Author Topic: Electrosport Reg/Rec (Read 2246 times)

Ephesmax · « **on:** August 22, 2011, 10:17:26 PM »

Hello Everyone,

I am brand new to this forum and have been looking around for the past few days. I like this board already there's lots of good stuff in the FAQ section. I was reading through and was unable to find a topic for this particular part. Ive been working on my friends 75 cb750 that he recently purchased already Cafe'd. We just put a brand new battery in the bike after i tested his ol dud. The new battery is fully charged.He road it maybe 30 miles and came back witha dying battery agian. I trouble shot the charging system with my multimeter stator and field coil were both in spec against the shop manual. I cleaned and checked the old regulator contacts with some emry cloth and feeler guages. Bike will still not hold a charge so today i ordered the new electrosport reg/rec i was curiouse if any one had any experience with this part either good or bad or could share some knowledge with me. Ive spun alot of wrenches in the past however i have not had to do one of these as of yet. Thank you guys in advance

Ephesmax · « **Reply #1 on:** August 22, 2011, 11:05:34 PM »

haha i forgot to post the link http://www.electrosport.com/street-bikes/honda/cb750k1-k8-f1-f2-sohc-71-78.html?pt=regulator-rectifiers

dave500 · « **Reply #2 on:** August 22, 2011, 11:42:34 PM »

did you check the charging rate?these dont charge much untill doing a few revs,did you check for current draw with key off?did you test the rectifier one way check?cleaned the gang plug connectors?

Ephesmax · « **Reply #3 on:** August 23, 2011, 07:50:04 AM »

Quote from: dave500 on August 22, 2011, 11:42:34 PM

did you check the charging rate?these dont charge much untill doing a few revs,did you check for current draw with key off?did you test the rectifier one way check?cleaned the gang plug connectors?

yeah i brought it up through the revs and checked the battery voltage bc i read the bike does not charge at less than 2k rpm. whats a gang plug connector? in the manual it tells you to disconect the red/white lead and positive battery terminal and measure voltage across them. but do i disconnect them and then try to start it?Is that the one way check?
add to this i also checked the harness for continuity for the charging system and checked my connecters.

dave500 · « **Reply #4 on:** August 23, 2011, 01:43:03 PM »

multi connector = gang plug.,test the rectifier for continuity both ways,,it should only go one way.

Spanner 1 · « **Reply #5 on:** August 23, 2011, 06:42:09 PM »

Dave +1.... very first test ( and very easiest test ) is to simply connect your voltmeter set on DC volts across the battery ( nothing disconnected ) and rev the bike to 2, 3, 4, 5 Krpm... does the voltage rise ?, If no, as in this case I'm betting, then the very next thing is to go to the 6-way alternator plug and look carefully for corrosion/overheating ( has yel/yel/yel/white/green ). Very common for this connector to be 'fused' together/melted..... good luck. Report back

There's more !!

Spanner 1 · « **Reply #6 on:** August 23, 2011, 06:52:23 PM »

O.K., I'm about to sign off.... so here's more stuff to check ( Dave +1 again ) the rectifier may be shot., also very commonly caused by connecting a battery charger backwards to the battery, OR connecting a car type ( say, 10A) charger to the bike.... either one can easily fry the rectifier.
The stator, field coil and regulator failing is actually very rare on a 750.... mostly dud connections and/or a bad rectifier..... now aftermarket 'solid state' reg/rects... that's another story...' battery boilers' IMO.....

Ephesmax · « **Reply #7 on:** August 23, 2011, 07:19:30 PM »

is this where icheck the regulator. the manual refferences the red amd white wire, and the battery lead?

is this the gang connector?

Ephesmax · « **Reply #8 on:** August 23, 2011, 07:21:20 PM »

also i checked the voltage at the battery with the bike running and reved it through 5k as i was doing so with no change in voltage. i checked the field coil and stator to the manual and they were in spec. In addition to this i checked the harness through to the coil and stator from that section of the harness for continuity and it was good

Spanner 1 · « **Reply #9 on:** August 23, 2011, 09:23:11 PM »

O.K.... great so far 6-way connector looks o.k. Some messed-up stuff @ the main fuse, but let's presume

that's o.k. for now...... look at the regulator, it has 3 wires , w/bk/gr. With the bike running , see what voltage is on the black wire and the white wire , with every wire connected as normal. Got voltage?
If close to battery voltage on both black and white, then time to test the rectifier ( bet you 10 cyberbucks it's bad ! ).... do a search for 'testing rectifier'.......

Ephesmax · « **Reply #10 on:** August 23, 2011, 11:01:21 PM »

so what your saying is that the white and green wires on the regulator are the low and high positive switches and the black wire is the ground wire ? so ill be measuring voltage across these and it should be minimully equal to battery voltage and if i rev the motor past 2k i should see an increase in voltage then the only piece left in the puzzle to be bad would be the rectifier?

Bodi · « **Reply #11 on:** August 24, 2011, 06:26:36 AM »

no no no no no
black wires are ignition power, +12V from the battery switched by the ignition keyswitch. not ground!!
green is ground.
regulator white wire goes to the field coil in the alternator. With engine stopped and key on, you should have battery voltage (+12) from green to black AND from green to white. that means the field coil is powered. with engine running and the field coil powered (it should be if the system voltage is below 13V or so) you should get AC voltage if you measure between any 2 of the 3 yellow wires from the alternator stator coil. This may be 30-50VAC with the rectifier disconnected, about 13VAC with the rectifier connected.

