Author Topic: Carbs rebuilt, now won't stay idling (Read 6874 times)

Duke McDukiedook · « **Reply #50 on:** August 03, 2011, 05:18:27 PM »

Clean the tank and you might as well line it while you are at it, a fuel filter is nothing but a band aid and it will get worse until you clean it.

Tews19 · « **Reply #51 on:** August 03, 2011, 08:55:40 PM »

Quote from: Industrial-sized Dukiedook on August 03, 2011, 05:18:27 PM

Clean the tank and you might as well line it while you are at it, a fuel filter is nothing but a band aid and it will get worse until you clean it.

Ya I know, I didnt want to do a half ass job on it but I wanted her back.. I plan to do the tank once the season is over with.

Tews19 · « **Reply #52 on:** August 08, 2011, 08:21:52 PM »

I am not sure if this would cause poor idling but I received 10 7 amp fuses and 10 15 amp fuses in the mail today. I decided I should swap out and put all new ones in both 550's... Well for some reason, my K which has been idling somewhat poorly had a 5 amp, a 30 amp and a 15.... I changed them out fired her up and she is idling right at 1100.. I will be taking her for a ride tomorrow to see if the idles stays. Could this be a cause to the poor idle?

Nortstudio · « **Reply #53 on:** August 08, 2011, 08:33:18 PM »

That should not effect idle. Either the fuse is passing juice or it's not (blown). Definitely good to have the correct fuses in there though.

Danno · « **Reply #54 on:** August 08, 2011, 08:52:05 PM »

I would have rebuilt your carbs for 150.00 plus parts and I don't usually need many of them and Mark (hondaman) does it for 200 if i remember right 475 is bunk for just that they owe you a tune up at least
a real one

Randy · « **Reply #55 on:** August 13, 2011, 02:17:37 PM »

My problem was the spark plug wires.. they were in the holders , but not screwed in all the way.. the spark would jump the cap in the wire but not a idle... So theres my two cents..

mrbreeze · « **Reply #56 on:** August 13, 2011, 03:00:42 PM »

Another thing not mentioned about the hanging idle and dying when it does idle......Were the carbs synched? My 750 acted just like that years ago before I got my Morgan Carbtune. You may even wanna ask that shop owner if it was done on the first go around (I'm thinking not). I did mine like 5 years ago and haven't had any reason to go back and do it again. The carb synch is the last step in a proper tune-up. Also.....make sure and get that tank cleaned up ASAP!! It doesn't take much rust particles to get into your carbies and screw up all the work done on rebuilding them.

Tews19 · « **Reply #57 on:** August 13, 2011, 03:07:03 PM »

I hear you Breeze... It's weird some days and at times she runs great at idle.. This of course when I fire her up.. But after driving for a while her idle seems to hang... I did change out the fuel filter two days ago.. She was filthy.. I could see the particles in it... I plan to clean the tank out properly once the season is over with.. I read Hondaman will do carbs for 200 only? Does that mean I take them off and mail them to him, he will clean/rebuild them and all I have to do is install and I would be good? I want to learn on this bike but every story i have read with the 78 carbs are absolute horror...

Nortstudio · « **Reply #58 on:** August 13, 2011, 03:17:31 PM »

Hondaman is...well, the man

. But honestly, if your tank is in any way contributing to the issue, by depositing small particles in the carbs, no matter who cleans them, you will need to redo them anyway.

This might be a good time to learn from this bike, because the carbs can be problematic, so you might as well get used to them. Nothing inside there is all that hard to understand (or at least the stuff you MUST deal with).

Once you have done it, the trepidation you felt sorta seems silly. At least it was for me, and especially after taking them off 9 times in 2 weeks

You can do it!

Tews19 · « **Reply #59 on:** August 13, 2011, 03:33:11 PM »

Quote from: Nortstudio on August 13, 2011, 03:17:31 PM

Hondaman is...well, the man . But honestly, if your tank is in any way contributing to the issue, by depositing small particles in the carbs, no matter who cleans them, you will need to redo them anyway.

This might be a good time to learn from this bike, because the carbs can be problematic, so you might as well get used to them. Nothing inside there is all that hard to understand (or at least the stuff you MUST deal with).

Once you have done it, the trepidation you felt sorta seems silly. At least it was for me, and especially after taking them off 9 times in 2 weeks

You can do it!

Ya I figured I could figure it out... #$%*, I was able to replace the handle bars on on bike, re route the throttle cables and on my other 550 I replaced the throttle and clutch cables... Carbs will be after the tanks are redone.... I will actually be sending off my 550F tank to the member on here that does knee dents... Of course that is after I clean the tank out..

Tews19 · « **Reply #60 on:** August 13, 2011, 09:15:21 PM »

Sigh, today after reading many threads on here I decided to check my bike exhaust out.. Do not ask me why.. I htink it was because someones thread stated their cylinders where running at different temperatures... Now when I checked mine, the number 4 exhaust seemed much louder then 3... I touched the number 3 cylinder header and it was cold.. 1,2,4 where scolding hot.. Does this mean it is not firing? I took off the spark plug. Pulled the cap connector off the plug itself checked it out and it is clean and new looking.. Put it back together and tried the bike again.. Ran for a minute and the exhaust was warmer on 3 but not scolding hot... What does this mean?

jneuf · « **Reply #61 on:** August 13, 2011, 10:12:55 PM »

If the cylinder is cold, it means it's not firing.

