Author Topic: One year and a half later... Update: Aluminum oil tank (Read 7086 times)

cben750f0 · « **Reply #25 on:** May 15, 2006, 05:12:29 am »

Mate you are a ledgend, its the only way knoledge can get around... cheers for that, will eagerly await the 'how to'...peace

maksuttt · « **Reply #26 on:** June 22, 2006, 06:11:37 am »

Tried to figure out by my self: checked FAQ, forums - great help, but still have questions.
The history:
Engine waiting for rebuild (it was 24000 miles on the clock then I bought it. It was opened before - i found red sealant on cases and on oil pump net:( Previous owner didn't know what happened). Compression test was good. Leek test showed valves leak in cylinder #2. Gonna rebuild it after this season. Just want some ride...
Rebuild carbs with Keister kits and pods. Were too lean. Went back to stock (air filter brand new). Had to leave 110 main jets (stock ones drilled out). Needle in centre position. Air screws 1.5 turns. Valves, time chain adjusted. Dyna ignition dynamical adjusted. Standart spark plugs (new)with resistors(#8), wires without resistors. Good color (light Brown) in all throttle positions.

Problems: after 30 minutes of city riding idle drops down, engine died several times on interseptions. Had to adjust idle up to 1500... After riding on 3000-4000 for a 10 minutes one cylinder (maybe two?) dies. Wakes up after rev it up to 5000-6000 for a couple minutes.

Can it be spark plug failure (maybe due to too rich)? I have no ideas:(

TwoTired · « **Reply #27 on:** June 22, 2006, 09:02:57 am »

Quote from: maksuttt on June 22, 2006, 06:11:37 am

Problems: after 30 minutes of city riding idle drops down, engine died several times on interseptions. Had to adjust idle up to 1500... After riding on 3000-4000 for a 10 minutes one cylinder (maybe two?) dies. Wakes up after rev it up to 5000-6000 for a couple minutes.

Can it be spark plug failure (maybe due to too rich)? I have no ideas:(

Yes, it does sounds like plugs fouling.
Check carb sync.
Check for Slide needle wear and/or slide needle jet wear.

If you can arrange it when the engine loses a cylinder, hit the kill and clutch when it happens and do a roadside check of each spark plug.

Cheers,

maksuttt · « **Reply #28 on:** June 22, 2006, 10:41:29 am »

Quote from: TwoTired on June 22, 2006, 09:02:57 am

Yes, it does sounds like plugs fouling.
~~Check carb sync.~~ - checked, good
~~Check for Slide needle~~ - in good condition wear and/or slide needle jet wear. - OK, i will

If you can arrange it when the engine loses a cylinder, hit the kill and clutch when it happens and do a roadside check of each spark plug. - Gonna do it right now! Will post later

Thank you, sir!

maksuttt · « **Reply #29 on:** June 22, 2006, 02:46:17 pm »

Quote from: maksuttt on June 22, 2006, 10:41:29 am

Yes, it does sounds like plugs fouling.
~~Check carb sync.~~ - checked, good
~~Check for Slide needle~~ - in good condition ~~wear and/or slide needle jet wear.~~ OKl

If you can arrange it when the engine loses a cylinder, hit the kill and clutch when it happens and do a roadside check of each spark plug. - Gonna do it right now! Will post later

maksuttt · « **Reply #30 on:** June 23, 2006, 04:08:18 am »

Quote from: TwoTired on June 22, 2006, 09:02:57 am

If you can arrange it when the engine loses a cylinder, hit the kill and clutch when it happens and do a roadside check of each spark plug.

I went for a ride yesterday: after riding at 3000 (+500) (1/4 position) for 10-15 minutes one cylinder died. Clutch on, switch off... Checked plugs - nice color (light brown) on all 4. Tried to make it one more time - rode on 3 cylinders for couple minutes to be sure... Same result - good color. Didn't use magnification glass. Did I have to? My eyes still good...
I noticed, that problem starts after stop (turn, lights, etc). It disappears after five minute pause (plugs check).
When I ride at 4000-7000 rpm - nothing strange... I hope:)

I don't know, what to think...

maksuttt · « **Reply #31 on:** June 26, 2006, 03:53:30 am »

Want to check symptoms again. Hopefully, after work...

TwoTired · « **Reply #32 on:** June 26, 2006, 09:31:41 am »

Intermittant issues are SOBs to find.

Usually though, when a plug fouls and quits firing, it stays that way since the cylinder can't build up enough heat to burn away the fouling deposits.

So, either your fuel is shutting off in a narrow mid band RPM range (hard to imagine a mechanism that would do that and not show on plug deposits). Or, you have an electrical gremlin.

Check your power connections to your coils. Wiggle them around while checking for consistent voltage. Check again on the yellow and blue wires, at the coils and again at the ignition module connections. Verify power and ground connections for the ignition module.
Also check for intermitant grounding of the yellow and blue wires.

Perhaps you have an ignition module failing? Can you put the points back in it for awhile to see if the problem follows the ignition module?

Are you proficient with a multimeter?