Ephesmax · « **Reply #12 on:** August 24, 2011, 01:54:02 PM »

so learned some interesting things using the tests you guys gave me.

Battery fresh off the tender from an overnight charge

This is what i get from the regulator with ignition keyed on

while running and bringing the revs up to about 5k (tach is non working so im going by my gut hear) i had like 11.89 from green and white connectors on the reg with the wired connected.

this is with ignition keyed on connected to one of the yellow stator leads and the fram ground

keep in mind i have the electrosport coming reg/rec in the mail that i ordered b4 i found this forum

Also i want to say thank you to you guys your making this much easier for me. I got no one around here that knows anything about bikes.

Spanner 1 · « **Reply #13 on:** August 24, 2011, 09:33:40 PM »

So, you have voltage to your field coil, that's good........ need to test the rectifier, do a search, or look in the Electrical FAQS..... if the rectifier is bad you could just use the rect. portion of that thing you have coming in the mail and leave the regulator as stock, that's what I would do if I had already bought it

( Admission ; I'm a 'booster' for stock point ignitions in our bikes and stock regulators too and will promote their use when I can

.

Ephesmax · « **Reply #14 on:** August 24, 2011, 11:12:18 PM »

Whats this talk about mid 70s f 150 regulators or rectifiers

Ephesmax · « **Reply #15 on:** August 25, 2011, 09:13:05 AM »

Also thinking about the parts from the fact page oregon motorcycle parts reg/rec any one have any thoughts

Spanner 1 · « **Reply #16 on:** August 25, 2011, 06:22:48 PM »

O.K. then, you don't want to know what is actually wrong with your chargining system, just replace parts until it works again... thats cool

.

Ephesmax · « **Reply #17 on:** August 26, 2011, 02:27:57 AM »

i thought that we had it narrowed down to a bad reg or rect ,spanner. I apreciate all the help but it seemed like if i was gonna replace one week link why not get them both so it wont be a problem later.

dave500 · « **Reply #18 on:** August 26, 2011, 03:20:08 AM »

if you do the rec/reg swap,,check twice your wiring,check it again,make no mistake before you hook the battery to it and twist the key.

Ephesmax · « **Reply #19 on:** August 26, 2011, 09:18:27 AM »

Quote from: dave500 on August 26, 2011, 03:20:08 AM

if you do the rec/reg swap,,check twice your wiring,check it again,make no mistake before you hook the battery to it and twist the key.

dually noted.

Ephesmax · « **Reply #20 on:** September 01, 2011, 01:59:32 PM »

Ok so dig this like SPANNER said, i throw in my new OR bike parts reg and rec. Which I might add are awesome but something is still not right (quote i told you so from spanner).
So Im looking through the wiring once again and comparing it to the diagram.

The PO or somebody who was messing with this thing before it came into my hands had the green wire from the field coil running to the nuetral switch the blue/red. With the white connected correctly. Which explains my lack there of voltage . Also he had the green female end of the connection running to this? (btw i stripped these wires b/c they were cracked and missing insulation and will repair them tommorrow.

so once i correct all of these connections where do i run this extra (what i think is a) ground wire? BTW this green lead runs to that insulated large nut directly in the background. Can i just run it to a solid frame ground? Please someone help!

MCRider · « **Reply #21 on:** September 01, 2011, 02:08:15 PM »

That "insulated nut" is your oil pressure sensor/switch that turns your oil pressure light on and off. It has one wire that has a male end to it that plugs into the harness. White i think. It is grounded through the engine. So why that green wire is anywhere near it is a mystery.

Has that original wire been replaced by that green wire? Or is there 2 wires coming out of the switch. Maybe the original male lead was lost and replaced with a makeshift lead that ends in green? If so that green lead plugs into the harness where the white one should have.

Spanner 1 · « **Reply #22 on:** September 01, 2011, 06:43:22 PM »

Yep, with that green wire not connected to the field coil ( white and green = field coil ) then the field coil is 'off' = no charge, zilsch !
The blue/red in the first pic needs to go to the 'large insulated nut ' ( the oil pressure sensor )..... replace the green wire to the field coil like it's supposed to be and see what happens... good luck

Oh, and if that's the fix then keep your stock reg./rect. as there was nothing wrong with them and keep that solid state one for a spare in case of failure ( bet you'll never need it

) unless you put the battery in the bike backwards, use any charger greater than 2 amps with the rectifier still connected or 'jump' from another battery with + and - reversed !!

Ephesmax · « **Reply #23 on:** September 02, 2011, 12:57:49 PM »

Today i resoldered the bullet connecters on those frayed wires packed everything with dielectric grease and heat shrunk everything together clean. Then i pulled the the battery off a fresh over night charge from the tender. The Battery was putting out 12.4 V. Hooked my meter leads up to the terminals on the battery. Half Choke, Fuel On, Ingition, Kick and she fired right up. Voltage was looking good the rpm's as i reved the motor i saw the correct rise in voltage. As an added bonus the oil light works correctly now. I am happy as a pig in #$%*. Just wanted to say thank you to all you guys for your considerable help. Especially Spanner

Spanner 1 · « **Reply #24 on:** September 02, 2011, 04:14:36 PM »

Dee - lighted it's fix'd

... well done.

News:

Author Topic: Electrosport Reg/Rec (Read 2246 times)