When you pulled the plug on #3 did you check to see if you were getting spark?

cb550inct · « **Reply #62 on:** August 15, 2011, 07:10:24 AM »

Just to be safe because its pretty cheap, Replace all the plugs. NGK D7EA. The outside cylinders are easy, the tow inside will make you drop a couple of f-bombs, but once you do that you can rule out plugs.

Only other things i could think of clogged jet, and did you think of loosening that header and checking the gasket.

bjatwood · « **Reply #63 on:** August 15, 2011, 07:57:21 AM »

I have very good luck with the #2 & #3 plugs by accessing them from opposite side of the bike. The plugs angle towards the opposite side of the bike and I just think it's easier to remove and install this way. I also use the spark plug wrench that is in the Stock tool bag as the socket sidewall is very thin, and helps to get it in the tight area the plugs are in.

Tews19 · « **Reply #64 on:** August 15, 2011, 08:14:18 AM »

Quote from: jneuf on August 13, 2011, 10:12:55 PM

If the cylinder is cold, it means it's not firing.

When you pulled the plug on #3 did you check to see if you were getting spark?

Cylinder 3 is getting spark... saw it when i took it off and turned her over....

Tews19 · « **Reply #65 on:** August 15, 2011, 08:17:55 AM »

Quote from: bjatwood on August 15, 2011, 07:57:21 AM

I have very good luck with the #2 & #3 plugs by accessing them from opposite side of the bike. The plugs angle towards the opposite side of the bike and I just think it's easier to remove and install this way. I also use the spark plug wrench that is in the Stock tool bag as the socket sidewall is very thin, and helps to get it in the tight area the plugs are in.

Bump
I replaced the spark plugs the first day I got her... I found this interesting though... Does this mean my electrical was updated at one point???

It says TEC on this.....

Also I must state I am not sure if it was getting spark prior to me checking for spark as the cap was not secure.. I put it on all the way and the cylinder is warmer.... Bike idles better.. much better at 1100 now with some putzing with the idle screw.....

Tews19 · « **Reply #66 on:** August 15, 2011, 02:10:18 PM »

Heffe · « **Reply #67 on:** August 15, 2011, 06:08:27 PM »

I just had the exact same thing with mine...#3 was not firing. $8 for new plugs and still nothing, so I took off the carbs and the slow jet seemed to be completely plugged in #3. I cleaned it with carb spray, soaked the parts I could and tried to put everything back but the rubber seals were shot. So $60 on a gasket set and just put everything back in and #3 was getting hot!!!

. Like these guys all say nothing in there is too hard!!! I have a question though ( sorry to be stealing your thread) If I choose to go to pod filters ( that air box configuration is a bear to get back on) Do I need to rejet and if so which ones do I change?

Nortstudio · « **Reply #68 on:** August 15, 2011, 06:15:17 PM »

Tewes

If the one is not getting hot, most likely slow jet if your ignition to the plug checks out.

Heffe,

Do a search for pods and you will have opened a healthy sized can of worms. You definitely have to rejet, and may not be able to get it perfect. Depends on what you can live with. But man is it easier to remove the carbs with pods!

If you stick with the stock air box, the best trick I've learned here is to just give in and remove the battery and air box, and thentime it saves is worth it.

Heffe · « **Reply #69 on:** August 15, 2011, 06:56:30 PM »

Thanks Nortstudio, I was doing a search for "pod filters" and came up with only a couple. You weren't kidding about the can of worms! BTW if i started the bike with open carbs (not connected to the air box or anything) would that make it sputter and quit once it got hot?

Tews19 · « **Reply #70 on:** August 15, 2011, 07:04:49 PM »

Quote from: Nortstudio on August 15, 2011, 06:15:17 PM

Tewes

If the one is not getting hot, most likely slow jet if your ignition to the plug checks out.

Heffe,

Do a search for pods and you will have opened a healthy sized can of worms. You definitely have to rejet, and may not be able to get it perfect. Depends on what you can live with. But man is it easier to remove the carbs with pods!

If you stick with the stock air box, the best trick I've learned here is to just give in and remove the battery and air box, and thentime it saves is worth it.

Thanks bud... I am in the process of cleaning the tank and plan to take the carbs off to clean... Last night the #3 clynider became warm after riding and I think it was cold due to the connector cap not being secured.. I will give it a go tomorrow once I rinse the tank.. Is there a way to remove the slow jet with carbs on?

Heffe · « **Reply #71 on:** August 15, 2011, 07:45:33 PM »

I think it's possible to get to it removing the bowl, but I would much rather have it on my bench. So you were at the Rockerbox, did you see the trail riders jumping over those people?? AMAZING!

Tews19 · « **Reply #72 on:** August 15, 2011, 07:55:57 PM »

AHH I didnt realize you are from Milwaukee. Ya, I saw them... Once they were performing it was to hot down there.. I left shortly after... I ran into a kid with a 550 like mine fut with 4-2 exhaust.. sounded nice

Nortstudio · « **Reply #73 on:** August 15, 2011, 07:56:37 PM »

You can do it with the carbs on, but getting the bowls off the inner carbs is a #$%*. Also, you will probably need one of those angled screw drivers to unseat the slow/pilot jet.

Since I had the damn things off so many times recently, it's becoming like second nature at this point. But I do feel it can't hurt to have them all the way off to see if by other parts are dirty. Just more thorough.

If all the rest are firing well though, give it a try and see if that does it. You can always tear them off after - if it doesn't work.

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Author Topic: Carbs rebuilt, now won't stay idling (Read 6874 times)