Topic: Confusing manual for timing strobe...

[migopod]

I just picked up a timing strobe from sears, and it's a little odd in the instruction department.
It's an inductive pickup type, and it states in the manual that you connect the red alligator clip
to the (-) battery terminal, and connect the black clip to the frame. 
The odd bit is that the (-) battery terminal does connect to the frame, and my physics class from
a few years ago suggested that in order to get any kind of current flowing, you have to have a
voltage differential between each end of the circuit...  This seems like it could be achieved by disconnecting
the negative terminal from the negative lead and putting the strobe in-line with the battery, but it didn't
suggest doing this. just hooking it right up to the terminal and frame.

Did they typo the battery terminal polarity, or should I put it inline between the battery and frame?

hooray for ambiguous documentation!

[Einyodeler]

Every timing light I`ve ever seen the red goes to + and the black to ground.

[migopod]

That WOULD make the most sense...
i'll try it that way and see if i get the flicker.

Thanks!

[Raul CB750K1]

If it is the inductive type, you need to connect it to positive and chassis to power it up. Then you'll probably need to place the inductive clamp around any of the high tension leads going to the spark plugs. The sensor will detect the high voltage and will make the xenon bulb to light.

The passive inductive light are connected in series between the spark plug and the ht lead, because they are simply a strobe light powered by the high voltage, that makes the spark weaker and the light is not very powerful. Inductive type are much better.


Raul

[migopod]

just so long as nothing needs to be attached to a ball.

[frostypuck]

When they write the manual, they don't know what kind of car/ bike you're planning on using it on. Many newer cars discourage you from connecting anything to both terminals of the battery, as an errant spark may fry the car's brain. So in order to cover the lowest common denominator of wrenchers, they suggest connecting to the positive terminal and a bit of metal on the engine.
Also, that's the reason they suggest disconnecting the negative battery terminal first when changing the battery. If the battery isn't grounded to the vehicle, you can't cause a spark by inadvertantly touching a wrench to the (+) terminal and the fender.
Chris in Boston

[Robert]

...for best results place the inductive clamp as near as possible to the spark plug connector.
Often the clamp has a "spark plug side", so you may want to give attention to that too.

[Clyde]

I have an inductive unit and it is as per your instructions. The battery provides power to the inductive unit and and fires the xenon bulb. It is better to use another battery rather than the one in the bike, as you can sometimes get a false pulse from electrical interference from the motor.
The inductive clamps are sometimes directional. Look for an arrow or marking on the inductive unit.

[Raul CB750K1]

just so long as nothing needs to be attached to a ball.

Even with a plug attached to a ball I still can understand instruction manuals... 

[057 adnoh]

hook the strobe up to you car battery , then put the inductive clamp on the bikes plug wire  if you get an erratic flashing from the strobe turn the iniductive clamp upside down on the plug wire . make sure you dont drape the strobe wire over the exhaust pipe ( let my lesson be yours!!!) good luck !!!

[eldar]

That is the hard part with the plug wires between the exhaust. you almost need to tie the wires away from the pipes or use 3 hands.

[migopod]

I just wound up hooking red to + and black to frame (which i think the manual probably would have suggested.)  Maybe the
author had difficulty seeing vertical lines and was black/red color blind.  It worked very well indeed, and looping the wires
around the marker lights kept them from melting to the exhaust.

Thanks for the help