Cheers,

maksuttt · « **Reply #33 on:** June 26, 2006, 10:24:27 am »

Check your power connections to your coils. Wiggle them around while checking for consistent voltage. Check again on the yellow and blue wires, at the coils and again at the ignition module connections. Verify power and ground connections for the ignition module.
Will try. Coils are from VFR 750, if it's important
Also check for intermitant grounding of the yellow and blue wires.
Perhaps you have an ignition module failing? Can you put the points back in it for awhile to see if the problem follows the ignition module?
Are you proficient with a multimeter?
Yes. I have a simple multimeter at home, but it works just fine.
Thank you for your help. Will post later.

maksuttt · « **Reply #34 on:** June 28, 2006, 06:28:29 pm »

Put points back. When started dynamicall adjustment found interesting thing. At 3000-4000 #4 and #3 missfired. At idle and after 4000 almost good (have interaptions).
So, i think the problem is in coils outputs.
I have stock coils and GL-1000 ones, want to check bypass.
Thank you for your help.
Correct me if i go in wrong direction.
Thanks again.

Andoo · « **Reply #35 on:** June 28, 2006, 06:53:41 pm »

Your bike looks slick. I would love to have a hydraulic clutch. You should do a write up on how you did it.

maksuttt · « **Reply #36 on:** June 29, 2006, 03:47:25 am »

Hey, Andoo! Check out thread http://www.sohc4.us/forums/index.php?topic=10568.0 I have an article there.

Andoo · « **Reply #37 on:** July 03, 2006, 10:36:19 am »

Thanks so much!

maksuttt · « **Reply #38 on:** February 14, 2007, 10:29:03 am »

Made yesterday LED stop/tail signals. 8 superbright LEDs for stop, 4 - for tail light. Got them for free from dissassembled LED TV panel (big one for commersials). Plastic base+epoxy to hold togever. Works nice

Better pictures in my gallery

ProTeal55 · « **Reply #39 on:** February 14, 2007, 10:50:22 am »

How bout a pic of those suckers lit up ?

maksuttt · « **Reply #40 on:** February 14, 2007, 12:03:15 pm »

Will do it tonight: need to connect everthing back.

maksuttt · « **Reply #41 on:** February 14, 2007, 04:23:42 pm »

Last one - to compare brightness of LEDS and bulb. LED is left... I know, it looks like bulb has more light

but leds are much brighter because they are focused

.

And you can click picture to open bigger one

jevfro · « **Reply #42 on:** February 14, 2007, 05:17:20 pm »

I think those taillights are worth of a write up too... What resistor values were needed and what are those leds rated for? also, what is it that you are using for connectors/bases. Do you think these would work as turns too? or is the draw so low that the old blinker won't blink and an electronic flasher would be needed. I've been contemplating this for a long time and your design is the best I've seen yet.(other than maybe the signal lights some of the big rigs use) I think these would finally end my issues w/ the old bulb sockets wiggling loose. I hate getting pulled over in every vehicle I own because the signals are intermittent.

I plan on making my own with a few alterations to your design, prehaps a few more bulbs(some white or amber) maybe w/ an outer ring pointing outward.. I'm going to make enough for my van, truck, bike and then who knows. This may require a large led order(1-2000 various bulbs), any leads on led sources?

thanks in advance!

maksuttt · « **Reply #43 on:** February 14, 2007, 05:46:49 pm »

I used different resistors in 150 to 200 Ohm range (i used resistor for each diode, can be made different way), I suggest to use 1-1.5 Watt resistors. I didn't know specifications for those LEDs, so i just experimented. Those LEDs work fine at 0.07A up to 0.15A (tried to blow them at 0.2A... Still worked:) It means, that after 0.07 they are not became brighter...
LED turn signals will work fine with electronic blinker.
Check this link for leds. Actually, for big orders try Ebay or electronic suppliers.

PS: forgot about plastic. This is copperfoiled fiberglass plastic - used for electronics + 5 min. epoxy.

maksuttt · « **Reply #44 on:** March 23, 2007, 03:17:30 pm »

Made an aluminum oil tank (nice to have access to mashins and TIG at work). It was my first experience with welding aluminum, so joint not that good cosmetically, but at least oiltight

Time for polishing now. As soon it will be mounted i will post more pictures.
Now need to polish it and finish work with main plug + breather + deepstick. Click images for bigger pictures.

maksuttt · « **Reply #45 on:** March 28, 2007, 10:10:09 am »

Finished a tank cup combined with a breather.
Click images for bigger pictures.

hahnda · « **Reply #46 on:** March 28, 2007, 11:09:58 am »

A totally unrelated question, but how did you get that gold colored finish on the clutch cover?

maksuttt · « **Reply #47 on:** March 28, 2007, 12:08:14 pm »

This is Alodine - Chromate Conversion Coating. Prevents corrosion and is used befor painting.

hahnda · « **Reply #48 on:** March 28, 2007, 12:19:47 pm »

I like it. Did you do it your self?
Kinda looks like the stuff they used to use on old racing bikes from the 50's and 60's..

I'll be busy googling Alodine for a while.

chrisf · « **Reply #49 on:** March 28, 2007, 12:28:31 pm »

You can get it from aircraft spruce. Alodine is what is used on aluminum before priming. It's basically a coating of microscopic hooks (literally) that allow the primer to adhere. Aluminum is usually soaked in an alodine mixture and out it pops gold.

--Chris

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Author Topic: One year and a half later... Update: Aluminum oil tank (Read 7086 times)

Andoo

Andoo

chrisf