Topic: Steering Issue - K1

[Prospect]

I've been riding my K1 around town a bit after working on it all summer.  Fixed the clutch, charging problem, carbs, back wheel and installed Hondaman transistorized ignition. 

One thing left to do is addressing the steering issue.  The bike has non stock handlebars possibly from a cb450.  Problem is that when riding straight you have to turn the handlebars slightly right to keep going straight.  You feel it in your triceps pretty quickly as your right arm is bent more than the left and absorbing all the pressure.  I can't see any damage in the forks or the triple tree.  I also can't see any damage in the handlebars.  Any ideas as to why this would be. 

[MCRider]

Couple of things. You have to naturally countersteer right to overcome the crown in most roads. Steer right lean left = go straight.

Second could be your steering head bearings. Over (not so much) time the balls get beat into the races forming a detent that you are always steering into and out of just to go down the road.

Test: Prop up the front end. Turn the bars fully left (or right) then turn them fully the other way. As you pass straight ahead, note if it feels like it wants to drop into a detent and stay there. If so your bearings are shot and its time for the tapered roller bearing upgrade.

[KingCustomCycles.com]

Loosen the fork clamps top and bottom, twist to desired position, retighten.

[Prospect]

Couple of things. You have to naturally countersteer right to overcome the crown in most roads. Steer right lean left = go straight.

Second could be your steering head bearings. Over (not so much) time the balls get beat into the races forming a detent that you are always steering into and out of just to go down the road.

This is a bit more than counter-steering for the road conditions but I'll change the head bearings.  It's a good idea as the balls are 40 years old. I've done it on my cb350f so I now know the trick to getting the spacers out. 

Loosen the fork clamps top and bottom, twist to desired position, retighten.

Can you explain a bit more.  I loosen the fork clamps at both top and bottom (and I assume remove the forks) then the triple trees are free to move independently.  Do you mean move both triple trees to center and then tighten the steering stem clamp bolt?

[KingCustomCycles.com]

The triple tree and the forks have some "free play" and by loosening the clamps, this allows you to twist them around a bit.  No need to remove the forks or even loosen the stem nuts.

[vames]

Of course it's also worth checking the rear wheel alignment too.

[MCRider]

The triple tree and the forks have some "free play" and by loosening the clamps, this allows you to twist them around a bit.  No need to remove the forks or even loosen the stem nuts.

But you do need to support the front end in some manner, or you'll be picking your baby up off the floor. 

[Prospect]

The triple tree and the forks have some "free play" and by loosening the clamps, this allows you to twist them around a bit.  No need to remove the forks or even loosen the stem nuts.

I did that and it's much better.  Thanks for the info.

Still waiting on my tapered bearing. 

[Prospect]

So the bike rides straight now but there is another problem.  Because it's been sitting for so long a lot of rust developed inside the rim and I was getting a wobble (up and down but not side to side) in the handlebars.  I thought the tire is unbalanced and old.  I replaced the tire and cleaned the rim of as much rust as I could.  I had it balanced and the mechanic said he got it very close to perfectly balanced but the same up and down wobble persists and as before.  The wobble only develops between 35 and 45 mph.  It's quite abrupt and very pronounced and uncomfortable to ride. 

Like I said I thought it was the tire but perhaps it's the steering head bearings that are completely shot. I thought a head bearing problem would develop a side to side wobble on the handlebars and not up and down? 

I just received my tapered bearing today.

[knowsnothing]

Hey Prospect, I have that same issue and have been told it could be one of a few things (i still haven't been able to figure out which 1 yet  though)

1 - Check your tire pressure.  Altering it by a few psi might get rid of the bounce. 

2 - Wheel bearings are shot and need to be changed.

3 - Something else i haven't figured out yet.   

Best of luck.

[Duke McDukiedook]

Sounds like it could also be a fork issue, you probably need to replace your fork oil anyway.

Is the rim out of round? Did he or you check for that?

[MCRider]

Have you cleaned and flushed the fork tubes? Then rejuice witha moderate to light weight fork oil.Sometimes the forks are just gummy and don't respondwell to the road, setting up harmonics like you are experiencing.

If not it probably needs it whether it fixes your problem or not. Fork oil should be changed every 2-3 years, and it gets gunky if its not.

[MCRider]

ISD beat me to it.

[seanbarney41]

What kind of shape is your chain in?  A tight spot in your chain will often transfer energy to the front end...believe it or not...even if the chain is too loose, all that energy from your chain flopping around can be felt in the front end....

[Prospect]

Interesting advice.  Thanks for the info. My bike is down for winter restoration and in several boxes right now.  I'll address all those issues mentioned.  I'll also rebuild the swingarm including new metal bushings and tapered head bearings.