB550. It needs to be cleaned up. The sprockts look good and the bike only has 15k on it, so I just need a cleaning and lube. What kind of lube should I use if this is the original chain? My brother has the dry stuff, that's kinda whiteish grey.

Feel free to call me, or post, or PM.

Thank you!

Matthew

[KingCustomCycles.com]

I use lacquer thinner or mineral spirits to clean with a wire brush and then spray on, wax based chain lube.  The older models had chain oilers that used engine oil right out of the tranny so that would work too.

[TwoTired]

Mineral spirits or Stoddard Solvent for cleaning.  (I try to avoid breathing Lacquer thinner fumes whenever possible.)
Blow dry or let dry overnight.
I like PJ1 chain lube.  Has a tough film suspended in a light solvent.  Kinda Foams on and penetrates the rollers and links, then the solvent carrier evaporates overnite, to minimize fly off.  If you get fly off, a little mineral spirits will do well for cleaning that, too.

I don't care for dry lubes on non-oring chains.  I just don't believe they lubricate well.  They will keep rust at bay, though, and minimize fly off.  I speculate the "clean" issue dominates its choice for many.

Anyway, with the PJ1 (Black) used regularly, you don't need repeated separate cleanings of the chain, in my experience.

Cheers,

[bollingball]

Depending on how rusty it is maybe get a new one
What is on the inside of those rollers?

[workrider]

What do you mean by, "inside of rollers?"

[bollingball]

OK what I call the rollers is the part that fits between the teeth on the sprocket inside the roller is a pin that the roller rolls on there could be a lot of crude in there if the chain has been in the rain for years just saying? I would have to see it to make a call. Chains don't cost much until they fail.
What year is the chain?? or bike

[MCRider]

OK what I call the rollers is the part that fits between the teeth on the sprocket inside the roller is a pin that the roller rolls on there could be a lot of crude in there if the chain has been in the rain for years just saying? I would have to see it to make a call. Chains don't cost much until they fail.
What year is the chain?? or bike

It and a burlap bag would make a good boat anchor.

Sure its usable I suppose, in a pinch, and I wouldn't be above it myself. 

But don't fool yourself about what you have. 15K on an original chain is not low mileage, and bolling is right there is hidden damage in the rollers from years of condensation cycles.

Its not the mileage that kills these bikes now. Its the years.

[fmctm1sw]

What do you mean by, "inside of rollers?"

Check out my "chain damage" thread if you want to see damaged rollers...  http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=91939.msg1026379#msg1026379

[Tanqueracer]

I soaked the original 9k mile chain off my 1975 CB750 F1SS in a couple of pints of Marvel Mystery oil for several days while I was working on other parts of the bike. When I was ready for the chain I ran it through the parts washer (Safety Clean) with a soft bristle brush to clean out each and every roller. Then I hung it up to drip dry for 24 hours. After it was dry I used modern Honda Chain Lube in a spray can and coated the rollers and the sprockets before assembly. BTW the sprockets were cleaned in the same way, except there was no need to drip dry them. .
Seems to have worked. I have 2,500 miles on it so far.

[lone*X]

Ensure the chain is serviceable before trusting it.  They are not that expensive to replace.  That said, I have always used kerosene as a cleaning agent and soak for chains.  Wire brush to clean the crud and work all the links to make sure there are none frozen.  You want the chain to drip dry for quite a while so the kerosene all runs out from the rollers and pins.  Then Lube it well (I like PJ1) making sure there is sufficient lube to penetrate the rollers pretty good.  After the lube sits a while then wipe off the excess on the outside to reduce sling off.  After it is on the bike then regular maintenance is a necessity.  Lube it often and when the chain is warm, like right after a ride so you get good penetration again.

[tomkimberly]

It's your skin however I would never trust an old chain as the replacement cost is real low compared to the risks.

[graeme7]

I used white spirit to clean it, worked well.

I then lubed it by heating it in a pan of motor oil and petroleum jelly (old school, but by the book).

My chain was pretty new (well, 6 years, but only 100 or so miles) but filthy so it was worth clean and re-lube.

Im sure modern lubes are probably better but i used what i had.

I think heating the chain in lube is a good idea thoug. I cleaned the chain thoroughly, got it as spotless a si could, soaked it for ages too, but when in very hot oil you could hear the air 'pop' as it was forced out of the rollers and the amount of extra dirt that came out was a surprise.

I dont think and spray on lube will properly get inside all the rollers.

[Lostboy Steve]

I use lacquer thinner or mineral spirits to clean with a wire brush and then spray on, wax based chain lube.  The older models had chain oilers that used engine oil right out of the tranny so that would work too.

+1 lacquer thinner really is a miracle worker in so many different applications. Buy a new chain. A non roller heavy duty 530 is about $19.95. Then just stay on top of it. A little castrol chain wax or belray super clean from time to time. Oil tends to spray off. Newer lubes work well and stay somewhat on the chain.

[Simpson]

I use lacquer thinner or mineral spirits to clean with a wire brush and then spray on, wax based chain lube.  The older models had chain oilers that used engine oil right out of the tranny so that would work too.

+1 lacquer thinner really is a miracle worker in so many different applications. Buy a new chain. A non roller heavy duty 530 is about $19.95. Then just stay on top of it. A little castrol chain wax or belray super clean from time to time. Oil tends to spray off. Newer lubes work well and stay somewhat on the chain.

23 dollars shipped on ebay. Just bought one and installed.

[Johnie]

I had an old can of Gunk carb cleaner that I would no longer use for carbs. I put the chain in there and let it soak overnight. Did a very good job. Here are before and after pics.

[workrider]

I later took a look at the chain and it looked ok, and so did the sprockets. They showed a little trended, but OK for now. He'll get a chain off ebay if we start having problems or we see excessive wear.
The chain has been in gas for like 2 days now, so we'll see what happens. Tonight i need to put the carbs back together. I'm excited to hear and see it run.
Thanks for the help guys.

[Danno]

Never use a used chain that you don't know the life of and if you ever allowed your chain to rust throw it away and get a new one don't do this it will work for a while but I am not responsible for what will happen get a new one i only do this to old chains of my own when they have lost their grease from riding in the rain or from a long long trip
for DID chain and other cheap aftermarket chains I take them out of the package and I have a crock pot in my shop full of axel grease I believe it is wolfs head synthetic i turn the pot on and coil the chain up and put it in the pot and boil it for about a day in the grease
i take it out hang it above the pot and let it drip off into the pot when it is done dripping and cool I use my terry cloth shop towels and take as much of the excess off as possible then drop it on the sprockets and go the chain lasts a very long time doing this it is the next best thing to having an  o ring chain if the grease is hard to wipe off hang it back over the pot and heat it up with a heat gun or torch and let it drip some more be carefull not to run all the grease back out of the rollers

[Danno]

how do you know your chain is origional if it is there will be a diamond shaped stamp on it

[xsmooth69x]

buy a new one why risk it

[KingCustomCycles.com]

+1 the entire aerospace industry is based upon inspection of condition, service, and return to use.  There are exceptions with some time, or cycle, limited parts that are super critical.  Helicopter gearbox and rotor parts come to mind.  There are those on here that would disassemble a perfectly good running bike engine because they were unsure of its internal condition.  I am not one of them.

[MCRider]

Visually inspecting a tire is a bad example. A perfect looking tire with like new treaddepth and off the shellf sidewalls, is not fit for duty if over 6+ years old. The bonding agents off gas themselves into oblivion and the tire is subject to catastrophic failure upon use.

Just do a Google search on "safe tire age" or such.

If you don't know the age of the tire it would not be wise to use it. Luckily all modern tires from 20 years or so, have age codes on them. If it doesn't have an age code, don't use it.

[crazypj]

If your trying to 'restore' an old chain, bite the bullet and change it all out (chain and sprockets)
Best thing I've found to clean any driver chain, light oil
 Any type of 'soap' will get in places you don't want it (and won't come out again)
 Removing chain for cleaning is best thing to do, I have 'soaked' chains in diesel fuel, loosens off all old grease.
(you really need to 'cook' them in chain lube afterwards)
 If you just want 'outside' clean, get some nitril gloves and some diesel fuel
 

[Duanob]

Chains don't cost much until they fail.

Words of wisdom